2 issues Controller programming failure but needed for other faults

[SydneyCommuter]

I need assistance from the pi brains trust, as i've hit a dead end.
Ive been trying to get the controller sw working on my internal pi without success.
I want to sort some anouying control issues that need settings changed to sort, over current cut outs(even with 2*48v gm 10ah batteries in parallel) once it's going and cruise on its great but stopping and get going agin it gets unreliable on acceleration with random cut outs, not sure if my 110kg weight is a factor, but expect max/ave current reduction would be good place to start. delays power ups from regen on my stop start trip etc. I want to try a dual but not happy with default front pi with regen for obvious reasons.
Over Xmas I pulled my pi open and buzzed out the connections from the pin outs at the back of the USB CCTV into the internal controller solder lugs all went thru ok as per previous post by Monkey (many tks)
This was no surprise as all my contols work ok throttle, cruise control, brake cut out.
So figue it's either the USB or the controller EPROM so easiest try a new USB just received.

Down loaded the latest pi200 sw and used the recent thread for zip file that unpacked ok (tks!)
Connect up run sw, when I hit the connect icon I get constant peeps 1 second intervals from both the pc and the pi.
Ps I'm running this on an older pc with win xp as it doesn't doesn't seem to run on anything newer.
I was just thinking of abandoning the Old pi and getting a couple of external controller ones, but then I come back to the same issue if the sw is the problem then I'm back to square one and lots more dollars down.
Really appreciate any advice on either the cut outs or sw cheers

[Bikemad]

 
Mark, I'm not convinced that successfully altering the settings using the software would have had any real effect on your cutting out problem.

The only things I can think of that would cause the cutting out/intermittent operation would be:

• Battery voltage too high (above 60V)
• Battery voltage too low (below the set LVC level).
• Temperature inside the hub rising too high and activating the thermal protection built in to the controller.
• A loose wire/intermittent connection.
• A faulty throttle unit.
• A faulty brake switch or brake lever not returned to the fully released position.
• A faulty battery switch or BMS.
• A faulty controller.
• Failed hall sensors.

When the motor cuts out, if the LEDs are still lit up on the throttle control unit it would indicate that the battery, BMS, key switch and battery wiring harness are not causing the fault.

As far as the programming of the controller is concerned, the regular beeping from the controller (and computer) is obviously not correct, but without being able to try another wheel, it's difficult to say whether it's a problem with the controller, the usb interface, the software or the PC.

Was the battery disconnected (or at least turned off) while you were trying to program the controller?  Because the battery power should always be turned off before and during the programming operation.

Alan
 

[SydneyCommuter]

Thanks for that

I'm confident the Anderson plug is good as I have replaced and resoldered them also the switches on the newer 48v seem ok they have worked ok and kept working unlike my old 36v16ah that I swapped out the switch with a single thow pole one as It failed from start the quality and robustness of the batteries and connector, cables they are sending now has improved hugely.
I notice also it's less severe or touchy with 36v pack.
That said I was thinking I hadn't noticed if the LEDs are off or not so I'll have a look at that.
I thought I'd do a quick check on the bike with it all cold held the bike down and swung on the throttle and with bike barely moving or fixed still no cutting out and lights on. So working, heating must be factor I'll take it for a ride and ty some tests plus take my avo with me and see if I can catch what's happening wrt thw battery o/p.
The programming Ive tied 2usb so think its got to be one of the other points?
I did stuff up with the first USB and connect with the 36v attached and decked an old laptop.
But latest example is with new USB, different pc newer pi200 sw ver. But maybe I stuffed up the EPROM bit of the controller with the volts? But the normal functioning all still works, throttle, cruise etc.

[SydneyCommuter]

Alan
Tks again tested out your suggestion re the battery LEDs. When the power cuts the LEDs stay lit. I went for a short ride and problem soon kicked in. It always cuts for about 3 seconds and after releasing the throttle and then reapplying the throttle it goes again. It doesn't happen if I run up the throttle very gradually but even on level ground at say 5 km apply full throttle quickly and cut! If no patience it'll cut wait throttle, cut wait throttle cut ant number of times. Always comes back after 3 secs, but unless really gentle back on the thtrottle off again. But once it's going it generally keeps going.
I put my avo across the battery engine out plug and not a move from a bit over 50v steady.  So I was barking up the wrong tree wrt thinking its a battery issue, looks like I have a faulty controller. Given that it may also explain the programming issues.  Tks Mark

[e-lmer]

If you are cutting out when you stomp on the throttle that means that you are dropping below the low voltage cut out.

This could happen if one or more cells in a parallel set is open circuit.

[SydneyCommuter]

When I tested it I had my meter across the battery out. It didn't move from solid 50+volts. But I guess it could have been too quick for my analog meter to see?

[Bikemad]

If the battery voltage had dropped low enough to cause the controller to cut out, you would definitely have noticed the needle move on your meter.

I'm inclined to agree with your faulty controller suggestion rather than a battery or BMS problem, unfortunately the only way to prove it for sure would be to replace it with another one.

Alan
 

[SydneyCommuter]

Thanks Alan, well rather than backing off I'm going all out and swapping out my internal pi with a new external *2 setup. Even my frustrating sub optimal "experiment" has me hooked. Should have them soon. I'll start and swap out the rear pi and report result, then on from there. 
Cheers Mark

[Rodmiami]

  Mark , I have read your posts over and over . I am far from any of the masters on this forum ,  but I read it everyday . You say that you were running a 36v 16 a battery before , then you went to 2 / 48v batteries . Doesn't the throttle have to match the voltage output ? Or does the throttle only have to match the wheel ? Maybe Bikemad or one  of the other brains out there can answer this question . Have you tried 1/ 48v battery ? I am confused . Rod Miami

[SydneyCommuter]

From my experience the throttle is the same on all, just a hall effect sensor and a couple of magnets, volts no consequence, I think it's driven off a non power related CCTV from the controller? One of the gurus will know? . But what is impacted is the battery indicator LEDs. with the higher v battery they stay all lit even if your battery is all the way to the bms cutting it off when flat. There is a post somewhere here showing mods to the leds I think it was just some different resistors, i'm not too bothered as I know how far I go and I have 3km margin. When I swapped back to 36 the leds worked again as per.
I've set up for 2 in parallel and a plates 2 hold them similar 2 Gary setup. But I have only been running it with one on board mostly, so it's cutting out with either the 36 or the 48 but it's much worse with the 48v. I rode it to work yesterday and it was a pain.
Cheers mark

[Bikemad]

I've set up for 2 in parallel and a plates 2 hold them similar 2 Gary setup. But I have only been running it with one on board mostly, so it's cutting out with either the 36 or the 48 but it's much worse with the 48v. I rode it to work yesterday and it was a pain.

Mark, you must not put a 36V and a 48V battery in parallel with each other, because the voltage of both batteries has to be identical for a parallel connection to be used.

Alan
 

[SydneyCommuter]

Sorry alan, I must have not been clear, I have one 36v used on its own! And 2*48v that I can use together alternatively to the 36 . Agree not in combination of volts got that from the previous thread. What I'm interested to try is the 36v into the 2 pi's given according to the specs it has similar current out to 2 48vs in parrallel obviously less power but.  Hey has anyone tried that on a dual?  I expect not high top end but torque?