Author Topic: Magic Pie versus Complete Novice (A Long Winded U.K Review)Sexy photos inside!!  (Read 40432 times)

Offline Andrew

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I thought I’d post this review in the PIE discussion section, but please feel free to move to the review area.

Warning, long post, please feel free to scroll down for some sexy (over 18 only) photos of my pride n joy.  ;D



Magic Pie versus Complete Novice (A Long Winded U.K Review)
Ok, I’ve finally got my Golden Motor Magic Pie Kit up and running so I thought I would post up a thread on my overall experience from purchasing to receipt to build. I will also give my first impressions of functions, features and performance.

First, a bit about myself.  I  am a Teacher of Creative Arts educating children and young adults. I predominantly teach 16 to 18 year olds at advanced level Art and Design preparing them for University and Higher Education.

This is my first conversion kit, in fact it’s my first ever experience with an electric bike. I have little if any skill or knowledge of electronics and have a school boy understanding of electricity. In fact I’m not sure what I’ve got myself into.

Reasons for wanting and needing an E-bike. 
1. I’m trying to get more active. 
2. I live within E-bike commuting distance to my work place.
3. The price of Petrol. - I have another less environmentally friendly hobby which comes in the form of a heavily modified 353bhp/385ftlbs of torque light weight Subaru Impreza WRX STI Spec C, imported from Japan, which I use on track when ever I get the chance. By the way this car does 18mpg on road and about 9mpg on track and runs on super unleaded 99ron fuel. So as you can see I’m trying to off set this guilty pleasure and save a bit of money on daily commutes.
4. Finally, I usually dive head first into things in order to learn new skills and knowledge. I walked into this whole thing with eyes wide shut!  I’m a bit of a ‘buy now research later’ kind of guy.

The bike being converted is a specialized Stump jumper, an extravagant gift to myself whilst out in Colorado a few years ago, the bike has hardly seen any use in the last couple of years so I could find no better way to ‘bring it back to life’ than by Frankensteining  it with a bit of electricity. Yeah!



The bike before the conversion.








Purchasing
All in all it took 16 days for the kit to arrive on my doorstep in the UK from the date I made the payment on GM’s website. I inadvertently made the purchase at the beginning of a Chinese national holiday. The total time the Kit was in transit between China and my doorstep was only 6 days.



Tom at GM
 
Tom kept me in the picture over the above mentioned period supplying me first with an EMS tracking number and then (on request) with a TNT tracking number when this company took charge of my parcel. Tom was also on the side of the customer when valuing the kit for customs charges ;-)

Receiving the parcel  
The kit was well packed and everything ordered was present. However, when removing the Magic Pie wheel there was a 3 inch tear in the wheel rim. How this could have been overlooked during manufacture or when the rim was spoked was quite unnerving. It was at this point that I began wondering whether I should have paid a large premium and purchased from a UK distributor. 
I contacted Tom at GM who was quick to reply offering to send a new wheel rim.
Thankfully due to help on this forum I was able to contact a UK company who use GM parts for electric wheel chair assemblies. They some what surprisingly supplied me with a replacement rim free of charge. ?



Building the kit.  
The kit was easy to assemble if using patience and the right tools. The mechanical parts are a straight forward swap over and the electrical parts are well coloured and labelled. However, as I was having to get the wheel rim re-spoked and being a complete novice with electronics I handed over my bike and the kit to a local E-Bike retailer, electrical engineer and enthusiast ‘Jeff’ at   www.fullchargeahead.com/   . It was here that my bike was fully set-up with detailed attention given to cable location and even more importantly the secure fitment of the rear Magic Pie axle into very shallow  rear dropouts that were designed for quick release spindles. This was resolved by having two bespoke washers made that sat in and filled the opening of the dropout disallowing axle movement. I hope to add a torque arm too but the one I’ve bought needs filing out to fit the big GM threaded axle.


