Pedelec working randomly when pedeling.

[Leslie]

Maybe I should explain my mood on this.


I might accept a little B movement.  A big Might, if this was the case when the hub was like this new. 

(B) is resulted from an ampliication from the C point, via the radius lenth of the outer rim and tyre. 

Where as (A) movement is not amplified by the rim radius lengths at all. 

Growing>2mm. (A) movement in Alans good picture, as decribed by the owner of this MP is Growing, increasing AKA getting worse, is totally unacceptable by any standard and should be at least checked. IMO.


(A) movement should not be happening so much to notice (A) movement alone, but (B) only should be considered acceptable .

I could be right. A cracked bearing seat reqiures only a small fracture, hardly any use of the bike to aquire such damage, and easliy to be made worse with weight applied. 

If rider can get 2mm (A) movement by using only hand pressure, this would be worse in proper use. 

[Leslie]

Long term heavy use will only make movement worse IMO.

This can be fixed if the machining is not up to grade and the bearing is too loose. 

A thin smear of epoxy mixed with very fine aluminiun filings and a light grade sand after 24hr hardening, like a gap filler. Sand it lightly as not to sand the actuall bearing seat but the bearing gap filler applied.. 

The epoxy would only be to hold the aluminum filings in place evely. The epoxy is not perform the action of the filler because epoxy will fail under shock, so make the aluminium raito high to epoxy ratio, over 50% maybe so it is the aluminium doing the work you want. 

Make sure it is cured well before reassembling wheel. and you could tapper the edge of the bearing seat edge a little to allow it to position correct, making it easier for a very snug fit.

Mix A tiny blob of epoxy and harderner.  Get a  piece of aluminium and with a very fine file, file enough directly into the epoxy mix, enough so the mix is gritty.  Smear just a little around the seat. Wait till cure. attempt to seat bearing into the seat to see if sanding is needed.  Sand lightly unilt bearing just starts to fit with some resistance, clean area well, and reasemble wheel.

This is what I would do.  But thats me.

[manmark]

dear Les

You make me worried.
The movement that my MP2 have is actually the B but as you understant because of the B the A is inevitably. So my MP2 is bright new; I just managed to install it 1,5 weeks ago and use it for this period of time. I bought it directly from GM through internet and the option to send it  for warranty in China looks impossible because it will cost just for the transport about 400,00€ (like a new MP3). The point is that I am not happy with this situation and I don't know what to do.

Thanks a lot.

[Leslie]

I am worried for you, this is all.

 If the wheel was in front of me I could be sure, but it can be easy to fix if you think it is very bad and the stator could rub onto magnets.

If you push a lot of weight to the side a resistance between magnet an stator and a noise will happen.  Put ear to the rim.

(B) is amplified but (A) may be very, very, small in comparison.  If (A) is noticable I would make some action.  If (A) is tiny, ride for a while and see if it gets worse.  IF movemnet is increased with much more weight and doesnt stop hard then a crack in the seat is possible.

[manmark]

Thanks a lot.
I will follow your advice and after a few days I will post the progress or the results of this situation.
Thanks again.

[Leslie]

There is plenty of advice here,  I understand about sending things back being difficult.

I bought my MP's from GM Canada, Gary from GM Canda realized if the MPs were not performing properly it would be hard to send them back, so he tested both hubs for me.  This was appriciated very much and I will always advise a good GM dealer like Gary at GM Canada over a factory purchase..

I had my MP's apart after a couple of weeks modding and tweaking them anyway.  Finding alternatives to the circlips, adding more power, converting them with external controllers and hardwriing all the cables instead of using the connectors until I made the bike I wanted.

I do find these kits a good starting point for the price,  rather than an Ideal solution.  It seems a culture with most brands that you may have to tinkler a little or even a lot to get that ultimate Ebike that becomes an invaluable asset. 

I enjoyed doing the work but at the end of the day the work had to finish, I wanted more to ride the bikes and needed the transport to be reliable.

[MonkeyMagic]

Finding alternatives to the circlips

Hey I got one of these that saves a ton of time trying to pry the circlips out, I'm not so much of a big fan of them myself but I do find them common in lots of motor/gear equipment. Then you can just put the clip back, and I found a box of mixed sizes at my local hardware store for $10 with a ton of different sizes

Curse you c-clips!!@!!!

C-Clip tool

[Leslie]

I used wire cutters to take my clips off.  Waste no time pulling them off.  Moved to electrical tape and heat shrink.