Problem getting the motor power

[Bikemad]

You will need to use your meter to check for continuity between the connector ends of the Hall sensor wires and the connections onto the three Hall sensors.
I don't know whether that motor uses a printed circuit board as a junction unit or whether the wires are simply soldered direct to the Hall sensor legs.

Perhaps you can post some pictures of what it looks like inside once you have removed the side cover/s.

Alan
 

[Void7775]

hi
the motor looks exactly like this http://s266.photobucket.com/user/Link_Of_Hyrules_Bucket/media/Schwinn%20S-Go/DSCN0537.jpg.html  no circuit board on it.
1.i did this test https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yh9ngpOKS5o and it was like in the video.. the wheel was resisting. this means the controller is good.. right?
2. combined with the fact that the voltage doesn't alternate like I said previously ("the all the wires give 5v without alternating at all while I turn the wheel /the wheel is on the ground.. and I just push the bike to turn the wheel.  the black -red wire gives 4,37v.")  .. it would mean that there is a very good chance that the sensors are broken.. right?
3.does this mean I have to replace all the sensors?
4.what should I search online to buy these sensors?

[Bikemad]

It does sound like the Hall Sensors are faulty, and as none of them are working, all three will need to be replaced.

The Honeywell SS41 Hall sensors are commonly used as replacements for most hub motors and should be obtainable from most large electronic component suppliers.

If you can't obtain them locally you could try Edward Lyen on the Endless-Sphere forum.

Alan
 

[Void7775]

thanks

[Void7775]

hi.
i've bought a golden motor which has the motor all black like this:
http://s2.postimg.org/w30b9qw3t/P1070304.jpg
1000w 48v. 20A controller
i bought new lead 12v 18ah batteries. (initial current 5A)

 I changed the hall sensors because I had problems + I have put wires for 220v between the batteries and it works stronger now.
in my house if I get on the bike it starts and pushes pretty strong. while having no speed if I put my legs on the ground and accelerate it begins to spin and stars having some speed without stopping.
if I put the bike against a wall and accelerate it pushes for 3 seconds and then stops because the wheel isn't
but the problem is that when I get the bike out on a very small incline.. it gets started but it stops after about 3 seconds. why?

[Bikemad]

It's difficult to say for sure what is causing the cutting out, but if the battery wiring is not able to supply the rated 20A that the controller requires (which can sometimes be much higher for short bursts) the voltage will drop significantly under heavy load, causing the cutting out that you are experiencing.

Are the 220V wires that you have used suitable for high current, or are they smaller in diameter than the motor's power cable wires?

Does the battery warning light appear on the screen when the motor is under load like it did before?
If so, you really need to check the voltage at the batteries and at the controller just before the motor cuts out and see whether the voltage is too low at the battery (poor batteries) or just at the controller (batteries are good but the power wires are still too thin).

With the wheel against a wall, the controller should cut out after a short time to protect the controller and motor windings from being overloaded by the stalled motor, but this should not happen if the motor is turning, unless it is still struggling under a very high load at very slow speed (or if the phase wires are not connected in the correct sequence).

Alan
 

[Void7775]

i used the cables from something like this http://cdn.altex.ro/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/600x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/3/8/381.250k_-381.251k-_-381.25_1_1.jpg
they seem the same diameter as the motor power cables.
it takes off and pushes hard at for about 3 seconds with me on the bike but then it cuts off at a  slow speed.
when I pushed the acceleration a bit it worked then when I pushed it more it cut off.
the battery voltages are still 12,8v at every one.
something else that was odd was that when I turn the acceleration it shows the power meter without ever going above 70%.

[Bikemad]

Those cables should be rated around 13A @ 220V (unless the extension lead states a lower figure) but could struggle to deliver 20+Amps @ 48V without having a significant voltage drop across the length of the two wires.