Functions and features
With a total of three handle bar buttons supplied with the kit there are plenty of wiring options, although I would like to fit a hidden switch to enable me to limit the speed and output of the motor if ever caught in a sticky situation.

1. Buttons.
The only button I’m currently using is for cruise control. I would like to have an ignition button and hope to use the red button on the throttle body.

2. Regenerative Braking. Set at 40% it’s gentle, it does its job without being intrusive or abrupt but I am planning on fitting hydraulic disc brakes as I like my brakes sharp and sensitive, whether I do away with regen all together or maybe be use a button to activate it  I’m not sure.

3. Cruise Control.  Much more useful than I thought it was going to be.  I will use this continuously whilst riding.


Performance
Full Set-up…….
26” magic Pie Rear wheel kit
48v 12ah Golden Motor battery
Currently running controller on 48v and 40% regenerative braking.


GPS with Tom Tom Sat Nav (no pedalling) = 22-24mph on flat road with slight tail wind
                                                                          17mph with slight head wind
                                                                          27mph going down hill
                                                                          15mph going up hill
                                                                           My weight = 85 -90 kg’s
                                                                            Bike weight 10kg’s
                                                                            Kit weight 13 kg’s approx

The above speeds were recorded with a standard GM 48v 12ah Lithium Manganese Battery with the controller set to 48 volts.


1. Take-off. Very smooth on take-off from a standing start with throttle only although the motor is slow to wind up. There is no crazy initial acceleration. The plus side, the front end of my bike which is very light does not try and leave the ground. The minus side, I would like a swift takeoff for busy junctions and for out launching the Lycra bike riders  :D . The take off may change a bit if I change the controller voltage to 24, but that is next on the list to test.

2. Hill climbing. Very impressive when already at speed, but the motor struggles to maintain momentum if a ‘run up to the hill’ is not possible.



3. Motor Noise. I was dreading how loud the motor would be, but once you are up and running it’s fine. On take off it’s slightly louder but overall it’s not at all loud, in fact the word loud should not be in this statement, it’s quiet, but not silent, just reminiscent of a distant milk float. It has turned a few heads when out and about but I cannot hear it myself when up to speed.


4. Motor size. It is hard to hide the size of it, a GM HBS motor would have been more discreet and part of my initial plan was for discreetness. So if you do add up the motors sound with the size then maybe there are other similarly powered motors out there which are quieter and smaller.





Overall Verdict
It’s Fantastic!
It’s not as fast as advertised but it’s fast enough for a push bike and it’s great to be able to still pedal without having to make too much effort. I’ve also been pleasantly surprised by how easy it is to cycle the bike with no motor assistance. There is drag and the take off is an effort but once you’ve got momentum it’s fine to ride as a normal bike.
The only big design issue I have with DIY e-bikes is that weight distribution and centre of gravity are not good.    These issues really need solving on a manufacturing design scale. For instance, having a battery pack within the frame nice and neat would solve both of the above problems.  I want a bike that is neat and tidy and the PIE with an internal controller is certainly forward thinking in this design area but there is still more to solve.


Regrets…
1. I wish now that I purchased the external controller, or even gone for a different higher amp controller. As this would have given me more future options and would make it much easier to modify a kit for more power or to replace the controller unit.
2. Should have I bought the kit from a UK distributor and paid over £150.00 GBP extra for a UK warranty? I will answer that question if something goes wrong with the kit in the next 12 months ;-)
3. Should I have gone for a 1000w HBS kit? Hmmm?



Would I recommend this for a starter kit?  Most definitely, it makes cycling 100% fun without any of the draw backs and it makes commuting pleasurable.

Final costs
DIY kit including Battery and airmail delivery = £620 GBP/ $960 USD (Sept-28-2010)
TNT Customs charges = £30.00 GBP
Total set-up including mechanical and electrical locating,  new gear lever shifters, gear adjustment, bespoke fabricated washers, repoking of Golden Motor wheel, testing of kit and delivery = £150.00GBP

There were a couple of other small costs such as frame bag and cassette.


