Need settings and software for Magic Pie4, please

[Tommycat]

Hope this helps...

[Maya]

Hi there:

well I tried all that you tell me but nothing change, do you think the controller is out of order? or it is the pedelec sensor, maybe?
can it repair the controller?
just in case I put some pictures.

thanks a lot.

Maya

[Tommycat]

After seeing the condition of your wiring harness before repairs. I recommend you re-double your efforts to verify continuity of all the harness wires. And to make sure there is no shorting between them, using the previous harness wiring pin-out diagram and controller picture for reference. If all checks out perfectly and you have disconnected the pedelec sensor and upper harness as requested previously. I don't think that controller repair of the communication feature would be possible. And considering the condition of the wiring harness, replacement of the controller would be an attractive option as a new lower harness comes with it.


Best regards,
T.C.

[Maya]

Hi There:

here a picture, maybe could you tell me which wire with which wire I have to sold ? please

Because the sensor pedal cable have only 3 smalls wires and I have a doubt about it .

thanks a lot .

Maya

[Bikemad]

Hi Maya,

The following diagram shows what the unterminated wires are for;



You need to connect your pedelec sensor to the Red, Black and Yellow wires on the motor harness:

The Red from your pedelec sensor goes to the Red "+5V" wire.
The Black from your pedelec sensor goes to the Black "Ground (Battery -)" wire.
The Green wire from your pedelec sensor goes to the Yellow "Pedelec Signal" wire.

The unused Blue wire on the motor harness reverses the direction of the motor when it is connected to the Black ground wire.
Reverse is typically not used on a pushbike, but could be used on a trike, but you would need to wire in a separate switch to to allow Reverse to be activated easily when needed.

Make sure that the unused Red, Black, Yellow and Blue wires for the horn and lights are carefully insulated from each other to avoid any short circuits which could easily destroy your wiring harness (and possibly your controller too). 

Alan
 

[Maya]

Hi Bikemad:

Thank you very much for your help, it doesn't working well yet, always same problem but I realize that multi-control Buttons ( with green and red buttons) is broken, it's that important? ( see the picture)

I command a new controller, so  I'am affraid that the multi-control buttons was the real problem?  what do you think about it?

Have a nice day.

Maya

[Bikemad]

If it is just the button assembly that has physically broken, the motor should work fine if the broken button is unplugged.

However, if the main wiring harness (and/or the controller harness) has been damaged by the wires in the horn/cruise switch unit being shorted together, then you may have to replace the wiring harness (and/or the controller)

There are four wires inside the horn/cruise button switch, one of which is Battery live (B+) and another is Battery Ground (B-). If these two wires become damaged and the inner cores are able to touch against each other, this would result in a direct short circuit across the battery leads causing the thin wires in the harness to become hot enough to melt through their insulation, and probably through the insulation of adjacent wires within the harness.

If other wires in the harness have been melted through, this could cause further short circuits across many of the wires within the harness, and if the main control harness has been internally damaged, it could also damage a new controller if the damaged harness is not replaced before the new controller is fitted and the battery connected. 

Alan

[Maya]

Hi Alan:

Well I finally change the controller but IT DOESN'T WORK .....
I think I installed the new controller well ( wires and so) but when I put the battery on the screen led blinks ( I join a small video and pictures )
when I tried to push the speed throttle it goes back strongly with a motor noise ( like a car when is on) AND IN THE CONTROLLER there is a small red light blinking ( video 2 )

thank you so much  for your help.

Maya


PS: just in case when I connect the controller to the PC , the program only open the controller settings and parameters not the others settings and I can do changes but I can't save it.

[Tommycat]

Alan will need to know the number of times the LED blinks. As the number of blinks determines the error or fault code.

[Maya]

Hi Tommycat:

Thanks for your reply, well it's blinks 15 times 

Have a nice week end.

