New and improved battery switch

[Who42]

NEW AND IMPROVED BATTERY SWITCH

Recently I have been having some problems with the battery switch with the new reliable large square LiFePO4 Battery Cells 24V16AH/36V10AH/36V12AH/48V10AH
they deliver more current and the old battery switch that some times could not cope with extra current of the new large square LiFePO4 Battery Cells .
I just received a replacement which is much better in the solder points and bigger  heavy duty contact points
Good to see GM continually improving there products and good service

[Morgen 3Eman]

Any chance you have a part number and price?  Can we get one from Gary?   I'd like to get rid of the known reliability concerns of that switch.

TTFN,
Dennis

[GM Canada]

Any chance you have a part number and price?  Can we get one from Gary?   I'd like to get rid of the known reliability concerns of that switch.

TTFN,
Dennis

I have the improved ones in the parts and accessories section for quite some time now. These come standard with the lifepo4 batteries. at least mine have them anyway. I have that same picture sent to me in an email yesterday from what I believe to be one of my customers. Its always nice to hear when someone is happy

 Over the past year or so I have replaced a dozen or so of the old key switches with these and have had no complaints yet.

I think the main reason the key switches fail is the locking pin does not go though the hole in the plate properly. I have experienced more then once a key switch arching out and when I pull it from the rack its fine. I find if I hear a switch arching I drill a larger hole in the plate for the locking pin and its fine after that. I think the pressure of the pin not going through the plate opens the circuit a bit.

Anyway what do I know :0)
Gary

Sorry to edit my post but that new switch is very easy to solder on as well. when looking at that picture you can see a solder bead at each end of each contact. all I do is hold a wire across the two contacts on one pole. hold the sodering iron in the middle of the wire between the two solder blobs and in a second or two they melt and the wire sticks on. then while its hot I add a little more soder. Believe me if I can do it its easy

[Morgen 3Eman]

Hi Gary,

Thanks for letting me know that I probably have the updated switch in my battery pack. 

I agree with your evaluation of the locking pin hole.  I've already drilled mine out an extra .010.  It was just too fussy.  But isn't the switch closure made after the pin is extended?
 

TTFN,
Dennis

[GM Canada]

I certainly am not a real mechanical or electrical person. I have fumbled through life learning by trial and error. Hopefully learning from my mistakes. So many mistakes. Maybe that is why I have learned so much.

Why this effects the contacts in the switch I don't know. It didn't make much sence to me either. All I know is it made a difference more then once.

To see if you have the updated switch would only take a minute. Remove the four screws and take a look. Then again another lesson I have learned is the ol " if it ain't broke don't try to fix it"

Gary

[RobbyRob]

"That new switch is very easy to solder on as well. when looking at that picture you can see a solder bead at each end of each contact. all I do is hold a wire across the two contacts on one pole. hold the sodering iron in the middle of the wire between the two solder blobs and in a second or two they melt and the wire sticks on. then while its hot I add a little more soder. Believe me if I can do it its easy " Quote from Gary

I see 4 contact points. Do you mean the left 2 go together, and the right 2 go together? As I've illustrated?

[RobbyRob]

Or is it like this?

[Bikemad]

I see 4 contact points. Do you mean the left 2 go together, and the right 2 go together? As I've illustrated?

Rob, if you look closely you will see that there are only two contacts, but each contact has two blobs of solder (one on each end).

For your particular use they should be connected to the positive power cable as shown in the diagram below:



Alan