Monkeys bike with 'tassles'

[MonkeyMagic]

and don't worry about the monkeys comments,  he's probably got bells, baskets and tassles on his bike,,,  says it all  

Lol that still cracks me up

Okay so I'll commence posting up my build that seems to be taking much long than anticipated... This post I'm seeing is turning into a novel... But maybe will throw some ideas around which is good

Long story short, I keep changing my design! I have one thought in mind, and that's to build this so I don't touch it again... Like that will happen haha

So its my internal dual drive setup, and still not 100% sure if I want to add a Cyclone chain drive, I have motor clearance but with my new rear tyre I won't have many gears to use (say 3 or 4 out of 6) but may still be feasable. I'm not getting rid of the tyre lol

Okay so here is the original bike I found a pic on the net:


I've changed near everything on the bike to parts I had, and bits and pieces off BMX's I've had over the years. This is because the bike is a 24" mountain bike suited for a smaller rider. The sole purpose of this frame was to include smaller diameter wheels and to build somewhat a 'custom' bmx

Attached here:

PIC 1: First build with 16" rear wheel, rear battery rack, front 24" wheel. NOT fun to ride (for the little time this wheel lasted before I changed to 20")

PIC 2: Changed front wheel to 20" cast, okay this was a good move....

PIC 3: Dual drive cast 20" --- too low to the ground!! Handled like the bees knees though... Sideways on rear and full dirt front wheel spin on front up wet grass hills LOL

PIC 4: Stripped frame, BIGGER tyres, new crankset, bigger crank axle, layback seatpost, better seat, all battery mounts ready


More to come.....

***Edit >> Notice the rear spring difference between pic 3 & 4 !!

[MonkeyMagic]

Measurements (after changes)

Motor Axle to Axle [length]=
1M exactly !!

Overall Length      =
1590mm

Pedal to ground [height] =
140mm

Rear Spring eye to eye [length] =
220mm

Ground to rear motor axle [height] = 
280mm

Ground to front motor axle [height] =
265mm

Ground to seat height =
925mm

Top bar length (standard frame) =
510mm

Middle of seat to end of top frame bar =
700mm (nearly 20cm increase with layback seatpost !!)

Handlebar overall width =
670mm

Ground to handlebar bar end height =
1070mm

Crank sprocket to ground clearance [height] =
245mm [that seems pretty good?]

Rear of seat to rear of wheel =
440mm

PIC 1: Netgear ethernet case I used (gal steel)

PIC 2: Spaghetti wiring LOL

PIC 3: Case complete

PIC 4: Where it lives







 

[MonkeyMagic]

GM battery case mod.

PIC 1 = Front of battery casing. 8 Pin accessory sockets on front for wheel and front forks, anderson connector socket and hole for 15-pin handlebar cable.


PIC 2 = inside, with all the room you have in there (there is tons, if you can SMD solder you will have a goldmine lol


PIC 3 = Rear of battery casing. 2 x anderson sockets, external controller output. 4 x accessory sockets (rear view camera AV, taillight, indicators brake signal, auto gear change etc.)


PIC 4 = Inside of rear with room. If you mount a switch you need to do it high or low if the pins stick out the back otherwise you will have clearance issues.


All holes were done with a hobby knife and small metal files. You could taper holes but you just need to be patient. Especially with the rectangle anderson connector sockets !!!

This casing had to resemble some 'professional' quality. I think I've kept that. Let's wait and see what it looks like once painted and it's all wired up.



The case allows me to run an external controller (if I add the Cyclone motor) among many other accessories, but the main use is to reduce the cables from front to rear of the bike and any looping.

[MonkeyMagic]

Chain on....

Fought with a half link and basically 'butchered' 2 bicycle chains to fit my KMC chain...

It should hold up.

Had to add 2 freewheel washers for the tyre clearance, hence if I choose to go with my auto gear change mod I can only run say 3 of 5 or 6 gears.... I'd rather that and keep this tyre I have taken quite a liking to it

**Attached, a text file of some guff I took out of this bombardment of a topic post

[MonkeyMagic]

Okay so I've done some work today

I'm going to replace the chain, as it feels like it sticks slightly, and it sooo tight I honestly think I will break it.

When I ran an allignment measure, it sits about 1 or 2mm off centre from the crank sprocket. This could lead to problems, and I can only fix it by shaving down a freewheel spacer washer to the right width, or run a derailleur which I will probably end up doing, and just running 70% of the gears.

Luckily I don't see myself pedalling much!

Cyclone motor could possibly be completely out of the question for top speed mod, as I connected a meter to my rear wheel and spun it as fast as I possibly could with the pedals - the meter hit 66V !!!

So if I decide to do it, I could do a rediculous tri-drive accelerating bike that will top out around 50km/h on 20" wheels, or design the build to switch off the phase wires inside the hubs based on wheel speed, and continue to use the Cyclone motor for top end (upto around 70km/h I'm guessing with the drag involved)

Anyway, some pics of what I did to fit this tyre in there. I'll make a video of this spinning as it seems to jerk a bit. Maybe my tyre is too heavy??

Without accurate measurements, I think possibly my rear axle dropout is not centred perfectly with me spacing it out with washers. I had to squeeze my bike frame with a vice (and some persistance from a hammer) on the one part the tyre rubbed slightly against the frame.

This made me think --- Is my wheel not true??? I thought these tyres were PERFECT?? Whats going on??? My head starts to get scratched.....

Looking VERY closely as the bead seat position of the tyre, it seems to vary slightly (nothing like a standard BMX tyre) on one side, so when spinning the wheel it does not spin perfectly straight, sort of wobbles a bit and seems out of alignment.