Maya

[Bikemad]

Hi Maya,

The new controller will need to be programmed to the correct voltage for your 24V battery or it will not run because your battery voltage will be too low if it is set for a 36V or 48V battery (48V is the default setting).

Be very careful testing it without he axle being held, if it does suddenly start running, you will end up wrapping the controller around the spinning axle and it could rip the wires out causing further problems. 

I'm not sure what the 15 blinks indicate, as my error code list only goes up to 14 blinks. 

Perhaps GM have added more features and or additional fault codes.

when I tried to push the speed throttle it goes back strongly with a motor noise ( like a car when is on)

I'm not sure what you mean by this, perhaps another video might show the problem.

PS: just in case when I connect the controller to the PC , the program only open the controller settings and parameters not the others settings and I can do changes but I can't save it.

If your reverse switch is fitted to the new controller, make sure it is turned off while attempting to save the parameter to the controller.

Also check that you are clicking on the correct icon to "Download" the settings to the controller. 

Alan
 

[Maya]

Hi Bikemad:

The controller is set in 24V .

Difficult to make 2 mo videos 

thanks a lot

Maya

[Bikemad]

If your controller is definitely set to 24V then it might be that the phase wires or hall sensor wires are configured differently on the new controller to what they were on the old one.

It might be worth checking this thread in case your problem is the same.

How did you manage to change the controller's voltage from the default 48V setting to 24V if you "can't save it"? 

Alan
 

[Maya]

Hi Bikemad:

The voltage setting was made by the techniciens of Goldenmotors I warned them that my battery was 24v , before I buyed.  I thinked it would be the only important thing)
When I can get the acces to the PI-800.exe program, I have only 2 settings for the controller, I think are "function settings and parameters settings" and there I can see the battery voltage is 24v  ( the others setting are not) .
If you don't mind , could you put a picture showing me what you say, I 'm not so good in technical english, sorry ...actually I'm learning with my bike problem...lol before this I never dis-insert a screw 

about the phase wire I thinks all the controllers are the same position of colors, I find a picture for a Magic Pie 5  ( because my new controller upgrade my Magic Pie 4 to Magic Pie 5 )and it's the same of my Magic Pie 4.


Which one is the "hall sensor"?



Thank you so much for help Alan and Tommycat.

Have a nice sunday

Maya

[Bikemad]

The five Hall Sensor wires go to the six pin connector, but there are different types on some controllers:



If your motor is making noises (but not turning) when you apply the throttle, then I think that either the Hall Sensor Wires or the Phase wires are not configured correctly for the new controller.

If you have had to swap the connector for the Hall Sensors like I had to:



It is possible that the wire colours on your motor may be configured slightly differently to the colours on the controller.

If the Hall Sensor wires have been inadvertently mixed up (assuming the Red and Black are still correct) it is much easier to temporarily swap the push on connectors of the Phase wires around to test different sequences.
As there are only 5 other variations to test, it shouldn't be too hard (or take too long) to find the correct/working configuration.

If the way they are currently connected is wrong, there are five other possible ways to connect the phase wires to the controller.

Terminal:   (1)   (2)   (3)
Option 1     B     G     Y
Option 2     B     Y     G
Option 3     G     Y     B
Option 4     G     B     Y
Option 5     Y     G     B
Option 6     Y     B     G    (This is the current position)

Only test with 1/4 to 1/2 throttle maximum at first, as using full throttle with an incorrect phase sequence can sometimes overload the controller's MOSFETs.

The correct sequence should give a smooth running motor, if it sounds very harsh and struggles to turn the wheel, it is probably wrong.
To avoid any confusion, make sure you record each position that you try, and make a note (or take a picture) of the working combination for future reference.

If you find that the motor runs properly, but is spinning in the reverse direction with the reverse switch OFF, then you will need to swap the Green and Yellow Hall sensor wires and the Blue and Yellow Phase wires too.

Alan
 
EDIT: Picture changed to correct wrong wire colour (now Green instead of Grey)