Thanks for the tip Alan. I thought about that, and that since the hall sensor initial problem the wheel never seemed to have any power compared to the front motor I received.
Luckily when I bought the front motor I also purchased 3 GM hall sensors just in case
I also have a few throttles, do you think they are the same sensor?
Tonight I removed the rear wheel and changed it with a bmx rear, I guess that's another bonus of having dual drive is you can change the wheel not working for a standard one and at least have some pie enjoyment. I must say it is SUCH a massive difference now with just one motor now!! lol
Tomorrow I'll pull the 20" apart and hunt around for any signs of grief.
Can you Alan, (or anyone) tell me a good way to test the FET's to see which is failed. I was thinking continuity and checking between the pins? I did this on the blown 16" wheel controller and found all but 2 FET's had continuity between the PINS.
So that springs another question, if the 20" wheel when I open it has blown FET's, and hopefully just 1 or 2 at the worst... Should I be best to remove the FET's I think are good from the old blown controller from the other wheel and install them in the 20" controller? I think that should be a go-er
"
thanks again