Got New Pie Today

[Leslie]

Another word for command is order.  You place an order for a kit.

They actually mean the same but one has a more militant ring to it.  I like command you to give me PIE!  

[diverdon]

None of the Magic Pies are supplied by GM with radial lacing, but some of the more recent Pies have been fitted with a revised motor ring to allow correct centring of the rim. These new motor rings also incorporate a modified spoke fixing layout, which allows the angle of the spokes (from perpendicular) to be more like those found on standard wheels with conventional hubs:

   Revised Motor Ring .. I wonder if this is avaliable to the public .. It would be cool if it was .. Perhaps I need to P.M. Mr. Yao and ask him ... Does anyone else have a clue to the answer to this question .. Thanks , Don

[GoldenMotor]

We have revised MagicPie steel ring, shaft, aluminimum side covers after we read the proposals from Alan (Bikemad) and fellow forumers. So all new shipment are almost aligned in center of bike fork and spoked according to Bikemad's suggestion. We did test the strength of new way of rim spoking and 2mm spokes, all went well.

Many thanks to all your support and feedback which are very important to us for continuous product improvements.

   

[Bikemad]

Oh by the way, has anyone noticed that the cables for the throttle, cruise etc were about a mile too long for a pie installation??? 

Not if you are fitting it to a tandem with high handlebars.

As it's a universal kit, it has to be suitable for a large variety of bikes, and I think it is much better that the leads are long.
Imagine how you'd feel if the cables they supplied were too short instead of too long!

Do you think they would be long enough for this?:



Alan
 

[diverdon]

We have revised MagicPie steel ring, shaft, aluminimum side covers after we read the proposals from Alan (Bikemad) and fellow forumers. So all new shipment are almost aligned in center of bike fork and spoked according to Bikemad's suggestion. We did test the strength of new way of rim spoking and 2mm spokes, all went well.

Many thanks to all your support and feedback which are very important to us for continuous product improvements.

  Hello , So ... Please ... Please ... Please ... Is it possable to buy the parts to convert the older off center wheels to the centered ones .. Please ...

      I would like to go with a larger tire ... I have a 700 X 38c now .. The original Tire for this bike was 700 X 40c and I'd like to use a 700 X 45c .. I have compensated by using an older steel frame .. (I liked better anyhow) and widening 1 side like Leslie? suggested to do .. But it still is a little off center ..

    Please P.M. me with the cost to get this Magic Pie assembly centered up ... thanks for listening here .. Don

[o00scorpion00o]

Oh by the way, has anyone noticed that the cables for the throttle, cruise etc were about a mile too long for a pie installation??? 

Not if you are fitting it to a tandem with high handlebars.

As it's a universal kit, it has to be suitable for a large variety of bikes, and I think it is much better that the leads are long.
Imagine how you'd feel if the cables they supplied were too short instead of too long!

Do you think they would be long enough for this?:



Alan
 

Fair enough, lol. How about a long or short cable option when ordering the pie? 

[Leslie]

Dfmerrifield thought of this idea.

Sorry it took so long!  Damn digital camera is so touchy, you can't see the pick but smudges.  So, had to use the cell phone and I use windows 7 with office 2007 and somewhere along the line *&%$# it's a bitch to finally get the pic's off the memory card.  Then change the pic format.  Pain in the you know what!!

Anyway, here it is.

It is sincerly thoughtfull of GM to consider the longer bikes, but I will say how many long bikes compared to short bikes.  Who are GM catering to here?

Nice ride coming along there o00scorpion00o.

Maybe give the tip of that valve connector a file, you may be able to get the thread a little closer to the schrader stem.  

[diverdon]

We have revised MagicPie steel ring, shaft, aluminimum side covers after we read the proposals from Alan (Bikemad) and fellow forumers. So all new shipment are almost aligned in center of bike fork and spoked according to Bikemad's suggestion. We did test the strength of new way of rim spoking and 2mm spokes, all went well.

Many thanks to all your support and feedback which are very important to us for continuous product improvements.

   

So Yao ,

                  Please can you sell me the parts needed to upgrade the Magic Pie to the centered wheel like your putting out now ... Please , Please , Pretty Please , .... With Sugar on top ...

     I'D like to put a wider tire on mine this bike originally had a 40c wide tire and now has a 38c tire.. Want to try a 45c and run lower pressure for a more comfortable ride

  Thanks for your help , Don J.

[o00scorpion00o]

hello again. Okay I found a tube with an extended valve, yepeeeeee!!! I brought the bike up to my friend that I sold my old kit to to use his battery. Connected up went for a spin. 35-40kph max. I was not really happy as the old motor went faster with faster acceleration and seems to have more torque.

