The battery pack does have a control module, and the R/C community has done some reverse engineering to figure out what exactly it does. That is still a work in progress. In addition to the pins that run through the control module, there are two spade connection slots that bypass the control module and are wired to the positive and negative end of the series of cells. The negative end connection is fused at 15A so anyone who tries this for a 500W motor may want to use at least 2 parallel packs to give a fused 30A available current. A number of e-bikers have bypassed the 15A fuse in the pack to allow for higher draws on individual packs.
The R/C community mostly tears these things apart and are only interested in the cells inside. The R/C aircraft hobby is very interested in the available draw because they run these cells at 30A or more in their stunt planes while doing rolls, vertical climbs, and other "3D" aerobatics. One of their attractions to the A123 cells is they can provide that kind of draw without killing the cells. Some of the other lithium chemistries and even the NiMH and NiCad have very short cycle lives at high draws, so they have to provide more parallell packs. These cells they can get away with only 1 or 2 sets of parallel cells (anywhere from 3S1P to 7S2P depending on the size of the model airplane)
For the e-bike community you can keep the packs intact because the pack weight isn't as critical as it is in aircraft hobbies. The tool battery form factor is fairly convenient to an e-bike. Keeping the packs intact you can still utilize the standard DeWalt charger.