HPM5000B wiring diagram for USA

[solardan]

I just purchased a 72vdc HPM5000B to be used on an experimental wind turbine of my own design.

I would like to know what your large wire color codes are.

They are Green, Yellow and Blue.

I also assume since I am using this motor as a power generator to charge my battery bank, I will not need the small wire connector for anything.

I need to know which wire is positive, negative and ground.  I assume Green is ground!

Please Help.

Thank you,
Dan

[Bikemad]

I just purchased a 72vdc HPM5000B to be used on an experimental wind turbine of my own design.

I would like to know what your large wire color codes are.

They are Green, Yellow and Blue.

I also assume since I am using this motor as a power generator to charge my battery bank, I will not need the small wire connector for anything.

I need to know which wire is positive, negative and ground.  I assume Green is ground!

Dan,

Wiring details for this motor can be found here: HPM5000B

The Green, Yellow and Blue thick wires are the three phase main power wires.

If you're using it as a wind generator you will require six heavy duty diodes (or a suitable rectifier unit) to rectify the AC voltage produced:



You will probably require some form of voltage regulator to prevent any overcharging of your storage batteries, but you will have to do a bit of research on that.


Alan
 

[rolf_w]

...Wiring details for this motor can be found here: HPM5000B
The Green, Yellow and Blue thick wires are the three phase main power wires...

(I assume) the motor is a permanent magnet brushless three phase in-runner motor/generator? the 3 thick wires yellow (A), blue (B) and green (C) are the phase wires to the Y-connected stator winding (star point not accessible). The 3 thin wires yellow (U), blue (V) and green (W) are the Hall sensor signals and red (+5V) and black (GND) are the power supply for the Hall sensors.

[Bikemad]

Rolf,

Check out this post for more details.

Alan
 

[Leslie]

YOu could place a low ESR cap on the output of those diodes to create good impedance to peak changes to the output voltages.

The low ESR caps are good at storing spikes down into the cap plates and resist high voltages by doing this,  They can still charge over the limit you want but they take their time getting there.

It wouldnt need to be a very high farad, just a high voltage, low ESR cap.

[Leslie]

Here is an edit of Alans 3 phase rectifier circuit.



Without buliding it myself you will have to adjust the elements and resistors to get the fet switch to work as desired.

This is just a concept of what the Alans circuit can do with some automated controlls.

When the battery bank reaches a certain set voltage voltage is supplied to turn break down zener at a theoretical 11.8v this will hand current to the transitor and give some room for the battery to charge above 11.8v, when the fet gate clamp is exceeded, this event should be calibrated to happen when you bank is at optimum capacity, about 13.8v for big SLA banks, the transistor switches on and routes the current from the generator to the elements.  The battery can not discharge through the rectifier diode into the elements.  You can get fets or transistors that turn on with low voltages, some will be full on at 2v, so when the bank drops to below nominal charge voltage the fet closes access to the heat elements and starts to charge the bank again.  

What we have is a see-saw regulator that adjusts the prop speed to the voltage requirements of the battery bank.  

The heating elements will slow down the prop saving it from going too fast when the prop has no resistance being disconnected tio the battery.  

[Cornelius]

Now, what you really need to do, would be to take a trip over to fieldlines.com, and read until your eyes starts to tear... It's also worth to take a look at their companion site, otherpower.com. These guys know things about generating power from pm generators that I suspect even the experts doesn't know...

But in general, what you need, is a 'dump-load controller', not unlike Leslie described; a device that switches the batteries over to a load that are matched to the output of the windgen when the batteries reaches top-charge; the windgen should still be connected to the batteries.
Now, this applies to lead-acid batteries; for Lithium batteries, it might be a good idea to activate a kill-switch to the generator (connected between the gen and the diodes), when the batteries are fully charged...

Also, a manual kill-switch (a switch that shorts all the phases of the gen (mounted before the diodes)) are a good thing to have when storms hits you... A runaway windmill are scary to be around...

Edit:
You does not mention the voltage of your battery bank; Let me assume 12V... Am I correct in assuming that the motor have an rpm around 3600 at 72V? That would mean that you'll need around 600rpm to get 12V...
You might be in trouble here...

[Leslie]

I was concerned about the low volts on the motor, I think that the gen config delivers much less volts under a decent load than they do when operating as a motor.

