Howdy
Just took some pics to post in another topic, so I thought I would share them here.
For those who don't trust their bike frame like me, and want some added safety. Here is an easy way to implement a torque arm/plate to your ride. This method is a fitted plate bolted to the rear bike frame axle plate that's welded to your frame, really it's suited for steel frame bikes or bikes that do not have a special rear drop out. Your bike also needs either rear rack mounts, disc brake caliper mounts or if none of the above you need to work out if you can drill bolt holes in the flat area the plate will be [see the pics below to see what I'm talking about]
Why do people do this? Well I've seen in person what an electric wheel can do to a bike rear drop out axle: regardless of quality of the bike frame, the tread on the wheel axle basically acts as blades when immense force is put on the axle dropout. This occurs most applying regen brakes at speed generally down a steep hill, but also can happen at take off or a applying rear brakes heavily; locking up the wheel.
How to:
-Get a thick piece of steel. [Even use a thick shelf bracket, or double up. You want at least 3-4mm. The thicker the better]
-Align the plate onto your frame dropout and mark the angle the wheel axle sits at.
-Using the fitted washer that came with your wheel, trace the inside on your piece of steel where the hole will be
-Drill a 10mm hole in your piece of steel where the axle will fit through
-Here is the patience part... Make sure you don't drink too much beer before this; With a small file, file out the hole to the fitted size of the axle [14mm, so 2mm rounded each side] -- I did this by clamping the washer behind the hole and filing it out just a little smaller than the washer hole> Creating a really tight fit. The tighter the better. Keep checking your plate to fit or jiggle tightly onto your wheel axle. Be patient!
-If you have made left + right plates like I did, label them for your upcoming reference. [Do it on the inside, 'cos I did outside now I want to paint it haha]
-When the plate fits (and you smile), get a small pencil lead or something and mark the holes behind the brake caliper/parcel rack holes
-Drill the bolt holes in your plate(s)
-Bolt up those bad boys and check the plate sits snugly on your frame. Also check you have plenty of beer in the fridge.
-When you are happy, take the plate(s) off and paint them to your bike color.
-When dry, fit them up and find someone to high 5. Then remove the beer from the fridge and consume... Don't drink and ride though!!
Here's the pics. I don't forsee any problem with this method apart from the possibility of completely snapping the weld at the rear drop out on the bike frame... Pretty unlikely... This also looks neater, painting it to your bike color you wouldn't really guess it was there. I grinded my plate to fit the rear dropout area pretty well. This also serves a purpose should the plate somehow shift around it will also have the bike frame to hit on. Anyways I don't see why people are paying $20-$40+ for a piece of steel then fixing using hoseclamps. If you don't have bolt holes fair enough, but I did this in around an hour.
There are however, some good products for front forks you can buy that require hose or similar clamps as drilling hole will destroy the forks strenth. IMO torque arms are a rule of thumb for front forks.
Not criticising anyone! But don't use a hardened wrench or a spanner or anything, then hose clamp it whatever to your frame. Of course there are some that have worked for ages and suit the rider but I've seen in forums when they fail and just aks yourself; how many shifters[spanners] have you snapped using your hands? I've snapped heaps! Maybe keep that in mind.
Pics:
