My new MPIII simply stops after one minute!

[Dinoziv]

Hello to all,

Two days a go I have installed mp3 on my bike.
My happiness was short because it stopped after less than minute.
After that it started again but just for few seconds and after that it was dead.
When I wait for a while it would do the same.
Today I tried with tempomat and it was the same, it run for around one minute and stop.
Seams like some problem with controler!
Like when there is some overheating and it stopes automatically, but there is no heating' here!

Any idea?

Grate thanks
DIno

[Bikemad]

Hi Dino andto the forum.

I suggest you start by re-checking all of the connections, especially the battery power connector.

When the motor cuts out are the LED lights on the throttle still lit up? 
If so, try unplugging both of the brake switches and see if the fault still exists.

If unplugging the brake switches cures the fault, try plugging them in one at a time to see if you can locate which switch is causing the fault.

If the LED lights on the throttle are still lit up but unplugging the brake switches does not cure the problem and it still cuts out with cruise control (tempomat) selected then I think it could be either a poor hall sensor connection where the wires plug into the controller or a controller fault.

You may need to contact your supplier to request permission to remove the controller to check the internal connector to avoid any warranty problems.

Check out this post for more details on the hall sensor connector.

Alan
 

[Dinoziv]

Hi Alan,

Thanks for a quick reply!

I have tried with both levers but again same problem.
When it stops the light's on throttle are still on.

It interesting that after I turn it of and leave for a while it start normaly again but it stops again too.

How to check hull sensors?

Regards

[Bikemad]

Checking the hall sensors requires removal of the controller and the use of a voltmeter to check the voltage signals from each of the hall sensor output wires.

Testing information can be found in the previous link, but as you have to test the voltage with the connector plugged in to the controller and the battery power turned on, be very careful not to touch any of the circuit board against the metal axle to avoid creating any short circuits.

If you can wedge the meter's Black probe into the battery's negative (-) power outlet connection it will leave more room to access the rear of the hall sensor connector for testing the signal voltages with the Red probe.

Here is a YouTube video showing how to test the hall sensors on a hubmotor equipped with an external controller.

Unfortunately, as yours is an intermittent fault, problems with the hall sensors might only be noticeable just after the fault has occured.

Alan
 

[Dinoziv]

Starting to get nervous!

Had some communication with GM dealer where I bought it, but last three day's no answer.
Thing's like that make me crazy.
I would like to check hall sensors and it look's like it is not complicated but still have to wait for the permission from supplier.

[Dinoziv]

Hello Alan,

Today I opene'd throttle switch and I measure'd black and white cable which are going in to hall sensor it is 5v. When I change the magnet position it is giving constant 5v reading.
Is it suposed to be 0 and when I change the position of magnet to be change'd?

Regards

[Bikemad]

Hi Dino, I cant remember for sure what colour wires are used inside the MPIII throttle but there are three wires connected directly to the hall sensor which I'm pretty sure were coloured:

• White: +5V power supply
• Black: 0V ground connection
• Green: throttle signal output (should vary between ~0.8V and ~4.5V when the throttle is operated)

On the earlier Magic Pies the colours were:

• Red: +5V power supply
• Black: 0V ground connection
• Green or White: throttle signal output (should vary between ~0.8V and ~4.5V when the throttle is operated)

Here are the pin connections on the hall sensor:


If you check the voltage on the Output Signal pin it should vary as the magnet is moved (or remain at a steady ~2.5V if the magnet has been removed completely).

Alan
 

[Dinoziv]

Thank's Alan,

It looks like it is ok, on the green one with magnet it moves from 0 to 5V.
Now bike doesn't work at all. When I turn the key motor is blocked and does not react on throttle.

Could I some how check separately motor and controler?

Regards and thank's for help!

[Bikemad]

When I turn the key motor is blocked and does not react on throttle.

If the motor is difficult to turn when the power is turned on, but turns easily when the power is off, it sounds like a fault on the braking circuit (perhaps one of the brake switches is shorted internally or the signal wire inside the harness is shorted to ground somewhere).

