The Slow Boat From China has arrived with my replacement wheel!

[Electrobent]

I just got an email from UPS telling them that GMUSA asked them to pick it up in Scottsdale.  We (So Calif) are supposed to get the last five years worth of rain in the next week so its not like I am going to get to ride right away but this is essential progress.  I guess the first thing I will do is take it to the electronics shop and measure the induction of the coils. And then, as those of you who labored through my movie know too well, I need to replace the front fork.  Maybe I need to reinforce it first? 

I hope to be writing a rave review in a few weeks.

Happy New Year to all!

--Eric

[Hardcore]

nice

[Leslie]

Great news.

I tested my inductance with motor apart, when I tested it put together with magnets in place the inductance changed around when I rotated the stator. It still read 844uh max and at least I forget maybe 150uh. 

Thats nice, the effect of the magnets creating impedance in the coils.


I hope it turns out all ok for you.

[Electrobent]

Can you leave the inductance meter connected while you turn the stator or do you have to connect-read-disconnect-turn-connect-read etc?

[Electrobent]

The wheel has arrived and passes visual inspection.
What I need right now are hip waders though.

[Leslie]

Can you leave the inductance meter connected while you turn the stator or do you have to connect-read-disconnect-turn-connect-read etc?

I did. It may be a bad idea to spin the wheel come to think of it.  I just turned the wheel slowly.  The meters can test pretty high volts but I don't think it would be wise to be connected to a fully spinning wheel.

The increment turning to get the proper reading is very small.  Ever so slightly to see if the inductance goes max.  If you were to measure all the low points you could test the magnets health state.  The more impedance, the stronger the field externally applies reactance, indicting the magnets effectiveness..

Keep us informed 

[Electrobent]

I have the new front forks in place and the new motor mounted.  This one is very true and rounder than the first one but it is off-center--there is more space on the wire side.  This is a front wheel. I have futzed around with shims of different thickness (my old 36V shims) and have it within a few mm.  Is this on purpose to allow the use of disc brakes? If so, how are they mounted?

[Leslie]

Have you got the wheel working yet?

Damn keeping me in suspense any longer.

You must be pretty keen to get out riding again.

[Electrobent]

no, I have been messing with my front forks.  Remember my "drop-outs dropped out."  They cut my new one too short and I had to ditch the ring in the threaded headset.  I gooped it up with lock-tite and said a prayer.  Now I am trying to get the cantilever brake to work with the off-center wheel.  The weather has been horrible so I have been working in cramped and underlit conditions.  Next the stem goes in and the seat goes on and then we tie up the wires and cables and synch the motor.  And then I can find some way to get air into the front tire (the hubs have been wider to improve torque and the rims have been made wider to improve strength and now there is not room to get a pump head on the stub of a schraeder valve sticking through the rim.  I need to find that adapter thingy Bikemad pointed out. 

I guess I have learned patience from this project. I have been off-the-road since mid-2009.

[Bikemad]

I have the new front forks in place and the new motor mounted.  This one is very true and rounder than the first one but it is off-center--there is more space on the wire side.  This is a front wheel. I have futzed around with shims of different thickness (my old 36V shims) and have it within a few mm.  Is this on purpose to allow the use of disc brakes? If so, how are they mounted?

Eric,
It's good to hear your wheel has finally arrived.

If the new hub is offset, it will have been done to allow a disc brake to be fitted, but unless you have the required mounting lugs on your forks, then fitting a disc brake is not really a viable option. (Unless you're prepared to fabricate and weld on a suitable mounting bracket for the calliper.)

Check this out for more information regarding the fitting of disc brakes.

If the hub is offset to allow for clearance for the disc, I would expect the rim to have been laced to the hub with a suitable offset to ensure the rim and tyre remain centred within the forks.
(Or am I just expecting too much?)

Any chance you can post a picture showing the offset hub on the new hub?
Anyway,  let's hope you will be mobile again soon.

Alan
 

[Electrobent]

Here are some pics of the wheel as I have been able to shim it so far.

I got some super thin washers so I ought to be able to adjust it a bit.

The flat on the wire side of the axle sticks out a few millimeters further than the one on the other side.  It is also the case that the wire side has a one-step boss around the axle while the other side has a two step box.  It almost looks like the missing second step is the difference in the distance between the innermost washer and the stop on the axle.

If you look at the distances between the bottom of the forks and the hub, they look about equal but if you go up to brake level, there is considerable difference.

I put a rule on each side of the rim and noted where it touches the hub and there is not much difference there--which I would think there would be if the wheel were dished.

I beginning to think that the blades of this fork are not the same length and the wheel is mounted at an angle.

Where can I get a 20" 1" threaded fork with the mounting hardware for a disc brake?

[Electrobent]

more pics

[muzza.au]

I beginning to think that the blades of this fork are not the same length and the wheel is mounted at an angle.

What are your forks made of, aluminium or steel? If they are steel you may be able to file out the right(?) side of the slot where the axel sits to cente and straigten up the wheel. By the look of it, you may not have to file off much, as only a small amount of filing will translate into a greater displacement at the tire. I think steel would still remain strong even though you file a bit off. However even unmodiified aluminium may eventually break under the load of a hub motor, not recommended for from hub motors. Either way, do you have a torque bar?

Muzza.

[Bikemad]

Where can I get a 20" 1" threaded fork with the mounting hardware for a disc brake?

Eric, that hub does not look like it has the required mountings for a disc to be attached, as there are no bolt holes and no threaded boss to screw an adapter onto.
So perhaps it's best to forget about a disc brake conversion.

The rim appears to have been laced slightly offset.  
You should be able to correct this offset with some careful use of a spoke key:
If you start at the valve and then slacken all the spokes on the right by unscrewing the nipple half a turn and then tighten all the spokes on the left side by tightening the nipple half a turn, and then see how it looks. As long as each nipple is moved the same amount, this should ensure the wheel stays true.

You may need to repeat this process to get the rim centred correctly within the forks.
Check out this link for further information regarding tensioning  the spokes and truing the wheel



If the wheels were correctly trued using a suitable wheel truing jig, then problems like this should not arise!

Alan
 

[Rafa]

my wheel had the same problem, I used the spoke key to adjust at the center of the fork. easy and fast. This problem seems to be repeated too, the wheels are centered at the center of the engine and not where it belongs.