                    Anyway, here’s the bit you’ve been scrolling down to find……………….

                                                      THE PHOTOS!
























My bespoke battery cover



Pie Hidder







Thanks for looking

Andrew :)
 
« Last Edit: July 26, 2017, 03:09:43 PM by Bikemad »

Offline GM Canada

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Top Notch Review Andrew!

Thank you for sharing your experience.

Gary

Offline MonkeyMagic

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Andrew ripper review mate !!!

Your ride is stealthy and looks to be a sneaky beast. Have fun with your carbon offsetting champ ;)

Offline Andrew

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Thanks,  ;D  The bike and review has been a long time coming. Now my better half wants in on the action so I may be soon contacting you Gary to try and strike a deal  ;)


Andrew

Offline Leslie

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Good review and sweet ride.  Very nice hard tail.  Good choice of bike style for conversion the hardtails are.

Do you have the program cable, get the software up and click get config and post what comes up.

We may be able to get you much better performance on the hills without modding anything other than the software.  I can get 22+mph towing stuff up hills and close to 27mph on flats, my motor only gets warm a little..
« Last Edit: November 19, 2010, 09:22:48 PM by 317537 »

Bring it on

Offline Andrew

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ok. the controller software is set to 48v and is on max 50A current and 30 cont. I was going to change the voltage to 24 this weekend to see if it will make any difference. keeping an eye on motor temps of course..  I will post the present setup on saturday :)

Offline Leslie

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ok. the controller software is set to 48v and is on max 50A current and 30 cont. I was going to change the voltage to 24 this weekend to see if it will make any difference. keeping an eye on motor temps of course..  I will post the present setup on saturday :)

Your performance behaves more like 18A max and 12A cont but even still this would please a new commer.

I must compliment you on the research you did around before you recieved your kit, has this made your bike building easier and better?

Be sure to know your battery limits too if you bypass your contoller LVC setting with the 24v setting.  The BMS should cut out before cell damage anyways.  Its prolly best not not discharge your pack below 75% capacity if you can manage this as the battery will live longer and be easier to charge and keep in good balance.

Dont push the pack too hard before it cycles in, maybe leave the bike this 48v setting for 2 weeks to break the battery in before you push the systems performance.

You may notice better speed up hills at the 24v setting, but not much more on take offs.   You really have to test the bike out with the 26" wheel to notice the performance enhancement of the 24v setting. But it is a considerable improvement but just doesnt stick out so obvious.

Bring it on

Offline MonkeyMagic

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Hmm I dunno I have to contest there Les!

Have no clue why we get different performance from the settings changes...
For example = my rear wheel was always a bit 'dull' and when I replaced the internal controller is now insane.

Changing from 48v to 24v for me, single or dual drive the difference was like WOW
I notice if anything a slightly less top speed (48v seemed to 'wind' out more)

Take off 100% better than 48v
Hills the same

If I take off hard in a slippy surface the front wheel spins up crazy and the back fishtails a bit while taking off, fun stuff!!!

Wheel spin on front even leaning forward anytime on takeoff, any road surface haha I think I need better tyres


I haven't changed back lol


Offline Leslie

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Yeah the 20" wheel would make a difference at 0kph take offs..

Even with a shunt mod at 50 amps the 26" wheel and 6 fets take offs controller are not wheel spin flip the bike stuff.

I get a lot of mid to high rpm torque. It goes like a train up hills at full throttle.

At 50 amps max the take offs are more than acceptable and, at 30 amps max I can sit at the lights and keep up with a sluggish vehicle up to 37kph.

And before the mod and 24v setting It was like shiss.  I notice since the shunt mod, that the 24v setting is way less effective and prolly no reason top uise it.  I set mine back to 48v.


Bring it on

Offline MonkeyMagic

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check - and mate........ :D

Offline Leslie

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No-no not checkmate.  

