That link didn't work for me, but if the battery is supposed to be able to deliver 30A continuous, I would not expect it to be cutting out.
Regarding the controller settings, try reducing the
Peak Maximum Current to
30A and see if it still cuts out.
If it does still cut out, I think the battery may have a faulty
BMS or weak cell group that is causing the cutting out problem under load.
If this is the case, you will need to contact your supplier for further information regarding their warranty procedure for the battery.
The 24V
Motor Voltage setting should be OK to use as some forum members have mentioned that it gives improved torque when using the controller on the 24V setting with a 48V battery.
If you have a Reverse switch wired up, I would suggest setting the
REV mode to
Unimm instead of
Immed in case the Reverse switch is accidentally activated while travelling forwards.
This should ensure that the motor will not try to
"immediately" run in reverse, but will wait until the wheel has stopped going forwards before power can be applied in Reverse.
I suspect that the dual trike will have sufficient weight on the front wheel to prevent it from wheelspinning under heavy acceleration, but if you find that the front wheel does try to spin when full throttle is quickly applied, try reducing the
Acceleration level until the wheelspin is eliminated.
If you want the trike to go faster under motor power
(without exceeding the legally permitted speed), simply increase the
FWD Speed Scale until the required/legal speed is achieved.
Alan