Watching my disc brake rotor and the top lip of the rim it seems VERY true so it points me back to the tyre....

As much as I love it, I may have to change it to the 2.5" but we will see !!!

PIC 1 = rear axle dropout, see the old vice I used to squeeze the steel on the right of the frame, you will see left is round, and on the right is flatter where I squished it


PIC 2 = chain alignment, should hold up, but want to replace the chain


PIC 3 = damage to rear torque plate. Can GUARANTEE my wheel would not have stayed on/or spun the axles without these.


PIC 4 = underneath bike, horn and stand mount, space for external controller.




Still will use the torque plates, they are 5mm thick steel from old shelf brackets. Works well.

[Andrew]

Wow Monkey! BIB BIG write up, almost as big as those tyres of yours    

It's currently too late for me to give this thread a proper read in detail, but your bike is definately the work of a mad man.  I will have to give it my full attention in the light of day. 

Saturday is an adventure for me, heading East into England to meet up with another mad man,, The Legendary "DirtyGinge". If i'm not home by tea time.....  phone the Rozzers!

[Bikemad]

Monkey, your build seems to be progressing very nicely, and it's good to see you've finally found the charger for your camera!
At least now we get to see some pictures again.

I connected a meter to my rear wheel and spun it as fast as I possibly could with the pedals - the meter hit 66V !!!

66V, is that all? I managed 77V with mine! 

Check out this post regarding my concerns on the same problem.

Anyway, some pics of what I did to fit this tyre in there. I'll make a video of this spinning as it seems to jerk a bit. Maybe my tyre is too heavy??

It might just need balancing. Try sticking a lump of plasticine on the rim and then spin the wheel, then move it to another position and spin it again to see if it makes the jerking worse or better. If you are able to find the right spot, try adding or removing plasticine to see if you can improve it.

Alan
 

[MonkeyMagic]

Hey hey

YESSS I found my charger LOL
I was going to post a whole topic just about finding my charger haha

Having a big think last night, I think rather than risking anything I might hold onto my Cyclone kit and possibly do something when higher voltage internal MP's come out....

Today I'll be doing a heap more soldering and maybe working on the handlebars and accessories....

Getting there !!!

About a week off I reckon

[MonkeyMagic]

Try sticking a lump of plasticine on the rim and then spin the wheel
Alan

Thats a really good idea mate, cheers.

I was ready to goto a tyre centre to check the wheel !!!!!

I'll post my findings. Cheers

[GM Canada]

This is some project! Glad to see pictures again. I guess you cleaned up all those bottles laying around.

Gary

[GM Canada]

Now that I have had more time to look through this thread I think I have to side with andrew. If you intend to add a cyclone motor to this bike you are crazy! This thing will almost fly with the two 20 inch mp's! Impressive work though!

[MonkeyMagic]

Changed my design AGAIN lol I have to stop thinking...

But it HAS turned out for the better. I rebuilt the split GM pack, and now have a mount I've made for under the frame. Yup thats correct, I have a dual frame mount for my dual drive

This retains all of the room in the middle of the bike for a custom stereo, or more batteries, or 2 x external controllers, or a peltier plate to seat 4 tasty beverages who knows!

Updates??

1. Custom camera bracket mounted under seat bolts onto existing mounts
2. Retrofitted pit bike fender (I think its a rear one??) on the front
3. Near everything is BLACK now including the GM cases I have baking in the sun
4. Removed 'quick release' seat post bolt and replaced with another bracket I made for the tail-light
5. Some other funky fenders prepared, painted and ready to pre-wire

This bike is starting to look tough !

Biggest job comes next, wiring the modded GM cases ready for plug 'n' play.... I think I'll put this off til the weekend...

[GM Canada]

Really looking more awesome everytime I see more pictures. I love the new front fender too. What is that from? A motorcycle. I also love the camera. You are getting me thinking as well. I ride in alot of traffic in my commute. The camera would be awesome with an lcd screen on the handlebars. Is that your intention?

Gary

BTW - My son looked at the pictures with me and he wants me to build him a "Monkey bike" too!

[MonkeyMagic]

G'day mate

Yes, it's a fender set I found on ebay for around $20 including shipping, its not in my history anymore but the one I just found now is this link if you can be bothered searching for the same type you can get it for around $20 the set

Same with a car disc brake caliper cover set I changed my mind from using it on my car to using it on the bike lol to cover wires and other messy stuff with them. I changed the bolts (that are real on those covers) to chrome led holders, so my turn signals come from them too.

The camera I've been using since the original dual drive build (with 'sporty' low pedal height.... lol) and it works terrific!

Just at a glance I can see in both directions behind me, without swerving all over the place. Normally I can keep the bike very straight, but riding in that old build was very touchy. So the idea of this new build was too also improve the handling etc. which again has surprisingly worked out sensational. It's just good to have an idea what's behind you without the time it takes to turn ones head. Travelling at speed this is ideal.

These pics are from the old build, I have a new "housing" for this lcd that I'll post pics coming sooooon...

cheers

**edit > anything out of view of the camera is next to you, and you can 'feel' or see them with your peripheral vision easily

[MonkeyMagic]

Rear fender wired and fitted... It was a complete pain in the ass I'll tell ya!

And it supposed to be a front fender for a pit bike, but I felt it was better suited on the rear with another 'front' mtb fender protecting another quarter of the wheel.

It should keep most of the spray away should I ever get in the rain. I used liquid electrical tape first to seat the cathode tubes (out of a PC casing I found on the side of the road!) for a brake light and used a cut SMD for side turn signals.

Heres some more pics of the rear