The two wheel sizes operate differently and perform different too.  Your wheel has to wind up this RPM to get KPH and at top speed this could show where my pie has great response.

And over long distances the higher RPM of the smaller wheel can take away from the pack.  I can get 60+km range from a 15ah pack.   I did an efficiency test and I used 50 watts for 5kms.  This can equate to 78km range from my 780 watt pack, the fact I only use 33% of my capacity, this can add to the life expectancy to my 1000 cycle lifpo.

I am hopinmg this pack lives over 3 years. If I was to add my 20ah pack to the bike Id have 182km range at this 10wh per KM.

If I take it carefull on the throttle I could do these distances as far as the CA is concerned (regen).

And tyre and bearing wear, freewheel resistance is less on the larger wheels per meter.  With no regen I can roll over 100 meters and in most cases momntum is a more efficient means of storing energy than electrical conversion.  

The motor seems to be cogging way less than when it was new.  

Ande the last thing is bike compatability.  Most MTB can take a 26" pie.  Youre skilled and lucky to pull off a BMX dual pie like that.

And now we face the dual vs single competition.  I will have a dual pies very soon, except it will be on two bikes not one.

I will put a picture up side by side a single bike with a dual pie and "my two single Pies"  >:( and you will see my Monkey friend, soon enough..  :P

So its not an open and shut case when it comes to wheel size or $ value vs dual and single machines.


« Last Edit: November 20, 2010, 07:08:46 AM by 317537 »

Bring it on

Offline Andrew

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You two are mad when you both get going  ::)  :D :D

Who would have thought that so many small factors would make such big differences.

Les,  thanks for the heads up on battery maintenence. I will let the battery 'wear in' a bit longer before changing the voltage. 

Excuse my lack of understanding but what is meant by 'the motors cogging'  and how does it effect motor performance and bike pedalling.??? :-\

Andrew :)

Offline Andrew

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 I understand that the max and cont. Currents are much more limited than the controller suggests.

           
« Last Edit: July 26, 2017, 03:13:08 PM by Bikemad »

Offline Leslie

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Your only option is to click that 24v button and maybe take he max and cont down to 30AM 20AC and raise it slowly 5 amps at a time until you think your power is better.-

And you weigh 10kg more than me, but I feel  I can go 23mph up hills with a trailer with 10kg of milk in the back it evens out.  Its just 17mph is slow.

Hey make sure your tires are pumped hard too.  This can give you much more range and better speed performances.


If youre going 25mph up hills this maybe too much.  From my experiences a good speed up hills for the internal controllers on the 26" wheel is between 21 and 23mph.  25mph up up hills is crazy amps and the motor does get a lot more warm.

My max on flats with an updraft wind is (43kph) 27 mph and down hills (46kph) 28.5 mph.


Its going to be hard to get your wheel safely up to speed without a watt meter.  But you can do it.
« Last Edit: November 20, 2010, 10:18:36 AM by 317537 »

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Offline Leslie

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You two are mad when you both get going  ::)  :D :D

Who would have thought that so many small factors would make such big differences.

Les,  thanks for the heads up on battery maintenence. I will let the battery 'wear in' a bit longer before changing the voltage.  

Excuse my lack of understanding but what is meant by 'the motors cogging'  and how does it effect motor performance and bike pedalling.??? :-\

Andrew :)

Cogging is motor resistance when youre rolling with no electric assist. The MP seems to lose a little stiffness after a while of use.  When you release the throttle low cogging makes the bike more efficient in using the momentum stored.

With a 26" wheel it has to spin less than a 20" wheel for the same KM traveled and a larger wheel diameter has a stronger torque over this cogging resistance so any resistance has less RPM to encounter on the larger wheels.

Another heads up is keep that new pack on the charger for a few days so all the cells are balanced.  Everything works so much snappier when the cells all have an even capacity of charge and you will ensure you don't LVC the new pack in the first week.
« Last Edit: November 20, 2010, 10:34:13 AM by 317537 »

Bring it on