3kw Non-hub Moped Conversion help

[Knightgreider]

OK well, I ordered brakes and the 2 button switch and they came today. Only to find out they are not the same plug. (see picture attached). Anyone know what type of plug adapter or plug I can buy to get the switches to connect to the controller's pre-existing plugs? I didn't apply a jumper because I was just going to wait till the 2 button switch and the brakes came. Ugh...

I also did the testing again on the different phase wires on the controller. It looks like I was getting more like 2v to the negative wire. I am assuming this is a good sign!?

As far as the 12v circuit, does anyone have any other suggestions for powering or adding other older ICE components from the controller? Or would I have to buy a 12v battery?

Anyway, thanks for all your hard work helping me everyone. I think I'm close! I hope!

[Bikemad]

As far as the 12v circuit, does anyone have any other suggestions for powering or adding other older ICE components from the controller? Or would I have to buy a 12v battery?

You could power it from your 72V battery through a suitable DC/DC converter. 
You should be able to use this 36-72V to 12V DC/DC converter to power indicators, horn and headlight etc. as long as the total consumption is less than 120W:



The battery wire on the converter should be fed from the output side of the contactor so that it is automatically disconnected when the power to the controller is turned off.

I don't know where you will find matching connectors to suit your controller, you may have to use a suitable matching pair of male and female connectors to replace the existing ones on both the throttle and the controller if you cannot find the correct type that fits.

Alan
 

[Knightgreider]

Thanks Alan, I was hoping to not have to strip the controller wires but I can. I bought some connectors and will try again on Monday.

[Motolittle]

Any luck getting it running sir? I have been away working...

[Motolittle]

I can send you my parameters from the controller if you desire.

After finally figuring out my Hall configurations I can reverse or put the motor back to standard rotation with no issues and no hesitation. Before I had it figured out my symptoms were all plugged in and wired to the diagram and when I gave it throttle it would move for a second than nothing. If I spun the motor by hand it would spin when throttle was applied but would not spin on its own and would definitely not pull a load. Thanks to Alan and a whole lot of testing I just swapped Hall configurations till it worked in the direction I needed! Hope this helps!! I will try to upload my parameters:

[Knightgreider]

Hi Motolittle! Yeah, I tried all of your configurations. All of them didn't work. I went through each one on Friday one by one. Still, the controller blinks 5 times as soon as I plug in the battery. Which says in the manual "HALL input is abnormal"  https://www.goldenmotor.com/controllers/GoldenMotor%20FOC%20Motor%20Controller%20Guide.pdf

Today I wired up the Brakes and plugged them in. And I figured out that when I plug the battery in I instantly get the light blinking. Then when I hit the button the throttle to turn it on, the contactor connects and then I turn the throttle, nothing happens as before. It's like I didn't change anything.

Today I also made an e-lock jumper. When I made it, I plugged it in and then plugged the batteries and instantly the contactor came on. SO, I think that there is something wrong with the controller or the hall sensor like what was said before. I attached all the pictures with my setup.

I am pretty frustrated. I really hope I didn't blow the controller when I plugged it in. What should I test on the controller? Or can someone look at the pictures and give me some advice on what to test? I guess I don't understand where the hall sensor is located, because I am re-reading that it is most likely damaged. Is it in the motor casing or the controller? If I blew one or more of them would I just have to replace the whole motor or could I buy a replacement part? I changed all my software is back to factory settings.

Thank you for any help you can provide! Everyone has been super helpful so far!

[Motolittle]

The Hall sensors are 3 tiny sensors inside the motor. I don't move the sensors as they are in the motor, I simply swap the Hall sensor wires and/ or the phase wires.  Also I thought I blew my Hall sensors too because it wouldn't work properly. Also I welded on the frame
With the motor phase wires touching and I thought I fried them but thankfully I didn't....

I cannot upload my pictures because it says they are too large...  make sure under settings number of pole pairs is 4. Otherwise leave it stock except turning down the amps it pulls because mine overdrew amps on stock settings.

I think your issue is a Hall sensor issue and a programming or wiring issue...

An idea: remove everything except the throttle and motor controller and motor and battery. I don't use a contractor just the e lock on the throttle. I think if you refine your system you can troubleshoot it easier.

[Motolittle]

https://youtu.be/Y4O9YQG08vE

Here is a link on how to check Hall sensors. I know not your motor but same principle. Whole system plugged in and voltage on.

[Knightgreider]

Hey Motolittle. I can see what you are saying. I don’t know how I would hook up the motor without the contactor.  I do think the cables could be hooked up wrong though. I only had a wiring picture to go by.

I really want to see your setup. If you make you images below 2000kb you can upload them. You should be able to do it in ms paint or some other program by just shrinking the number of pixels. I teach digital media.

[Tommycat]

Another motor hall sensor testing resource...

http://www.ebikes.ca/documents/HallSensorTestingFinal.pdf

I keep thinking your not going to have 5vdc supply...

[Motolittle]

Here is a diagram on how to hook it up with or without the contactor. Some people have reported faulty contactor as well... I don't think this is your problem but it simplifies the system...

My controller blink and would give no output on several occasions when I put a parameter in the programming that it didn't like even when it let me upload it... I believe you said you restored factory settings though... 

Do you have a bms on your batteries that is limiting output ? This would starve the motor controller and shut it down too...

EDIT: Direct link to picture added

[Knightgreider]

I am getting ready for my wedding and plan on working on this next week.

I already took out the contactor and found no difference. I will try to troubleshoot it with software next week. No BMS on my batteries, but I did balance them with this calculator https://secondlifestorage.com/repackr.php before I put them together. I think I am close, it's so frustrating!

[Motolittle]

Hey friend any luck getting it going?

[Knightgreider]

I haven't had a chance to work on it. Hoping to do it tonight. I will continue to update. I did remove the contactor before and am still having the same problem. I am going to try to play with the settings in the software tonight.

Thanks! I think I am close!

[Knightgreider]

Ok, some updates today. Sort of progress?

As I said I got rid of the contactor, and hooked everything back up. Then I played with the software and changed the hall angle to 60iã in the software and downloaded it into the controller and no LED blinks on the controller!!! Then I tried to turn the throttle, nothing. Then I held the brake in and then got 15 LED blinks? I can't find anything in the controller manual for 15 blinks. Does anyone know where to look for this? I played with the negative hall angle a lot. The only one that gave me no blinks was the 60iã instead of the default 120iã.

I might be doing something wrong because I had solder the brake wires together because the plug was wrong. So I might have soldered them the wrong way. I went from brake blue wire to the red wire on the plug, which goes into the controller and the red on the brake wires to black wire on the connectors I got. Do you think it would be wired incorrectly?

Just to be clear, the throttle button does enable the system to turn on right?