Unplug the 8 pin connector from the motor harness and see if the wheel is still difficult to turn when the power is turned on.
If the motor now turns easily, you might want to try a simple test to see if it runs.

If the motor runs when you try the simple test in the above link, the problem is either the main harness or the brake switches. If the wheel is still stiff to turn with both of the brake switches unplugged, but turns easily when the 8 pin connector is disconnected, it will be a faulty main wiring harness.

Could I some how check separately motor and controler?

Checking the motor is probably easier to do with the controller connected, as the most likely component to fail on the motor itself is a hall sensor, which can only be checked while it is being supplied with a 5V feed from the powered up controller.

The motor's phase windings can be checked for continuity if necessary by disconnecting the three phase wires from the controller and then shorting any two of the three phase wires together and then trying to turn the motor. If the phase wires are intact, you will find that a large amount of force is required to turn the wheel. This force should be the same for each combination of phase wires shorted together:
Green to Yellow
Green to Blue
Blue to Yellow

If the motor is stiff and "lumpy" to turn with the controller still connected to the motor (but unplugged from the battery) it is most likely to be a failed controller. In which case, disconnecting the phase wires from the controller (ensuring the ends of the phase wires are not touching each other) should instantly allow the wheel to turn freely again, clearly indicating that the controller is faulty.

Alan
 

[Rodmiami]

  Dinoziv , I would like to ask you what type of battery you are using . I know that others may ask why . But in the past I have had 2 GM batteries fail on me with the same symptoms . The throttle lights work but the battery does not have enough amperage . I have a new controller for my MPII that I bought thinking that that was the problem when it was the battery BMS that was going bad . My new LiPo4 works like a gem and it is the only battery that GM sells now . Also no mention of what voltage your kit is , what battery are you using and what is the controller configured to run on .Rod

[Bikemad]

Also no mention of what voltage your kit is , what battery are you using and what is the controller configured to run on

That's a very good point, Rod.
If the controller was configured for a 48V battery, but was actually being powered by a 36V battery, it would explain why the motor cuts out so soon, because the voltage of the 36V pack would very quickly drop below the Low Voltage Cutoff setting for a 48V pack.

Unfortunately, if Dino doesn't have the correct USB programming lead to check the configuration settings programmed into the controller it could be very difficult to confirm whether or not the battery voltage setting is causing the problem.

Alan
 

[Rodmiami]

 Just my thoughts before he starts taking things apart . I saw in another post that someone had a motor preprogramed by the factory at 48v .Could be a thought . Rod

[Dinoziv]

First I want to thank you for all posts, and help you are giving me!

My battery is standard Lipo4 48v10ah from gm.

Today I have turn the key on and there is no respond on the throttle.
If I move bike with throttle on in one moment bike starts.
After all reading and with my small knowledge it looks like it is bad hall s.

Still no respond from the dealer and  I still don't want to name them as I hope they  will help me.

Opening the controller and the motor would get me out of warranty, but if I don't receive any respond I would have to.

Regards to all!

[Rodmiami]

 Dinozi ,Now we know what type of battery you have . What is the voltage that you test coming from the battery ? Does the throttle say 48V on it . I am trying to keep you from attempting to replace the Halls , which is a pain in the neck . You should attempt to get the dealer to send you another controller first because that is the easiest thing to replace , especially on the MPIII . You should not have to start digging into the wheel on a new motor . My first Golden Motors motor , a MPII , had a defective controller right out of the box . The lights worked but the bike would not move . After many attempts to contact GM China , Alan and Gary from GM Canada got involved and I was sent a new controller from China . Your dealer seems to not care and if they are that bad you need to put their name out there so others don't have the same experience . If the dealer wants to keep a good image he will help you correct the problem , if not he needs to be called out as a poor representative of the company . Please do not start taking the hall sensors out of a new motor . If the motor is defective it should be covered under warranty . Rod

[Dinoziv]

Hey Rod,

Thanks for replay!

Just today, this morning I have sent I hard word letter to them and I got a good respond that thay will send me new controler tomorow.
Hope to get it in next 10 day's as it is coming from Europe.
Just stay's to hope that it will be solution and I will finally start riding my bike!

Regards