Magic pie 5 Display showing error code 9

[Adamsavage79]

I have a error code 9 on my display. I'm not sure what is causing it, and I thought splicing in the new plug would get rid of it, but it has not. I was riding the bike and it flashed for a split second, and then a few minutes later it gave me error code 9. I've tried disconnecting the main 10 pin wire harness, so that only the display is plugged in and the code is still present. I've also tried disconnecting the throttle with the same result. The bike functions just fine with the error code, or even the display disconnected.

The only other issue I had, was that it wasn't calculating the distance traveled accurately. It seemed to be off by a couple km. I even tried hooking up my back up 10 pin wire harness and no change. Disconnecting the throttle, still displays the same error code. I don't think the controller is faulty as my cruise control still works as it's supposed to, and when I reach 10 km/h without the battery connected, the display does turn on. Perhaps it's the display itself ? The bent pin in the end caused a fault in the display ?

I'm not overly concerned about it, as the bike functions just fine without the display. I just don't know how fast I'm going, or how much power I'm using. For simply going to work and back, this isn't important at all for me. Nothing more than a feature. It is something I need for going longer distance. I could probably get away with a regular speedometer as well.

Suggestions ? 

[Bikemad]

I suspect that the controller and/or the display unit could have been damaged if the bent pin touched against another pin in the plug, especially if it was the Battery + (pin 5) bent over and touching against the +5V (pin 4). 

If you can still program the controller using the USB programming lead (or Bluetooth dongle), it is probably just the display unit that has been damaged.
However, if you cannot program the controller using the USB programming cable (or Bluetooth dongle), then I suspect that the controller will have been damaged, but until a replacement controller is fitted it is difficult to say whether the Display unit may have also been damaged. 

The inaccuracy of the distance measurement may have been due to an incorrectly set wheel size, but there is also an adjusting factor that allows any of the standard wheel sizes to either be increased or reduced by up to 30% in 1% increments to compensate for any discrepancy if the distance reading is not as it should be with the correct wheel size selected.

Check out this thread for further details on the wheel size settings.

Alan
 

[Bikemad]

As the controller doesn't connect to the programming software (assuming it did previously) it does look like the controller now has a communication problem. 

If you can cope without the display, and you don't need to alter any of the controller's parameters, it hopefully won't be a problem for you to continue using the controller.



Alan
 

[Adamsavage79]

I can't seem to get the controller to talk to my computer. I have the drivers installed, and when I try to connect to Com port 1 or even 7 I get a timeout error. Windows 10 detects the controller being plugged into the computer, but beyond that. I get nothing. I even tried a direct connect, without a USB Extension and no deal. I've tried changing the USB port, and the sofware knows that I've done this and will display a new port, but still gives me a timeout error.

[Adamsavage79]

As the controller doesn't connect to the programming software (assuming it did previously) it does look like the controller now has a communication problem. 

If you can cope without the display, and you don't need to alter any of the controller's parameters, it hopefully won't be a problem for you to continue using the controller.



Alan

I can for now, but at some point I will need a proper working controller. The controller not working right, could explain the odd vibration I feel sometimes. It's just going to be a pain to replace it. Gotta remove the disc brake just to get at controller screws. Then I have to splice in my battery cable with the anderson connections on it. Then I believe it's just a matter of unplugging the connecters and plugging them back in. This will take a good hour to do I figure.

Come to think of it, I did have some issues with the bike back in the fall of last year. The motor kept trying to move despite no input from the throttle. Luckily it wasn't trying to go full power. It was more of a sporadic movement.

I'm never taking my E-Bike back to that shop. It's not very complicated to make sure the pins are lined up properly. Not sure how he managed to bend the pin so badly, that it ended up being pushed back to the bottom of the plug.

Here is a picture of the broken plug, that has been now replaced.

EDIT: I'm going to try one more time to connect the controller to a Computer. I'm going to ask my Roommate if I can try it on his Laptop, to rule out my PC simply not cooperating with me for whatever reason. It does seem like the controller has a communication issue though, as I get the hardware connect sound and the software recognizes something is plugged into the USB port, but can't talk to it.

[Adamsavage79]

I tried to connect it to my Roommate's Laptop and I ran into the same problem. I can't get the software to talk to the controller. This does seem to be a controller communication problem, so I've went ahead and ordered a new one.

[Adamsavage79]

UPDATE:

After procrastinating for the longest time, I finally got around to working on the bike. I got the first two screws off of the cover, then all but one needed a screw extractor. The last one required bringing wheel to machinist shop, and they used a left handed drill to remove it. I switched out the controller just now, hooked the wheel up to the rest of the bike to test the display.. And what do you do know ? No error code! Now it's just a matter of cleaning up around it, putting grease down, then putting everything back together. I will keep the old controller likely just for the wire harness. I can always spice it in if needed.