You want the amps to be pushed not the volts.

There is some text about a default prop speed as to require enough RMP to have inertial keep the prop going and to allow it to start up so this too needs to be considered.

I would get the prop up and running and add 12v batteries until prop speed volts and amps it are acceptable.  Would be good to avoid gearing.

24v should allow some nice load on the windings and convert this to over 50 amps.

We need more data on battery bank size and prop size before we even have a starting point.

A dead short over the windings in high speed winds may place too much load over the windings so a a big element to preslow the prop down maybe needed.

I'm thinking a couple mad scientist lab switch levers to add heating resistor elements to the load may work well.  Just slow the thing down by adding one element at a time until the speed is acceptable.

Im not sure about totally stopping the prop in high wind is a good idea too as there may be too much resistance on the blades.

Wind gen is great and very viable source of power but it is not easy to do...

[Leslie]

Or one way to get a good idea of the best voltage for the prop is, on a average windy day, add the resistor elements one by one until the prop is turning at an acceptable speed, and test the current to the elements.

Get the figure of max amps at optimum prop speed and test the voltage drop over the elements.

Match every 10 amps supplied by the gen with a 80~100 ah battery and match the voltage drop over the element with a series battery just under the under the voltage drop of the elements.


Series 6v batteries or a series of SLA individual cells are the best to get it perfect.

[Leslie]

I am not sure if a charging battery voltage is the same as the V drop over R.  So maybe also test the resistance of the chosen amount of elements and consider this when using the batts.  The batts need to match the resistance of the elements.

Though I am pretty sure if you just use current as the guide for battery choice it wont matter.

Its like my lm338 current followers I am building. The device resistance and current draw of any device it powers, at 36v or 24v 12v, any voltage I put on it works as long as I only allow the devices spec current limit, the voltage doesnt matter what-so-ever, so long as I don't exceed the 37v limitation v drop over the LM338 Ic.

The same goes with big batts.  As long as you match the max current with its AH at a 8ah~10ah to 1 amp ratio all you need to do is switch it off before it overcharges.

[Cornelius]

Have you tested the motor with a rotor at all?

I suspect that you will have problems getting it to work as a windgen at all, sorry to say. The motor has a potentional to generate closer to 5kW, but that would be at 3600+ rpm. A rotorblade closer to 17-18 feet in 11-12m/s would be required to get that kind of power, and a rotor that size have a usual speed at 80-120rpm in such windspeeds. Gearing are usually out of the question for us tinkerers at those power levels, besides, it adds noise and reduces efficiency.

If you use a smaller rotor to get higher rpm, the rotor would probably never get out off stall...

Sorry, I don't mean to be pessimistic, but there are a lot of things to learn before managing to make a working windgen.

But a bit more on topic:
Being a 3-phase star-connected 'generator' (for your usage), you can calculate DC voltage (The voltage you get at a given rpm after rectifying all three phases) by measuring AC voltage between any 2 of the tree phase-wires. Multiply this voltage by 1.73 to get 3-phase AC voltage, and then multiply that with 1.41 to get rectified DC voltage.

 (1-phase AC *1.73) * 1.41 = DC out

Now, if you use a drill with a known top speed, and connect it to the motor and run it at full speed and measure the ac-voltage, you will have a very good idea on what speed you'd need for your voltage.

Edit:
All this said, that motor would probably make an excellent generator mounted on a Lister diesel or on a Briggs&Stratton...

[Bikemad]

Now, if you use a drill with a known top speed, and connect it to the motor and run it at full speed and measure the ac-voltage, you will have a very good idea on what speed you'd need for your voltage.

Cornelius, this was originally discussed in another topic back in August last year, and I indicated at the time that this motor was not ideal for a wind generator:

19.98 VAC at 2000 RPM

Dan,

If those figures are correct, your wind turbine would have to be geared up very high to spin the motor in excess of 7,200rpm in order to generate 72V.

Wind turbines don't like too much speed!

I think this motor is probably not the best choice for a wind turbine project.

Alan
 

If you're still interested, the original post can be seen here.

Alan
 

P.S. According to your figures, it should produce 48.73VDC @ 2000 rpm.
So, to produce the required 72VDC output would only require 3000 rpm not 7200.