Has anybody moved the led's from inside the controller to the outside?

[kazbluesky]

I'm bored waiting for my motor and replacement battery to arrive, so I was thinking - has anyone moved the led's from inside the controller to the outside and used them as back or front lights?  I know you might need to change the actual led's to high intensity ones , but is it possible?

Just wasting time..................

[Leslie]

it would be easy to do and it would work..


Go and rig up a good light system or something...

I did one with a 3 amp Dc to DC converter and tapped off 24 volts.  so im not burning up my batteires I used a red 1 watt and a ultra bright led 1 watt auto globe. 2 watts in total/  the DC to DC converter doesnt even feel warm at all.

these lamps are great Ill post you a pic...

[biohazardman]

Someone did move them to the outside and installed an on/off switch also.  It was a nice mod.  The LEDs you speak of are both not on all the time one is a dianostic led it blinks a number of times to tell you what is wrong with the controller.  The other although is a power on indicator and therefor on when you are running the bike.  Likely hooking up a high draw led there would do damage?  As stated in the other post if you want a high power light unit build one.  Some links to start you on the road to addiction with bike lights.

http://www.kayakaccessri.info/krabachwebsite/bike_light/bike_light_project/led_bikelight_project.html

http://taskled.com/forum/index.php

http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut750

http://www.taskled.com/bflex.html

[philf]

It was one of the first mods I did, and I've done it to all four of the controllers I have...



The switch is ganged (and good for 32A at 250V), but the internal arcing which must occur each time the switch is thrown will probably eat the contacts eventually.  I've been thinking about putting on a additional momentary switch (with a series resistor) in parallel with the main switch in order to permit a low-current "precharge" of the caps before throwing the main switch.

So far, still working great as-is after many many cycles...