Save a 36v regen controller

[Leslie]

Hi all

I bought 2 goldern motor hubs and 36v controllers when looking for a spot to install 1 controller I accidently draged the regen pin across a battery terminal and smoke came out of the controller.  Well the controller worked for three days and it went to the dogs.  The other controller works perfect on both hubs and the fried one doesnt on either. When I use the contoller the wheel 8X out of 10 wont turn and if it does its really rough and spins about 5 revolutions and stops.

Looking at the board I see the regen wire melted next to the two zeners the tracks look to be fine.  My guess is this one is retrievable.  Im thinking the zeners were damaged and finaly gave up the job maybe.

The board tracks must be intact as the controller worked fine for 3 days.

Some specs on those zeners would be noice please.

[Leslie]

The zener with the arrow is not behaving the same as the others. I put and ohm meter set at 20k ohm on it and it seems to crash to full resistance unlike the others.

BTW I removed the regen wires for the photo.

Edit

Testing the zener with the arrow with an ohm meter set at 200k I got 100k ohm is this normal?

[Lanchon]

I don't know that controller, if you don't trace the circuit there's not much I can say. (the pic is low res and out of focus, I can't make out any of the circuit even if I tried.) why do you say these are zeners and what function would they perform?

btw, I assume this signal is an input to the uC, I'm surprised the thing still breaths.

[Lanchon]

hi smeee,

user robertozm, has been looking for some info on the controller you have here. one wire came loose and he doesn't know where to solder it back. take a look at his posts here:

http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?topic=341.0

thanks!


EDIT:

btw, were you able to fix your controller? if not I have a favor to ask: on the back side of your controller you'll find 6 TVS diodes (1.5KE62A) in series with 6 resistors. I've been trying to find out the value of these resistors but they are covered with heat-shrink and I could ask anybody to remove the shrink to take a look. if your controller's dead, could you remove a shrink and tell me the value (or color sequence) of the resistor?

thank you very much!


PS. you can find the reason for my asking this here:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6511

[Leslie]

Yes.  OMG I think ive found a fault.  I took one off and the leg it broke like to easy.

They hard to read as one looks like 4 band, brown black silver gold.  I tested it, my multimeter batt is a little flat for these suckers.  I tested 3.

1 was 1.1 ohm the other 1.2 ohm and the other reads 1.7 ohm.  not a lot of differance here.

I think they use these to fix regen bug in the old controllers. they heat disipators im guessing to stop regen burning out fets.  Put in some ultracap banks.  They'll suck up that current...

I checked robertoes controller it was different...

[Lanchon]

thank you very much!

brown black silver gold means 0.1 Ohm +/-5%. on my cheap multimeter if I short the leads it measures around 0.7 Ohm, so it's kind of worthless for these ranges; maybe yours is similar. plus it's difficult to make a good low resistance connection sometimes. so I'm going to trust your color sequence.

btw, I think roberto's controller is exactly like yours. it's not the first controller on the thread though; keep scrolling until you hit his first post.

thanks again!

[Leslie]

I just put my glasses on and used my handy dandy ultracap led torch and the color code is correct.  0.1 ohm is good to go.

I left my led torch on for 24 hors and it still had 2.4 volts past 80 k 1/2 watt resistor and burning very dim. I want to go to 1/4 watt or even try a 1/8 watt..

The beauty of this torch is that it never fully discharges the leds just stop working.

Ive had them stall the computer USB 5v socket, they suck the current so hard charging from O volts. you can hear the solid state flex inside the switch phase PSU...

Fun stuff getting back into electroniques.

[Lanchon]

> I just put my glasses on and used my handy dany ultracap torch and the color code is correct.  0.1 ohm is good to go.

thank you, I really appreciate it!

[Lanchon]

> I think they use these to fix regen bug in the old controllers.

what do you mean? what regen bug? was there a problem with these controllers before?

[Leslie]

> I think they use these to fix regen bug in the old controllers.

what do you mean? what regen bug? was there a problem with these controllers before?

Yes I picked up some factory second controllers for a song.

If you turn off the controller when you're moving along the hub in regen blows the controller..

The only difference between this factory second and the the one I paid full price for is regen cant be disabled on the factory second and it has not got those resistors installed.

[Lanchon]

> The only difference between this factory second and the the one I paid full price for is regen cant be disabled on the factory second and it has not got those resistors installed.

interesting. so these factory seconds use the same board as  the good regens. maybe you can add TVS'es and regen enable wire and make them good.

> If you turn off the controller when you're moving along the hub in regen blows the controller.

when you say turn off you mean disconnect from the battery, right?

[Leslie]

Well almost identical. I just checked one quick to see if the solder was good.  Ill send a pic soon.