Dual drive Magic Pie III Problem

[k__x]

hi!
i have a rear Magic pie 3  and now I installed a Front wheel Magic pie 3 (special winding 60km/h) to make a dual drive system.

When I made the wire connections, I don't connected the +5V throttle cable of the front wheel  (i burned a controller already, when I commect them toguether).

i have all programed in PC (USB) with 100% full speed, 100% aceleration, and 0% Regen brake, they have the same config!

but one strange thing is happen!

1º - when I conneted all the controllers cables to front and rear motor, I connected only the Battery power to the front, and disconnected the battery power from rear motor,  to test only the front wheel like the first picture, but when I start to throttle, all the wheels start to spin!!!!
the back wheel to, with the power cable disconnected!

its normal??? it an burn the controllers cable right??

2º - when I make a test drive with all the cables connected, I check that one wheel is braking the other with REG braking...one pushing and one braking the other at some throttle! NOTE that the REg braking is programed at 0% in all the wheels!
one example, if I get full speed 100% throttle and get the thottle knob slow to about 10% speed, it makes a big REGerative brake and stops the bike !

3º - Using the Cruise Control, the brakes sometimes take many time to disconnect the motors, or sometimes don't work!! I had to click again in Cruise Control button to stop the motors because the brakes don't work sometimes or need much time to be in action!


what can it be??

[Sam.Vanratt]

Hello k___x
experience from 1) do not make any (eletrical) sense to me. The +5V ist generated via the Supply (which was not present) and therefor the rear could not get energy to spin...
2) when you enable Reg Braking the value is just active the first lets say 5 seconds; after that another full brake (two level) is starting, but that depends on the firmare your controller has. Of my three MP3s only two have that effect (quite practical if you ask me).
3) should work any time.... sounds like not sync motors/firmware/wiring.

WHAT I WOULD DO: split both and try every single one with it's own set of brake, throttle, .,... and check if both are reactiong like it should;if not you are async and using it parallel is not advised (mean should be fixed).
It will be driving like a tank as you have two different drive gears. Any of them should work flawlessly and do not influence the other one. THEN you are synced and welcomed to combine.

The reaction time of the brake is about 400ms, while the cruise took only 200ms in my measurements to sample a new value of speed, but I'm not sure how long the sample time took to get the value (of the throttle).

Good luck
Sam

[Bikemad]

Experience from 1) do not make any (electrical) sense to me. The +5V is generated via the Supply (which was not present) and therefore the rear could not get energy to spin...

Sam,
The +5V supply to the throttle was actually supplied from the rear controller which in turn was being supplied with battery voltage via the front controller through the thin "Battery + and Ground" wires which are joined together on the front and rear control harnesses.

k__x,
If both motors are not connected to the same battery you should not have the two "Battery +" wires connected on the two harnesses, but the two "Ground" wires must still be left connected for the other function to work.

With only one motor connected to the battery, the current trying to flow through the small harness wires (battery + and Ground) to supply the other controller will burn the wiring under load.

Also, if you had separate batteries connected to each motor that were not at identical voltages they would try balance out their voltages by passing high current through the two thin wires (Battery + and Ground) which are connected together on both harnesses. 

It might be worth double checking the continuity of each or the joined wires (especially the ground wire) to make sure nothing has been damaged during your previous test with the battery disconnected from the rear motor.

Unfortunately, to check all of the wiring you would really need to confirm continuity between the entire length of wire right up to the connections on the controller PCBs.

You can easily check the ground connection by disconnecting the battery from both motors and then checking for continuity between the two "Battery -" connectors on the motors. If there was a break in the ground wire within either of the control harnesses you would not have continuity between the two "Battery -" connections.

Alan
 

[k__x]

Hi!
The battery is the same for the motors, I only make one test, of remove the cables for one motor to check the other!

the controllers firmware are different, the front Wheel have the new Magicpie 3 UNIVERSAL controller...
the Rear wheel have the older firmware controller...they are not compatible? should I change the rear for the UNIVERSAL new one?

the brake is very very strange...the connections are allright, but sometimes it don't brake(turn off the motors), sometimes it take about 1 second to brake(turn off the motors)
the REGEN brake is at 0% at all the motors 
if I put the cruise control, sometimes it don't work to...i have to clik again in cruise controll button to turn OFF the motors

the ground wire is connected together with FRONT/REAR


I tried this:
1º I connected the USB and I programe the FRONT wheel to SPEED 0%, and the REAR to speed = 100%, then I test the REAR wheel... OK, it worked well!
2º I connected the USB and I programe the REAR wheel to SPEED 0%, and the FRONT to speed = 100%, then I test the FRONT wheel... OK, it worked well!
3º I connected the USB and I programe all to 100% speed, I get the problems, I feel one that is braking(REGerating) the other, in aceleration ... if I lower fast the throttle from 100% to 5%, I feel one with BIG regenerating braking.... 

many thanks!!!!!!!!

[k__x]

front motor with new controller, I don't know if its the Universal model!

[k__x]

the REAR motor, with the old controller

[k__x]

I have this New controller supply to replace,
i don't know if it will be compatible with the Rear motor...they are different...

do you know?   

[Bikemad]

That controller will definitely work with the rear motor but I don't know whether the three phase wire connections are the same as the older controller.

Also, check the number of pins on the motor harness connector to make sure they are the same on both the old and new controller harnesses.

Alan
 

[k__x]

That controller will definitely work with the rear motor but I don't know whether the three phase wire connections are the same as the older controller.

Also, check the number of pins on the motor harness connector to make sure they are the same on both the old and new controller harnesses.

Alan

how can I know the phase cables? =(

many thanks!

[Bikemad]

The colour coding of the cables should still be the same (Green, Blue and Yellow) and the corresponding connections are usually marked on the controller's PCB, but the physical connection may be different as some use screw connectors and others have push on blade terminals:

 




Alan
 

[k__x]

The colour coding of the cables should still be the same (Green, Blue and Yellow) and the corresponding connections are usually marked on the controller's PCB, but the physical connection may be different as some use screw connectors and others have push on blade terminals:

 



Alan

oh...ok!
my problem was the wire colors connections, but I have this picture to know the right connections...
about the connectors, I can change them!

many many thanks!!!

 
many thanks!!!