Help: Magic Pie and Lyen 12 FET controller not working

[luvxu]

Hi all,

 I connect the Magic Pie 2 to the Lyen 12 fets controller but it wouldn't run.

Here is the connection:
Controller:        Motor:
HALL:
Yellow            Green
Green              Yellow
Blue                 Blue

PHASE:
Yellow            Yellow
Green              Green
Blue                 Blue"

As I turned the throttle, I could hear some noise came out of the motor, it shook a bit but wouldn't turn. The CA was up and showed the correct voltage on the battery which is 50V.

Would you have some idea that could help me? I am including some pictures for your reference.

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/47307656/Photos/TrekMagicPie/IMG_20120904_155452.jpg
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/47307656/Photos/TrekMagicPie/IMG_20120904_155522.jpg
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/47307656/Photos/TrekMagicPie/IMG_20120904_155537.jpg
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/47307656/Photos/TrekMagicPie/IMG_20120904_155557.jpg
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/47307656/Photos/TrekMagicPie/IMG_20120904_155622.jpg
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/47307656/Photos/TrekMagicPie/IMG_20120904_155645.jpg

Thank you for your help,

[Bikemad]

Hi andto the forum.

Try swapping the Green and Yellow Phase wires and see if it then works, as I seem to recall that both the phase wires and hall sensor wires have to be swapped.

Please let us know if this works.

Alan
 

[Morgen 3Eman]

This is what worked for my MP3-Lyen controller wiring.

TTFN,
Dennis

Lyen Controller to Golden Motor MagicPie motor wire color lining (5/19/2011):




Controller:        Motor:
HALL:
Yellow            Green
Green              Yellow
Blue                 Blue

PHASE:
Yellow            Green
Green              Yellow
Blue                 Blue

_______________________

[truly_bent]

I'm running a Lyen controller also. I can confirm Dennis' color coding.
Jeff

[luvxu]

Ok, success finally!

I have been switching around with different permutation of the hall and phase wires. The final combination that works is the following just in case someone else might need it.

Hall connection: color match completely from Lyen controller to the Magic Pie.
Phase connection:
Controller Yellow ==> Motor Blue
Controller Green ==> Motor Yellow
Controller Blue ==> Motor Green

Thank you all for all your help. It is running strong now. I can't keep up with the pedaling anymore

[truly_bent]

How is this possible?
My Lyen controller to MPII is the same as Dennis' - blue to blue.

"Pass me my violin Watson! There's a mystery afoot."

[luvxu]

My motor is running strong now, but the no-load current is 19-20A, can this be right?

I tried the recommended connection but that didn't work for me:
"Controller:        Motor:
HALL:
Yellow            Green
Green              Yellow
Blue                 Blue

PHASE:
Yellow            Green
Green              Yellow
Blue                 Blue"

[DirtyGinge]

HI

your no load amp of 20A is an indicator of bad wiring config...if you use this for long, you will melt the wiring loom ( which will be hot to touch....., yes ive done it)


Try

Keep the phase wires the same and  move the hall sensor wires around

PHASE:
Yellow            Yell0w
Green              Green
Blue                 Blue

The wiring from mp2 to lyen controller is a different combination than a mac motor to lyen controller

Regards

[luvxu]

Alright, I spent the whole day trying all the different combination of phase and hall wiring to find the one with the least no load current. I found that to be what was recommended earlier by Dennis. The no-load current I got was 1.4A.

I also decided to program the controller. Since I never programmed the controller before after Lyen sent it to me, I tried to program the controller with what I thought should be my customized parameters (phase current to 80A, rated current to 40A, etc). And then, I took the bike out for a test run.

The result is horrible! My max speed was just 15mph instead of 30-35mph that I had before. Even going up a small hill I had to pedal hard to go up. There just wasn't any torque at all.

I thought that it was caused by some incorrect programming parameters, so I spent the whole day changing all the parameters to see if anything click but nothing helped. I even tried to go back to the configuration where I used to have a high no-load current to see if I can get it running like before. Again nothing help. Even with the former phase/hall setting, the bike still run with little torque.

Something is wrong but I cannot tell what it is. I even change to a fresh battery, checked all the wiring for loose connections, nothing helped.

My bike is as good as dead now. If you have any idea that could help, please let me know.

[Morgen 3Eman]

I'd ask Lyen.  He seemed pretty helpful when I bought mine.  But if you were drawing 20 amps without the wheel spinning, I'd be concerned you damaged something.  But I don't claim to understand how having the phasing wrong could cause a 20 Amp draw.  But then, I don't understand why the motor didn't run properly when you connected the wires the first time......

You didn't connect a hall sensor wire to a phase connection, by any chance? Or swap the +,- leads to the Hall sensors?

TTFN,
Dennis

[luvxu]

Got it working again ....

Lyen told me that he mod the shunt on my 12 fets board so I should program it with the 18 fet board setting. That helps fixed the problem. The draw on the no-load full throttle testing is about 1.4A now instead of 20A like before.