All 3 lights shouldn't be lit up at the same time, so something is definatly wrong in the readout circuit. It is also possible that you could have had your 48v pack arc over to the Throttle Signal wire which is 5v MAX. Without another throttle it will be hard to tell if you burned out the controller or not...
Duck,
All three light
should be on if the battery is fully charged. As the voltage starts to drop, the top LED will be the first to turn off. With continued use, the middle LED will eventually go off too. The red LED normally remains lit right up until the battery's
BMS shuts off the power if the battery voltage reaches the Low Voltage Cut-off point.
If the voltage rating of the throttle unit does not match your battery, you may find that all three LEDs stay on continually, or only the red LED lights up, depending on whether the throttle voltage rating is higher or lower than the battery.
Hi and
to the forum Zach,
I would first try unplugging the two brake switch wires from the front connector to see if it makes any difference. If the throttle then works correctly, the fault could be due to a faulty brake lever switch or its wiring. Plug the brake connectors in one at a time to determine which one is causing the problem.
Another possibility is the wires on the throttle can be damaged if the cable is too tight and gets pulled too much when the handlebars move fully from side to side.
You can perform a simple test which will bypass the control harness, brake switches, throttle and cruise controls and simply checks the motor, controller and battery circuit by disconnecting the main control harness and then bridging two throttle contacts with a piece of small diameter wire, I used a reshaped paper clip as indicated here:
Don't force the wire into the sockets as this can open the contacts up, resulting in a poor contact with the pins when the the main harness plug is refitted, you only need to touch it against the two contacts
(with the battery turned on first) to hopefully make the motor run at full speed, confirming that the motor, controller and battery are all OK.
To avoid accidentally shorting out the wrong sockets, and causing possible damage, you can place a piece of masking tape
(or something similar) over the other sockets to ensure the wire can't accidentally be poked into the wrong hole.
As it states on the diagram,
make sure the bike is secure with the wheel raised off the ground before you turn the power on and insert the wire and keep hands and loose wires etc. safely away from the wheel and tyre! If it doesn't run during the above test, I would say the controller or motor harness is definitely faulty and will need to be replaced.
If it runs at full speed when the wire makes contact, the motor is obviously fine, but it doesn't rule out the possibility of an intermittent fault with either the controller or motor wiring harness.
Another test which only bypasses the throttle control can be performed without disconnecting the rest of the wiring to confirm that the throttle +5V supply and signal connections on the front harness are also OK:
If the motor runs with the paper clip, but not with the throttle, it is most likely to be a faulty throttle unit.
Please let us know what you find.
Alan 
