I've just been out in the garden testing
(messing around with) my bike and I still can't believe the difference in power.
I managed to flip it over backwards half a dozen times so far, because the front end simply defies gravity every time I twist the throttle.
I've been trying to compare the differences between 25.9 and 51.8V, and here are the readings from my watt meter:
Minimum Voltage 26.98 Volts
Max Power 1536.4 Watts
Max Current 56.59 Amps
Minimum Voltage 50.91 Volts
Max Power 3039.9 Watts Max Current 58.63 AmpsI found that using the lower voltage, the bike still has loads of power, but the front wheel stays in contact with the ground unless you pedal slightly. On the higher voltage, the bike is just unreal and tries to throw you off the back when you accelerate hard on inclines. I can't ride up my drive on full throttle any more because it just wheelies.
I am surprised that the shunt modification does not seem to have had any effect whatsoever on the regen, which seems to work just as it did before.
After 15-20 minutes of intense testing
(playing) the controller decided to cut out on me. I disconnected the power and then plugged it back in again and it started working again straight away, and this continued to happen a few more times over the next 10 minutes.
I now wish I had the hall sensors working, as the throttle is not very predictable at very low speed in sensorless mode
(not ideal for controlled wheelies) and it can sometimes catch you out when accelerating and turning tightly.
I was planning on replacing the hall sensors when the controller dies, but it looks like I may have to replace them on their own, as my internal GM controller just keeps on going!
Alan