The cycle analyst tells me the motor is pulling a max of 700 watts around 14-15 amps max. That's half what the old motor pulled.

Now the controller is set at 48v max amps. So I am now thinking that the controller is limiting the power somehow. As, correct me if I'm wrong, but 52 volts @ 14 amps is around 720 watts? So 52 volts @ 30 amps should be around 1500 watts, maybe slightly over. So that means the Magic Pie is only 700 watts not 1000 as advertised!

This is a real shame as I was looking for at least the same power as my old 1000w motor, Does anyone know how I can set the controller for more amps? as the software does not allow it to go beyond 14 amps and so must be limited by firmware, Even though it's turned to max!

[Leslie]

Ok cool youre up and running.

Do you have the usb program cable or does it wiork with your pie?


Its more like 52v*20 amps for a average constant of 1000 watts.  Honestly you should be able to get more than 40kph even with a 15a draw.  

Not many bikes need all that current to keep get and keep a speed up I go faster than you at 48v with 15a max draw,  

So I'd do a run of the mill check for the usual things that slow your bike down.  Like tire pressure and brakes centred and stuff.

Then you want the promissed amps.  Check the program of the controller if you can.  Then maybe do a high load test on that battery at 25 amps to see if there is a weak spot in the cells or BMS.  

Check connections and stuff.  

Yiou do appear like you know what to do but just in case I will post this anyway.

Good luck.

[Leslie]

I do not trust CA and stuff.

A lot of folk going around thinking there bikes do 1500 watts because it says it on the ca. Doh!  I don't know, maybe I'm not seeing the big deal here about CA and a couple of $7 multi meters and some brains is much better.

If your bike is doing better average wattage this is better than a massive peak to fool eyes you about the true power.  

Id rather a bike that can do 1000 watts cont than be pulling down the pack to death with current up and down like all over the place like a yo yo.  People will allow that extra 10 amps for a split second in acceleration that really does SFA to give them power as it just wasted and stresses the hell out of everything.

[o00scorpion00o]

Ok cool youre up and running.

Do you have the usb program cable or does it wiork with your pie?


Its more like 52v*20 amps for a average constant of 1000 watts.  Honestly you should be able to get more than 40kph even with a 15a draw.  

Not many bikes need all that current to keep get and keep a speed up I go faster than you at 48v with 15a max draw,  

So I'd do a run of the mill check for the usual things that slow your bike down.  Like tire pressure and brakes centred and stuff.

Then you want the promissed amps.  Check the program of the controller if you can.  Then maybe do a high load test on that battery at 25 amps to see if there is a weak spot in the cells or BMS.  

Check connections and stuff.  

Yiou do appear like you know what to do but just in case I will post this anyway.

Good luck.

HI 317537. I have checked everything I can think of. I even put my cycle analyst on my friends bike and his on mine, same story. And yes I have the usb cable. The default settings when I received the kit was set for max amps. but the voltage was set for 24 volts. I changed it to 48 before I hooked it up to the battery.

The only thing I can think of is that the controller is set to some limit of around 14 amps and that's it, no matter if you have usb cable or not 14 amps is all she will take. And another reason I believe this is that if you turn up the amps you should see more amps drawn on the cycle analyst, and as I said earlier that at 30 amps @52 volts it should be around 1500 watts. My old system was set to around 20 amps and it pulled around 1050 watts, had better acceleration and top speed.

[Bikemad]

Are you sure the usb link is changing the controller setting?

Try reducing the "Continuous Amps" setting to 5 or 10Amps and see if it makes any measurable difference, just to see whether the usb interface is actually changing the controller parameters.

Alan
 

[Leslie]

Have you tried the new pack on the old motor or the new motor on the old pack or have you covered this by using the same pack for both.

See this is where you may need to get your hands dirty and do a load test on the battery if a different pack has been used on either hubs.

If the winding connections in the motor are not soldered properly you can lose a parrallel (p) winding, but such a coincidence of having one p connection lose on each phase or even two winding connections would be rare and a single missing p winding would to my knowledge still trigger a max amp reading on the CA.

A short in the winding can render two p windings inadequate, I would still start from the pack and move my way to the motor.  

A loose p connection in a cell block can limit current and create more problems down the track, si it is important to find the bottle neck in your system.


How is the efficiency of your rides.  At 15 amps if the motor and pack is fine you shoiuld get giood range still?

[Leslie]

Are you sure the usb link is changing the controller setting?

Try reducing the "Continuous Amps" setting to 5 or 10Amps and see if it makes any measurable difference, just to see whether the usb interface is actually changing the controller parameters.

Alan
 

Is this to see if the bike goes real slooooowwwwww on hills and stuff to see if the controller usb link is effective?

Good advice there Alan.