Controler MX36C-EB-D wiring diagram 36V, thumb throttle, reg braking, pedalec

[Sangesf]

During regen the throttle does nothing.  It is only necessary to "short B to Z".   I only get one level of braking from the regen.  It takes a second to kick in, then it ramps up to a respectable level of braking.

I get NO level of braking....
 

The mini motor is an amazingly efficient little unit, with very little resistance to spinning when unpowered.   Pedaling my bike without using the electric power is very easy, almost no different than before I installed the mini motor kit.  I can see why someone might have thought that it had a freewheel mechanism in it.
When I am ridding the bike, if I look down, the wires are coming out of the left side of the front wheel.  
Are your brake switches hooked up correctly?  Does the controller cut out when you apply both brake and throttle?

I only have one of the brake switches connected, (I only need one... I don't think that would stop "regen" from happening)

Well when I'm riding my bike and I look down the wires are coming out of the RIGHT side of the wheel.
The throttle/controller DOES cut out when I apply the brakes, but no regen

Apparently when I'm using the motor in it's current configuration, I'm guessing, the motor is actually going BACKWARDS! (right side of wheel are my wires, as opposed to your left side - {wheel/motor is opposite of your setup})

Is it possible to have a wiring configuration that makes the wheel go backwards?
THAT would be the reason why MY REGEN / ALARM LOCKING is not working properly....

If I have the movement of the wheel somehow setup for movement "backwards" THAT would be the reason why I'm NOT getting regen and the "locking" of the wheel when the alarm is set would be set properly.
(at this time, when I set the alarm and the alarm goes off, it locks the wheel from reverse movement, not forward movement)


ANYONE have ANY idea WHAT IS GOING ON?

TOM?
PHILIP?

C'MON GUYS HELP ME HERE!!

[floatbike]

Golden motor's documentation is sparse.   I guess they provide this forum as a substitute. 

...when I set the alarm and the alarm goes off, it locks the wheel from reverse movement, not forward movement

This seems indicative of a freewheel.
Your mini motor might have a freewheel after all, even though mine does not.  My mini motor is in a 16” cast wheel (no spokes).  This might be a different version of the same motor, the wires coming out of the opposite side seems to indicate a difference of some kind.
My regen works regardless of which direction the wheel is spinning.  So spin your wheel backwards by hand.  Do this with and without the brake switch closed.  You will feel considerably more resistance with the brake switch closed if the regen is working.  This will prove whether you have a freewheel, or whether the controller is not doing regen.

[Helgeo]

Hi Guys,
I have a 26" front wheel with mini motor, it definately freewheels in the forward direction. If I spin it backwards there is resistance and the red led on the throttle turns on even if there is no battery connected. A friend of mine has opened his mini-motor also 26" and we can see that it has a planetary gear system. When motor runs the planetary gear holder is stationary while motor operates on sun gear. When freewheeling the gear holder rotates with the wheel while motor is stationary.
When motor is running or wheel is turned backwards we have the situation of the last option in the animation here: http://science.howstuffworks.com/gear7.htm

When freewheeling it is similar to the second option, except that the ring is now the input.

The planetary gear system is also a reduction gear with a ratio of approximately 90/21. It makes sense that the 16" version has direct drive as the same reduction for such a small wheel would give very low speed.

So my conclusion is: There is no regen with mini-motor in a 26" wheel. But in my opinion the benefits of freewheeling are much greater than the case would be with regen. Freewheeling allow for much higher average speeds, you can pedal quicker than the motor will drive you and you do not have to go slow down hills. If it is important to get more miles out of a charge it is better to opt for a higher capacity pack. It is possible to find 20 Ah 36V LIPO packs that weighs less than the 10Ah LiFePo4, but they come at a higher cost.

BTW last week I did a 39 km trip on a 10Ah pack with my bike, total time was about 1 hour and 30 mins. Not bad 

[floatbike]

That is an interesting thought that my mini motor is actually direct drive.  That would explain why it is so quiet.

But somehow I just don’t think that this little thing could make the torque it does without reduction.  It will easily lose traction digging out from a dead stop.   The 16” wheel does give lower effective gearing.  But the difference between a 16” and a 26” is only about 1.6:1.  That is nowhere near the90:21 (4.3:1 reduction) that you guys found when you looked inside.  If my mini motor was the same motor sans planetary set I should have a maximum assist speed of almost 3 times what you are getting with 4.3:1 reduction on a 26” wheel.  As it is the motor power drops off quickly above 15mph, and at over 20mph opening or closing the throttle has no effect.

It seems more likely to me that all the mini motors have planetary reduction gears, but only some of them have a freewheel mechanism. 
What kind of top speed do you get with your mini motor on a 26” wheel?

BTW how did that freewheel mechanism work, does  it use a ratchet like is in a standard bicycle freewheel?
What were the gears made out of when you tore into the mini motor?   Were they all nylon?  Metal sun gear?   How many miles was on the motor at the time you tore into it?  Did the gears show any signs of wear?

[Helgeo]

Floatbike,
Now I'm just guessing, but your motor could be direct drive with different windings (lower kV) or it could be that you have different gearing and a fixed planetary gear holder (most likely).

I get about 27 km/h (16.5 mph) unassisted, when pedaling the motor helps to about 32 km/h (20 mph)  using a 36V pack.

I did not get a chance to look close at the freewheel mechanism. Perhaps Perbear will chime in on that. Planet gears are nylon, rest are steel. Motor was unused so no wear. Motor looks well built.

Perhaps it is possible to lock the freewheel mechanism for those who want regen?

[Sangesf]

All of that makes sense now.

I get a top speed of 17.2 mph when wheel (24") is in the air, and about 14.3 mph while riding (bike + Me = > 300lbs) using 24v 12ah SLAs.

Rear Motor (Ananda 24v 250 watt - 20" wheel) get about 16.2 mph while riding using 24v 40ah LiFePo4's.

I get a top speed (with both motors running at the same time) of about 17.5 mph.
I can get up to 18.5 with the wind behind me all of these numbers unassisted.  If I help, then I can get it up to 19 mph before I have to add more leg power.

I can currently get about 40 miles total range (when there's no head wind at all), which is REALLY good, considering I have literally about 10 electronic devices running all the time, while I'm riding....
(Rear light, Brake Lights, Rear Directionals, Digital Volt/Amp Meter, Radio, Speakers, Audio Amp, Cigarette Lighter, Front  Head Lights and Front Directionals.)

[Perbear]

...Radio, Speakers, Audio Amp, Cigarette Lighter...

Impressive - sounds like a rather laid back bike you have there! 

[wepbep]

Maybe the best way to get Reg braking is to turn the wheel around and then reverse on the controller ?

I hope GM comes with a solution. And I still need the right wiring diagram...

[floatbike]

Maybe the best way to get Reg braking is to turn the wheel around and then reverse on the controller ?

You would have regen braking allright, but then the motor would not drive the bike because the freewheel would just spin!