New Generation Controller -- Technology Breaking Through!

[e-lmer]

The new generation controller doesn't appear to have a battery level monitor.

I am looking at the circuit to see if I can figure out how to add a level meter.

Bio;  This unit doesn't appear to have any jumpers.  All the connectors on it
are marked in Chinese, but I have not found anyone that will translate it.

[biohazardman]

Make sure that the magnets on the pedelec wheel get really close to the sensors as they often need to be almost touching to work correctly.  Bend things if need be. Unless you are using lead acid batteries the battery meter is likely not of much use.  I only use a speedometer at the moment to figure out how far I can go and have done very well at estimating my range. Pretty sparce info on the web page so you will need to get hold of Philip or Tom for any more information.

[philf]

Hiya...

Most of the battery meters I have are fed battery voltage directly.  A series of resistors/diodes in the battery meter itself provides a crude voltage divider to light the various LEDs.  You can prove that by opening your old controller that supported the meter and observing where the "hot" wire was attached.  You could simply transplant the connector/wires from your old controller to the new, or wire it in externally.

Cheers!

[e-lmer]

You're totally right.  It works fine that way.

By the way, for anyone else that wants to reuse
a GM Indicator, the little + on the circuit board
is for the diode, not the power lead, the more
centered power lead is really negative.

Thank goodness it didn't blow up when hooked up
in reverse polarity.

[delta]

Hello,
In MX-24C-EB, ¿information brings over of the process: "Motor phase self detection and calibration"?
Thank you.

[e-lmer]

I am not familiar with that model number.

I can tell you that intelligent controllers can detect the angle between
the magnet and the coil.

For proper operation you want the coil to attract the magnet until just before
it reaches the coil, then start to reverse the current so that as the magnet
passes under the coil the coil starts pushing instead of pulling.
(You can't just turn the current around in a coil, you have to reduce it to
zero continuously, then increase it in the other direction.)

Getting this timing to happen is phase detection.
The hall sensors are used in the older controllers, but newer controllers can
do it by looking at the current running through the coils.

I hope this is the answer to your question.

[delta]

I am not familiar with that model number.

I can tell you that intelligent controllers can detect the angle between
the magnet and the coil.

For proper operation you want the coil to attract the magnet until just before
it reaches the coil, then start to reverse the current so that as the magnet
passes under the coil the coil starts pushing instead of pulling.
(You can't just turn the current around in a coil, you have to reduce it to
zero continuously, then increase it in the other direction.)

Getting this timing to happen is phase detection.
The hall sensors are used in the older controllers, but newer controllers can
do it by looking at the current running through the coils.

I hope this is the answer to your question.

Thank you for your explanation.
MX-24... It is the new cruise control.
I want that they indicate me like dectect an motor not known to the new "magic" cruise control. Probably Phillip or Tom ¿could help me?.

[lifeonourplanet]

Hi Everyone
I am considering buying two of these magic controllers for one bike. I live in the mountains in France (Chamonix Mont Blanc). This is one of the reasons I am interested in regenerative systems.
My first e-bike is going to be an off road on road prototype, in fact it will be two bikes eventually.
I live 300M above town so cruising down the valley has tones of potential to charge batteries.
I plan to install 2x 1000W hub motors with mechanical disc brakes. The front hub can be removed along with one of the controllers, this way the front wheel is simply replaced with a standard wheel and I have two 1000W bikes so a friend can ride too! I will use both hubs on one bike for steeper off road climbing and to get me home quick when those tough uphill sections kick in. The advantage of two controllers is that I can have independent front and rear regenerative breaking. I'm sure this may cause problems if one wheel momentarily locks up and starts to draw more current from the non locked motor. I am hoping that this will be easy to control. When riding technical single track it is important to have a smooth control over both brakes. And the brakes are constantly on so I am expecting to generate quite a bit of energy.   
I have no idea how high I will be able to climb on very steep off road terrain but I am hoping that with 2000W and 30Ah of LiFePO4 + continious pedal assist I may be able to make it from 1300M to 2000M then the fun begins as I drop into any single track of my choice   
By the time I arrive home at 1300M I hope the battery to have enough charge to make it 100M downhill to the bar and then back again   
Anyone find out if these were 50A or 30A at 48V ? they look a bit small to handle 50A constant.   
Soon to purchase components, have a 30Ah batt on it's way but keen to start building Prismatic packs. Have been discussing cell & BMS prices with Yesa and YGS Power. Gonna check out what is available with EV and then see what I can find in Switzerland. Postage is high so gonna ship by surface once all is decided. Should be rollin by end of July.