The Slow Boat From China has arrived with my replacement wheel!

[GM Brazil]

This is  a GM motor? What motor is this?

[Bikemad]

This is  a GM motor? What motor is this?

It's an HBS48F-1000W fitted to a 20" rim.
 


Alan

[muzza.au]

If the wheels were correctly trued using a suitable wheel truing jig, then problems like this should not arise!

Alan
 

Do I detect a hint there!

muzza.au

[Electrobent]

I was hoping I could drill and tap that single step boss on the wire side for a disc brake--it seems so much more fun than trying to reset a wheel.  I have a truing stand and a dial gauge and holder so I can dial it in to .001 inch.  I just don't know where I am going to find all the Zen needed for that job!  I guess I will just strap it all together, synch the controller, and take a baby ride down the block to make sure it is all going to work--maybe then I'll be psyched to dial it in.

I hope the regen proves to brake enough!

Its stopped raining so maybe this all can happen.  I still have to figure out how to pump up the tire.

 

[Electrobent]

OK, I spent half a day moving the rim a half inch to the left.  It needed to be moved 3/4 of an inch but I ran out of spoke thread.  
I borrowed a compressor and filled a tank and then used that to fill the tire.  Hooked up the wires and again had a very hard time identifying the best phase setting.  Finally find one that seems good.  It's crunchy at first and then smooths out--but it runs just as well with the green power wire disconnected.  

Maybe it just doesn't work with my early model 48V Zhidong Regen controller (which I bought from Golden a couple of years ago)--or my controller isn't programmed right.  There was supposed to be an external programmer but it never materialized. I guess I'll take my controller apart and see if anything looks funky inside.  Anyone have any recommendations for a good controller to use with NiMH?

I just can't figure out how it could be that the color of the disconnected wire was constant on the wheel side while the problem was on the controller side.

I am stumped, humbled, and chagrined.  My apologies to everyone--especially GM.  

Here's a pic of the rim showing no threads on the right side spokes but a few millimeters of thread on the left side showing.  Its the opposite now.  The second picture is of the inside of the controller.  It's not very good but you can sort of make out the cracks in the heads of the screws holding the tabs of the FETs to the heatsink.  

[Electrobent]

so nobody knows what to say now?

Will the GM "Cruise Controller" work with this wheel?

They no longer list the 48V regen controller on their website.

[Bikemad]

Will the GM "Cruise Controller" work with this wheel?

Eric,

The cruise controller will work fine with your motor, and it has regen, plus you can wire it to use the anti-theft alarm and wheel locking function if you want to.
But as an "authorized dealer", I expect you already knew this.

Hey, I just noticed that I am now an authorized dealer.
I guess this means I can buy a new controller from myself ?

That sounds like a great idea, but I think you may have to haggle with yourself to get it at the best price.

Alan
 

[Electrobent]

Alan:

I am no longer an Authorized Dealer (but you probably know that!)

Will the Cruise Controller work if I don't connect the brake switch at first.  Will it just run with no regen?  When I had my 36V set up the switched handle GM was selling would not work in my configuration so I just made it so you worked the throttle and front brake with the same hand and could not do both at once (throttle on bar end, brake lever mounted upside down on a bar extender).  I bought a magnetic reed switch kit from a guy on Endless Sphere and want to install that for the regen to work but want to leave all that out of the loop until I get the basic stuff working.

What is the real upper limit on the voltage?  I took my two 36V packs apart to make one 48V pack and I have some cells left (but no good way to charge them unless my 36-48V charger can go higher or I get another charger or charge them in batches.

I guess the lesson I learned from this is to buy the components that will work together, together.  I wanted to put regen in my 36V system and bought the 48V controller thinking I would be able to turn down the cut-off voltage but the promised programming tool never materialized.  Perhaps that is related to why GM no longer lists the 48V Regen controller.  The picture does, however, indicate that the controller is available in 24, 36, and 48V models. 

Oh, I thought all the locking stuff was vapor-ware.  Did I not read deep enough?

--Eric

[Bikemad]

Eric,

The Cruise Controller will work without the brake switch, but as you say, without regen.

All of the cruise controllers can handle up to 60V, the only difference between the three variants is the low voltage cut-off.
 
You would need to email sales@goldenmotor.com regarding the 48V Regen controller to see if they are available or not.
(I see the 36V version is $20 more than the cruise controller).

The wheel locking does work with your motor, but not with the geared minimotors. (or the current Magic Pies)

The cruise controller should give you a better range than the regen only one, as it will enable you to coast with the throttle fully released, whereas the regen one automatically activates regen when the throttle is released, meaning you have to keep the throttle partly activated in order to prevent unwanted deceleration.

In my opinion, the cruise controller is both cheaper and better, but you must decide what suits your specific needs best. (If it is still available in a 48V version)

The cruise control is a nice feature, but to use it safely, you would need to have your brake switch installed.

Alan
 

[Electrobent]

All of the cruise controllers can handle up to 60V, the only difference between the three variants is the low voltage cut-off.
 

Thanks Alan.

Is this 60 volts nominal or 60 volts actual?

My nominally 48V (40 cell) NiMH pack is 58.6 volts fully charged.

Should I add 10 cells to my series or just leave well enough alone?

--Eric

[Bikemad]

Eric,

I'm pretty sure the capacitors are rated at 63V, but GM state 60V maximum for the controller, so I wouldn't add any more cells to your pack, just to play safe.
(Another 40 cells wired in parallel would be OK)

Alan
 

[Electrobent]

OK-I ordered the 48V cruise controller.  I wish I had just done that in November!

[TRK]

OK-I ordered the 48V cruise controller.  I wish I had just done that in November!

Me (and I can imagine a few others) too.    In my experience the cruise controller works great with that motor, especially with the green wire connected (sorry, could not resist). 

Okay, that's more then enough teasing from me.  Anyway, I'm glad to see you've finally gotten to the bottom of your problem.  Those symptoms were pretty baffling, live and learn as they say.  I hope it will be smooth sailing from here for you.

[Electrobent]

Logic suggested the wheel was at fault.

I still don't understand but if this does not work, I am going back to non-electric.

[TRK]

Logic suggested the wheel was at fault.

I still don't understand but if this does not work, I am going back to non-electric.

You are right, I was only teasing a bit, please don't take it personal.

Just hang in there, I'm sure things will work out once your cruise controller arrives.