Cycle analyst

[GM Canada]

I think I may be starting to actually loose my mind. I took the casing off my CA. I can't find J6 on my 2.2 motherboard. R6 is clearly marked. Do I just solder a jumper on that? Can someone point it out to me? Thanks.

I just went out and opened my CA V2.1 up, R6 is the one I jumped. I also opened a v2.2 just to check and the R6 is still in the same spot. Did I say J6 somewhere. I think thats a flashback to building PC's. Sorry...

Gary

[Dennyb123]

Well went out earlier to The Source and picked up a mini diode and 330 ohm resistors. Soldered them in place. Since I don't have lights on my bike, I hooked up the button in between the throttle over ride and the diode. This way I can turn the throttle over ride off and on easily. As soon as I got confirmation that it was the R6 resistor to solder across on the CA circuit board, I went a head and did so. I then threw everything back together half ass and went for a spin to test everything. Everything actually worked!!!

I must say. I never thought with my limited knowledge in circuitry, I would ever take something that costs $160 (Cycle Analyst) apart and start soldering stuff. Then with zero knowledge of resistors and diodes (except for research I did this morning on the internet), start wiring them into my nearly new e-bike. All this being done using advice and direction from a group of complete strangers I've never even met. But it works, thanks to you guys on this forum.


YOU GUYS ROCK!!!

[GM Canada]

YOU GUYS ROCK!!!

I know! I love this forum too! The thanks go back to Alan too as he came up with the 330 ohm resistor and the jumper on R6. As usual he researched and found this information somewhere, I tried it and it worked! I was so happy. Now I really tweak the CA settings for power conservation.

Gary

[Dennyb123]

After doing a little testing, I've noticed that at full throttle there is only 3.23 volts going to the controller from the throttle signal. Will this lower voltage affect torque or top speed? Full throttle before hooking up the CA was 3.68 volts.

[GM Canada]

I was asked what my throttle readings were at full and at rest and below is CA support's reply

Full Throttle 3.76 Volts
Throttle at rest 0.9 Volts

OK, then when you are going in the direct current control mode, you should set ITermMax and ITermMin to these values.  When you are running the system in throttle over-ride mode, then you should use these values minus a 0.6V diode drop (so 0.3V and 3.2V).
 

By direct mode he means the VI method and by throttle overide he reffering to the diode/resistor method.

So set your ItermMax and ItermMin according to this and I assume this takes care of it. You should be able to tell if there is a difference by using your switch.

Gary

[Dennyb123]

Even when switching off the throttle over ride, I still only get 3.23 volts. This is because the resistor being present. I went for a short ride in the rain. I still seem to be getting a top speed of 38 kph.

[Bikemad]

Denis, the throttle starts at ~1.25V and Maximum power is reached at ~3.25V.

A voltage higher than 3.25V will not produce any more power.

Your 3.23V should produce ~99% of the available power, which should be close enough.

Alan
 

[Dennyb123]

Denis, the throttle starts at ~1.25V and Maximum power is reached at ~3.25V.

A voltage higher than 3.25V will not produce any more power.

Your 3.23V should produce ~99% of the available power, which should be close enough.

Alan
 

Thanks for clearing that up. I assumed that just because originally my throttle sensor was putting out a voltage of 3.68 volts at full throttle, that the controller needed to see that much voltage to hit full throttle.

[GM Canada]

Hey Denny123,

Since your a pie rider with a CA can you give us some stats at how many watts you are burning at various speeds like 20kph, 32kph , full speed and if you are a light medium or heavy rider?

Gary

[Dennyb123]

I'm mainly a trail rider. But I do ride the streets in order to get to the trails. So far I've put my pie through hell and back. The only problem I've had so far was, the round connector Near the motor vibrated loose on a very rough trail. It only took a few minutes to track down the problem. I just pushed it back in, and away I went. Over the next couple days, I'll note power useage at different speeds. Give me a few days and I'll post them. 

[Dennyb123]

While out riding today, I decided to note power usage cruising at various speeds. I learned quickly that the slightest wind resistance really altered results. Specs are:

Dual suspension bike
48 volt rear wheel Magic Pie
4-12 volt 14ah SLA batteries total 36 lbs.
Myself 165 lbs.

I gathered all my information from my Cycle Analyst. To the best of my knowledge, here's what I figure my averages are on the flattest ground possible with as little wind resistance as possible:

25 kph- 200 watts
32 kph- 350 watts
38 kph- 520 watts

38 kph is my maximum speed.

 

[GM Canada]

While out riding today, I decided to note power usage cruising at various speeds. I learned quickly that the slightest wind resistance really altered results. Specs are:

Dual suspension bike
48 volt rear wheel Magic Pie
4-12 volt 14ah SLA batteries total 36 lbs.
Myself 165 lbs.

I gathered all my information from my Cycle Analyst. To the best of my knowledge, here's what I figure my averages are on the flattest ground possible with as little wind resistance as possible:

25 kph- 200 watts
32 kph- 350 watts
38 kph- 520 watts

38 kph is my maximum speed.

 

Wow! those are good numbers. My numbers are like there are 3 people sitting on my bike. I also noticed the wind is a real impact on the numbers. It seems wind is like climbing a never ending hill.

Gary

[Sangesf]

Wind (even slight wind) makes huge changes in Distance.

When my front mini motor was working I would get a distance of 18 miles on a full charge and when there is NO wind, I would get 23, that's almost a %30 drop in distance because of wind.

[Leslie]

Agreed on the wind resistance.


You would suspect a good hill adds to more but in many cases the wind is the greatest enemy.

On my near dead SLA I am lucky to get 18kms on a windy day compared to 25kms I may need to travel, on a normal day its fine.

I had a funny saying.

The wind doesnt go away where hills do.

Meaning once you get the bike going the impact on the batteries is a lot less when KE and GPE has been stored.  The wind doesnt aid your ride unless its behind you.

My luck with the weather alot has me facing the wind both ways   It blows one direction in the morning and the other in the afternoon.

I guess where the SLA had an advantage is it could store the KE (kinetic energy).  Providing I don't use the brakes stupid like, I can get the power it takes to get the rider and bike going by free-wheeling or the energy stored in GPE (gravitational potential energy) when I climb a hill and go back down.

Weight can work against the wind better than lack of it.

In the end the lighter more aerodynamic bike always wins hands down.  But the lesson I learned is to make the most of what you have to carry in your trips.

Brake = loss of energy and the conversion back to electrical energy in regen is a waste unless you really need to use the brakes.

[Leslie]

While out riding today, I decided to note power usage cruising at various speeds. I learned quickly that the slightest wind resistance really altered results. Specs are:


25 kph- 200 watts

This is close to the power consumption on my new protype solar powerd e-bike.

I have 36v 60 watt worth of panel.

It takes me 4 hours  to my stuff and get home, (1 hour ride) on a regular trip and 60 watts X 4 is 240 watts.   This is assisted by the solar panels and may at times be able to run solely on solar panels once I get it together properly. 

This would be interesting on the cycle analyst and maybe I should purchase one of these gadgets to properly interact within this thread and give some stast.