So no other electrical components that could be changed in the motor?
Unfortunately not, all of the electrical components in the wheel
(with the exception of the three hall sensors) are integrated into the speed controller itself.
The hall sensors are the only sensitive electrical components situated inside the motor itself, the actual phase windings on the stator appear to be very robust, and mine have been subjected to burst currents of just under 100 Amps without any signs of failure or overheating.
Unfortunately, it still sounds like either a controller problem or a poor connection on the motor wiring harness to me.
Carefully inspect the Anderson battery connectors on the battery power lead to make sure their contact surfaces are clean and not burnt, and also make sure there is a good connection between the cable and the connector itself
(it should either be crimped or soldered securely with no discernible movement within the connector)If the controller is getting full battery voltage, and it does not run when the throttle test is carried out, it is most probably a faulty
(or incorrectly programmed) controller.
Make sure the voltage setting of the controller is not higher than the battery voltage. A controller set for 24v operation will run with 24V, 36V or 48V batteries, but a controller set for 48V operation will not run on 24V or 36V!
Under the Motor Type section make sure BLDC is checked and that the phase angle setting is on 120 and not 60.
If you're not sure what all the settings should be, simply click the "Factory Setting" button and then make sure the Motor Voltage setting is not higher than your battery voltage before you save the settings to the controller by clicking the "Store/Save" button.
Alan