I have found that lead acid batteries often suffer from a noticeable voltage drop under load, even when connected with good heavy duty wires.  However, if they are connected with thinner wires that cannot handle the current flow, the overall voltage drop will be even greater.

Under heavy load, the combined voltage drop across the batteries and wires can sometimes be large enough to trigger the Low Voltage Cutoff in the controller, which forces the motor to cut out, and I suspect this may be the reason why your motor is cutting out under heavy load.

Weak battery cells in older batteries can also suffer from excessive voltage drop under load, but simply measuring the individual battery voltages before and after the event is unlikely to highlight the problem, as the battery voltage will usually rise again as soon as the heavy load is removed.

The best way to confirm whether or not the cutting out is being caused by a significant voltage drop at the controller is to measure the actual supply voltage directly across the controller's battery connections while the motor is under full load.
If the voltage drops below ~42V (for a typical 48V controller) the Low Voltage Cutoff will usually switch off the motor power to prevent the batteries from being overdischarged.

Using thicker battery wires (combined with good battery terminal connections) will greatly reduce voltage drop between the batteries and the controller, which should also prevent the Low Voltage Cutoff from being activated prematurely.

Alan
 

[Void7775]

ok. thanks. I will try that later.

[Sam.Vanratt]

Hello Void7775
is this really a GM Motor? I've been watching GM's BLDC since about 2009 but never seen such a motor from GM (but from others like elfKW OEM Versions). Using LeadAcid is not the best solution (alone the strong clamps to get them stable on a bike is enormous), just like fitting cables (20A needs a 2,5 mm^2 isolated cable each and connectors; as bigger as lower the drop).
What you describe sounds like the (I've two MagicPie3) overcurrent protection and later the undervoltage protection in action. What have you programmed in your controller? Are you sure the controller is working with the motor (and who told you that)?

Cheers & good luck
Sam

[Void7775]

hi.
i ran it a few times while the bike was against the wall and a sensor pin got loose. I opened the hall and fixed it.
the LCD also has a voltmeter. so I've put the bike wheel in the air and pushed the acceleration to the max.
the power bar is empty when I don't push the brakes. the power bar gradually goes up to full when I push the brakes (gradually to maximum). the voltage reads something like 48v when it's running without brakes. and when I push the brake that hard that it makes the wheel stop it drops to a minimum of 41v and when I release the brake after that it starts immediately accelerating without having to turn the throttle back to 0 and then back to maximum.
from my perspective it looks good now. it's working as it should be working right?
last time I tested I was outside and the engine stalled and stopped completely at a small incline(i had to turn the throttle at 0 and back to max to start it). I tried to reproduce the incline in home by applying the brake.

[Void7775]

now I tested in a different way. I applied the brakes fully with 0 throttle and then accelerated progressively. it didn't choke anymore. when I released the brakes a bit it started to spin a bit. the power cables for the motor got hot. will this be a problem if I go up a hill? does it have a temperature cut off sensor?

[Bikemad]

If the cables are getting "hot" then I would say that they are not thick enough to cope with the current and it could cause serious problems if they become hot enough to melt under continual uphill load. 

If there is a temperature sensor in the controller it would not be affected by hot wires outside of the controller and would not provide any protection against the battery cables overheating.

I would replace the cables with heavier duty cables to prevent further problems.

Alan
 

[Void7775]

thanks for the help.
the wires from the battery are not getting hot at all while the 3 wires from the controller to the motor are getting hot if the wheel is stopped or if I apply the brakes hard to simulate a hill climb. the motor wires are original and came with the motor itself. they are going directly in to the motor.
the motor is 1000W and the controller is 48v.
are you suggesting replacing the motor to controller wires themselves?

[Void7775]

my bad. I tested again now. the wires of the battery are also heating up. I am already using good cables I think from this http://cdn.altex.ro/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/600x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/3/8/381.250k_-381.251k-_-381.25_1_1.jpg
what cables should I use?
could it be the connections? I just use screw bolts to hold the wire pinned down to the battery connections.