Are there other ways to test Magic Pie II internal controller?

[Pwd]

I was having throttle issues with my dual pie setup. I fixed the throttle wiring and was back on the road. Both pies cut out again recently and I used a spare throttle I have and I have no response from the motor. besides this method http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?topic=2359.msg13066#msg13066, is there another way to test the controller before I remove the cover from the Pie?

EDIT: No beeps when power is connected either.

Thanks...

 - Paul

[Bikemad]

Make sure that both of the brake levers are fully released and not sticking, as it could be a brake switch problem rather than the throttle.

Alan

[Pwd]

I am still trying to fix my issue with the front motor (MP2) not working most of the time. I have a front and rear motor.

I just tested some connections with a multi-meter.

The yellow connector from the controller that lights up the battery LEDs is reading full voltage (55.6V), just like the rear connector.

Here is where it gets interesting...

I measured the the black 3 pin connector for the throttle from the controller and it reads 2.7V and slowly drops a few 0.01 volts per second from when I first turn on the power. The rear throttle connector from the controller consistently measures 4.97 V. The pins I am measuring are the two outer pins on the black connector.

Every once and a while the front motor will work when I turn the bike on, it usually cuts out after a while though. Sometimes I get lucky and it stays on the whole run. Any ideas?

[e-lmer]

The throttle is a Hall Effect throttle.
Two of the wires should be 5V, and the third should be less than 5V but not supply much current. (DVM but not a needle volt meter.)

[Pwd]

Based on this diagram:

I was measuring #6 and it reads 2.7 volts (and continually dropping/fluctuating) ... what could that mean?

[Morgen 3Eman]

Hi PWD,

You don't mention what you referenced #6 to:  conventionally you would have the black Voltmeter probe to pin #2, and the red probe to pin #6.  If that is where you had the probes, the variation of the reading would make me think that either you do not have a good connection with the probes, or that you have an internal connection that is not well made, like a cold solder joint.

Here is how I would have made the measurement when I was an active troubleshooter:

    I would connect all the connectors you show in your photo, so that the motor, battery, and all ancillaries were properly connected.  make sure the drive wheel is not on the ground.


    Then I would measure the voltage between the red (red probe) and black (black probe) wires on the back side of the throttle connector.  You should have a constant reading of about +5 VDC.   If that is not the reading, I would suspect a bad connection in the wiring harness or control board .  It may be difficult to make the probes connect with the contacts inside the black connector.   Small diameter probes would make it easier to make contact. 

   Then I would measure between the  blue (red probe) and black (black probe) wires.  With the throttle closed, you should measure low millivolts.  Alan can probably give you an exact  range of readings.  As you roll on the throttle  the voltage should increase smoothly, and when you hold a constant throttle opening, the voltage should remain very steady.  If that is not the result you get, the throttle would be suspect.

TTFN,
Dennis

[Bikemad]

Alan can probably give you an exact range of readings.

Typically the voltage of the signal output from throttle hall sensor varies between 0.8V and 4.5V as the throttle is operated.
(1.25V-3.5V seems to be the controller's working throttle range).

Alan
 

[Pwd]

Hi everyone, I have an update to my issue with the front Pie not working.

In an effort to get my dual motor setup back in action for spring, I have done some more conclusive tests. What do you think?

The throttle test (jumping pin 4 and 6) doesn't spin the motor with the battery on. I have done a continuity test on all the wires from the controller to the female plug and they all seem to check out OK. (including the battery cables)

I am definitely thinking now that the internal controller is toast. Are there any further tests I should do before I replace the controller?

Thanks again,

 - PWD

[Bikemad]

Hi Paul,

I'm wondering whether it could be a failed hall sensor that is causing the controller to switch to sensorless mode. If this was the case, the wheel would need to be spinning before the motor would start.

Try the throttle test again, but this time give the wheel a bit of a spin by hand to see if the motor then starts.

Although you have done a continuity check on the motor harness it could still be a poor connection somewhere inside the harness that was simply making a good contact at the time you tested it.

My original MkI Pie had a similar problem after I tried an unsuccessful dual controller modification.
I tested the motor with the wheel mounted in a bench vice and it ran fine, but as soon as I refitted the wheel into the bike again it wouldn't work. I eventually located the problem by applying some throttle and then wriggling the wiring until I eventually got the motor to run and was able to pinpoint the fault.
It appeared to be a poor connection within the main junction unit which is encased in rubber, so instead of cutting it open I decided to leave it nicely sealed and simply taped the harness and junction block to the frame in the best working position and had no further problems with the intermittent throttle feed connection.

Alan
 

[Pwd]

Thanks for the reply Alan, you are the man!

I ended up replacing the controller and it appears to work now. I had someone replace the controller for me as my soldering skills are a bit lacking and they seemed to do a great job. (I added the black tape over the ground track too before it was installed).

For the record, the controller I replaced was marked mx-318.pcb and the new one was marked mx328.pcb It is till way to cold to do a road test with the dual drive, but I'm sure it will do fine.

Cheers,

Paul