I have found this thread (http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?topic=2224.0 ) in which Alan says 5 beeps mean low voltage. I 'll measure that as soon as I am back.
Loic, thanks for the reply.
It was actually Tom from GM who said 5 beeps meant low voltage, but I'm not convinced. The default setting for these controllers should allow 24, 36 and 48V batteries to be used, so unless your battery voltage was below the
LVC for a 24V battery it should still work if the controller was still OK.
(which is extremely doubtful)As both of your controllers appear to have failed, this seems too much of a coincidence, and I think there's a good chance that the cause of the problem lies somewhere in the wiring or even the hub itself. Assuming the battery power leads have not been connected reverse polarity at any point!
Send an email to Tom
(zhourenli@goldenmotor.com) and briefly explain that your replacement controller gives 5 Beeps and the wheel does not turn easily without disconnecting the thick motor wires, and see what he says.
I would also check to see if you have ~5V between the
H+/5v and the
H-/0V connection on the controller
(try each of the controllers again) with
just the battery power leads connected.
If neither of the controllers are producing a 5V output, don't waste any more time trying to do the following checks, as they cannot be done without the 5V supply! If you are getting a reading of ~5V, try plugging in the other connectors one at a time and watch the meter to see if the ~5V remains constant.
If there is a short in the wiring (throttle, pedelec unit or hall sensors etc.), I would expect the 5V Voltage supply to drop completely as soon as the connector from the faulty wiring is plugged in.
If you still have 5V with the hall sensors plugged in, it should be possible to check the operation of each of the three hall sensors:
Push the black meter probe into the rear of the connector on the H
-/0V connection and then put the red probe into the Yellow
(Ha) hall sensor wire and then rotate the motor very slowly by hand, if you can turn the wheel slow enough, you should be able to see the meter reading changing between ~0V and ~5V.
Repeat this test using the Green
(Hb) and Blue
(Hc) hall sensor wires to check those as well.
If one of the sensors remains at 0V
(assuming the H+/5V Red lead is ~5V) or doesn't drop below ~5V, then the sensor
(or its wiring) will be faulty.
Which voltage do you guys usually have for 48v batteries ?
You should get a reading of around 54.5V from a fully charged 48V GM battery.
Alan 
