Magic Pie III not working

[k__x]

i buyed a new Magicpie 3 but it don't make any sign of life

i connected it do my rear magicpie 3 (works well) but it don't work

i tried to conect it to my PC but it don't make any BIP sound and don't connect to!

what can it be? =(

[Bikemad]

Did you connect the new controller to your PC before testing it on the bike, or only after it refused to run?

As the colour of the wires in the main harnesses are not identical, it's possible that they could be wired differently inside the connectors.
If the red wire on one harness was +5v on one and battery voltage on the other, this could destroy components on the +5v circuit of the new controller the moment the battery power was first turned on. This would also prevent subsequent connection to the PC for programming.

You can use a multimeter to check the continuity between identical pins on each of the two paralleled connectors on the joined harnesses.
Start with pin one on both connectors and then check all pairs systematically until all eight sets of pins have been checked for continuity.

If you don't have continuity on all eight identical pairs this would indicate either a difference in the wiring or a poor soldered connection where you spliced the wires together.

If the wiring checks out OK, it could simply be a faulty controller.

Alan

[k__x]

Did you connect the new controller to your PC before testing it on the bike, or only after it refused to run?

As the colour of the wires in the main harnesses are not identical, it's possible that they could be wired differently inside the connectors.
If the red wire on one harness was +5v on one and battery voltage on the other, this could destroy components on the +5v circuit of the new controller the moment the battery power was first turned on. This would also prevent subsequent connection to the PC for programming.

You can use a multimeter to check the continuity between identical pins on each of the two paralleled connectors on the joined harnesses.
Start with pin one on both connectors and then check all pairs systematically until all eight sets of pins have been checked for continuity.

If you don't have continuity on all eight identical pairs this would indicate either a difference in the wiring or a poor soldered connection where you spliced the wires together.

If the wiring checks out OK, it could simply be a faulty controller.

Alan

yes, I have a brown wire with a purple wire connected, the others are the same color =(

do you have the wire manual of dual drive?  all the 2 kits (front and rear) wires need to be connected to the same?

[Bikemad]

Unfortunately there is no diagram for the dual Pie, just this one for a conventional single motor showing the pin allocation but not the colours of the internal wires:



When you join two identical motor harnesses together to operate from the same controls it has been suggested not to connect the +5V wires together, but to simply use a single 5V supply from one controller to power the handlebar controls.
All other wires are simply connected in parallel for the remaining functions (brakes, throttle, cruise, reverse and ground).

If your wiring harness on the new motor is fitted with the latest 10 pin plug and socket, it might be more of a problem trying to identify the leads as no diagram has been released showing the pin configuration for the 10 pin connector:



If you are sure that the wires are all connected correctly and the rear motor is still working, then it is likely to be a faulty controller.

Alan
 

[k__x]

many thanks, I had connected all the cables, +5V to, I think I blow the controller...

I opened the controller, and I think it have a wrong cable connections, I can't understand the connections!

I checked the connections and the wires colors:
RED = Cruise signal
BLUE = Brake signal
Brown or Purple = program signal
orange = Battery +
Black = Ground battery -
White = +5V
Yellow = Not Used
Green = Throttle signal

and in controller, it have the BROWN and the ORANGE cut off!

how its possible?


I checked and I have one component that blow, I don't know what it is

[Bikemad]

The colours of the wires going to the controller could well be different to the harness colours, which is why you really need to check the continuity of all the wires using a meter to determine which pin each wire is actually connected to.

The component that has blown is a capacitor, I don't know its value, but I'm guessing it has been blown by too much voltage (or perhaps a reversed voltage?) which can happen if the wires have been incorrectly connected. Unfortunately there are likely to be other components that have been internally damaged at the same time, although they may not necessarily be visibly damaged on the outside (like the blown capacitor).

My controller is an earlier version than yours but it also has the Brown and Orange wires chopped off, but I have the following eight wires connected to the board from the motor harness:

• Thick Red = Battery + (Main Power supply)
• Thick Black =  Battery - (Ground)
• Thin Red = Cruise Signal (xun)
• Thin Black = Program signal/Reverse (rx)
• Thin Yellow = Pedelec Signal (pas)
• Thin Green = Throttle Signal (sb)
• Thin Blue = Brake Signal (br)
• Thin White = +5V (+5)

Please Note: These are the colours on the controller end of the cable, but as they all connect via a hidden junction board in the motor harness, the colours on the motor's 8 pin connector (and the main wiring harness) may differ.

You must make sure that the wiring is 100% correct before you connect a replacement controller, or you could end up with another dead controller. 

Alan