Magic Pie wiring

[GoldenMotor]

yep, there's a small RAM in the controller.

[e-lmer]

But how does that work from just one wire ? Do you pulse codes to it ?
I guess you get the voltage and ground from other wiring but wouldn't you need 2 additional wires for tx and rx ?

You only need RX/TX if you are doing bi-directional communication.

Even then, you could use a logic high (rts) to cause the onboard chip to re-allocate
other lines for RX/TX/CTS.

That would be awesome. 
If there was a small flash memory in there then you could
log data and upload it to the computer when you plug in a
serial connector.

Totals for time, current, and distance, as well as last trip
data would be wonderful.  I would love to know how far my
bike has run in the last year.


PS: Yao, you do realize that some of us are color blind, so we
can't tell that one of the letters is colored, right?

[GoldenMotor]

...

[Mabman]

Because I have no need for the headlight switch for my lighting system and led lights for my application due to a turnigy meter is it possible to switch out the throttle controller yellow 2 pin green wire with the brown wire and plug it in to the blue 2 pin connector from the multi core cable to be able to use the headlight switch as an on/off button? I tried this but cannot get continuity from the switch from either the brown or yellow wire or a combo of each. Any way to achieve this? Thanks in advance, Mabman

I've noted the connector/wire colours in the Magic Pie kit which I hope someone finds useful if they cut off the connectors like I did! 

There are prizes for the person who can tell me what the spare yellow wire from the Magic Pie controller does?

Magic Pie Connectors/Colours (Wire Colours)
-------------------------------------------
Multi-core Cable from Wheel/Pie:
Black 3-pin = Throttle (red/white/black)
Yellow 2-pin = Throttle Batt. Level LEDs (black/orange+rusty red)
Green 2-pin = Cruise Control (black/grey)
Blue 2-pin = Brake Cutoff Switches (black/blue)
White 3-pin = Pedelec (red/black/brown)
Red 2-pin = LED lights power supply (rusty red+black)

Cable from Throttle:
Black 3-pin = Throttle (red/white/black)
Yellow 2-pin =  Throttle Batt. Level LEDs (green/black)
No connector = Light Switch/Red Button (yellow/brown)

Cable from Brakes:
Blue 2-pin = Brake Cutoff Switches (red/blue)

Cable from Extra-Handlebar Buttons:
Green 2-pin = Cruise Control/Red Button (red/yellow)
No connector = Horn/Green Button (green/blue)

[Bikemad]

Because I have no need for the headlight switch for my lighting system and led lights for my application due to a turnigy meter is it possible to switch out the throttle controller yellow 2 pin green wire with the brown wire and plug it in to the blue 2 pin connector from the multi core cable to be able to use the headlight switch as an on/off button? I tried this but cannot get continuity from the switch from either the brown or yellow wire or a combo of each. Any way to achieve this? Thanks in advance, Mabman

Mabman,

I'm slightly confused as to what you're trying to achieve exactly.
Are you trying to use the light switch to simply turn the battery meter on and off?
Or are you trying to use it to enable and disable the throttle action?

The switch on the throttle control simply makes or breaks a connection between the Brown and Yellow wires coming from it and should only be used to switch low currents (less than one Amp) and could be wired to perform either of the two functions above (but not both).

Under no circumstances should you connect the Brown and Yellow wires from the light switch between the blue 2 pin "brake switch" connector and the Yellow 2 pin Battery supply to the battery meter.
This would cause damage to the switch or wiring harness and possibly the speed controller itself inside the hub!

If you're not really sure what you're doing, It might be better to leave things well alone until you've found out a bit more.

Alan
 

[Mabman]

Thanks BikeMad, that is exactly what I was doing by posting I thought? Trying to find out more. I haven't done anything yet so not to worry I was just trying to get an answer to my simple minded question and thanks for that!

I will not proceed with plan A then as per your post. Sounds like it would have been a real disaster! But I still need to have a motor cutoff switch of some sort at the bar that will replace the fact that I do not have the brakes with their switches? In other words what could I do to come off the blue connector that will activate the stop motor feature you get with the stock brakes?

Thanks for your time in helping out. I appreciate it and all the info that I am gathering from this forum.

Mabman

[muzza.au]

G'day Mabman,

Although I don't have a GM motor or controller I had a similar situation when I fitted hydraulic brakes to my bike, no break cutoff and no emergency cutoff if the throttle got stuck on full. So what I did was I had a light switch and I just connected that to the breat cutoff line. After all inside the stock e-bike break lever is just a switch. The only difference now is you can set it to always on or always off. I did put is right next to the throttle so I could push it quickly if necessary.

Muzza.

[Bikemad]

But I still need to have a motor cutoff switch of some sort at the bar that will replace the fact that I do not have the brakes with their switches? In other words what could I do to come off the blue connector that will activate the stop motor feature you get with the stock brakes?

Mabman,

The light switch could be used to achieve this function, but I would not recommend a latching switch (push on push off) for this purpose because of the regen (regenerative braking) function of the Magic Pie. If you had to accelerate away from traffic lights etc. and suddenly found yourself without any motor assistance and having to pedal much harder to overcome the effects of the regen, you would quickly discover why the lighting switch is not recommended.

A much better solution would be to use the horn switch on the cruise control unit instead. This would still cut the motor power and operate the regen, but only while the horn button remains pressed, ensuring the regen will only be activated when you choose to use it.

All you need to do is connect the Blue and Green wires from the horn switch to the Blue and Black wires on the Blue 2 pin Brake connector and it should work fine.

Alan
 

[Mabman]

Thanks Gentlemen. That does answer my question nicely. I hear what you are saying about the on/off switch Bikemad but I actually kind of like the idea that a switch at the bars will stop the motor from working with the regen on. That way it would at least take someone having to activate the switch to mess with the bike and not just hit the throttle? But if the switch is put on say going down a hill and the regen activates acting as a brake (and a powerful one I suppose) I could see a problem there perhaps and by using the horn button instead you could bump it a bit as a brake also along with the emergency cutoff necessary.

That all helps but now to the BIG problem I just discovered. I have a fully charged and balanced 48v 12AH Lifepo4 reading 54.9v hooked up to the motor (goes beep beep beep) then with the black to black pin connectors the only ones on the controller wire that I connected and tried it for the first time a few minutes ago there is no throttle response from either the supplied twist or thumb throttles Then I hooked up the yellow to yellow (stock wiring) and I get lights at the throttle no problem but still no response?

Although I was asking about the yellow to blue connection earlier I never did this in anyway other than via concept, that is when I thought I had better ask here for advice before continuing because I know from past experience that there is no substitute for asking a second opinion.

[muzza.au]

Yeah, I forgot about regen. A momentary switch would be better in that instance.

[Bikemad]

I have a fully charged and balanced 48v 12AH Lifepo4 reading 54.9v hooked up to the motor (goes beep beep beep) then with the black to black pin connectors the only ones on the controller wire that I connected and tried it for the first time a few minutes ago there is no throttle response from either the supplied twist or thumb throttles Then I hooked up the yellow to yellow (stock wiring) and I get lights at the throttle no problem but still no response?

Mabman,

Three beeps is a throttle problem, I suggest you check out this post and see if you find any obvious faults with the throttle connector wiring.

Let us know how you get on.

Alan
 

[Mabman]

Will do BikeMad. You da man. You wouldn't happen to be living next door would you? As a neighbor you would come in mighty handy, well at least you are here and that is a big help to those of us that can't exist without written instructions, you know like the ones that don't come with the "kit"

At some point I suppose that a person could just go through the archives here and put together at least a FAQ section for the new folks to go through and not have to ask the same questions over and over. I suppose I could have used the search function also...

UPDATE: The wiring seems ok. I unhooked everything and just plugged the battery lead to the motor (no controller) and get the 3 beeps?

UPDATE 2: Ok, after getting back to this I have checked all the voltages and they seem to be in order across the board (including pedelec check) as per the other post. The only thing I cannot figure out how to get a reading on the throttle when in the open position with the 3-pin connector connected? Unfortunately this is the part that I need to know about The only thing odd that I can find is that the black connector coming from the controller as listed above says red, white and black and mine has a 4th rust colored wire in with the red one. In order to keep this straight I will make a list, because my camera is broken also . (note to self, order waterproof camera case):

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Multi-core cable from Mabman's MP

Black  3-pin = 1)red/rust = Where the red jumps to white three pin and rust comes from the core
                    2)white = Comes from core
                    3)black/black = Where one black jumps to yellow 2-pin and one comes from the core

Yellow 2-pin = 1)purple/light brown = Where the purple comes from the core and the light brown jumps to red 2-pin
                     2)black/black = Where one jumps from black 2-pin and one jumps to blue 2-pin

Green  2-pin = 1)green = Comes from core
                     2)black/black Where one jumps to blue 2-pin and the other jumps to red 2-pin

Blue    2-pin = 1)blue = comes from core
                     2)black/black = jump to green 2-pin/Jump to yellow 2-pin

White  3-pin = 1)red = jump from black 2-pin
                     2)black = jump to red 2-pin
                     3)lavender = from core

Red     2-pin = 1)light brown = jump from yellow 2-pin
                     2)black/black = jump to green 2-pin/jump to white 3-pin

The biggest difference I see from Balderdash's list is the black 3 pin that has a rust wire from the core. I guess you could call it red if it wasn't for the wire that is paired with and jumps to the pedelec is red?

So once I get this sorted out I have another issue looming. The connection between the throttle cable and additional wires needed and the controller cable is going to need to be much tidier as it will be necessary to connect/disconnect the two quickly and be waterproof. I am assuming, once again not paying as much attention as I could have to electrical details over the years, that I will be able to fit a pin connector similar to the one that connects to the motor/controller on the other end of it and another to the throttle and additional wires once I get it sorted out just how many wires I will require at the handlebars?

Once again thanks for any assistance regarding this.

Mabman

[Hyena]

I have my regen brakes wired to that red button with no problems what so ever. As said it's not momentary but you quickly get the hang of it. It's rare that I only jab the brakes for a second or so, and if I did I'd just the actual brake levers. A big benefit of it is that it acts like an 'off' switch when getting on and off the bike so you can't accidently hit the throttle. I wouldn't do it but most people I let demo my bike end up twisting the throttle as they get on. I leave the switch on (pressed in) until they're on and pedalling then tell them to flick it off and use the throttle.
It also means someone can't get on your bike and ride off or accidently bump it. I had a girl knock my bike over once while I was in the corner shop and came out to find her doing a burnout, wrestling with the bike up against the wall. I angrily said "are you right there ?!" and she says "I'm so sorry, I accidently knocked it over and I tried to pick it up and I just can't stop the wheel spinning." So yeah, if you don't have an off switch its good for that purpose too.

[Mabman]

So Hyena to do that did you just run the yellow/brown wires from the throttle to the blue 2-pin blue/black ones from the controller wire?

Still haven't been able to get any throttle yet.

[Mabman]

Well I thought I was on a roll here. I have an email in to Tom so hopefully he has an answer for me?