New parts on old kit.

[Draggin]

I'm trying to wire up my new GM headlight and thumb throttle into my old 36v no regen controller.  I can't seem to find the original wiring diagram.  I'm going down to the shop to try and figure it out.  any help would be great. 

[Draggin]

Dr Draggin is in surgury right now. So far the Patient is resting comfortably but showing no signs of improvement.  From previous research we have found that the yellow wire (switched) on the throttle is connected to the not grounded -ve side of the headlight.  The +ve side of the headlight is grounded to bracket.  Just like my old MGB.  I hope the speed control is isolated!

Soooo  old bat meter        black    red                new throttle connector 1  red black white
          old throttle           red green black                            connector 2  yellow and brown
          old pedelec           red green black                                 and one lonely green wire
          old brakes             blue black
One would think that the red green and black are the red black and white connector on the new throttle.  The lonely green wire is likely the hot side of the battery for new meter in throttle and shares the black which is the other side of the battery.  One thing's for sure I'm not going to figure this one out tonight.     
   

[Draggin]

I got my parts from goldenmotor.ca here in Ontario, Canada.  They are a pleasure to deal with. 

[Bikemad]

One would think that the red green and black are the red black and white connector on the new throttle.  The lonely green wire is likely the hot side of the battery for new meter in throttle and shares the black which is the other side of the battery. 

Draggin,
Your thinking is correct.

The 2 pin connector with the yellow and brown wires go to the switch and it will not matter which way these are connected.

I'm surprised the headlamp uses a positive ground, I would test it across the battery first to make sure it works that way round.

It would be safer to have both connections made inside the headlamp and isolated from the frame/forks if possible.

N.B. The front LED headlamp will only work with the correct polarity, unlike the rear LED light that seems to work either way round.

The connector that is near the arm of the headlight is actually the ground and is connected to the arm of the light.
You actually want to connect the positive to the lead that is near the front lens.

It would be a good idea to put a 1Amp inline fuse on the Positive headlamp supply lead close to the controller as per this modified diagram:



Alan
 

[Draggin]

Thanks for the reply Bikemad.  The centre of the light is connected by a spring whitch is in turn rivited to the mounting arm bolt hole.  I think I might just remove the contact plate from the spring end and run a wire right from the centre of the light.  The reason being that inside the speed controll the voltage regulators are all bolted to the aluminum frame for cooling.  I am probably wrong but I think the plate on the regulators is connected to the emmitter contact on the regulator.  Also I don't really want my bike frame connected to the red wire.  The other unsurity is the signal wire on the speed control wiring.  We know from rc projects that the three wires on the throttle are + s - where s is the signal.   It would appear that the new throttle strays from the standard and puts it + - s.  Penny for your thoughts.   

[Bikemad]

I am probably wrong but I think the plate on the regulators is connected to the emmitter contact on the regulator.  Also I don't really want my bike frame connected to the red wire.

The other unsurity is the signal wire on the speed control wiring.  We know from rc projects that the three wires on the throttle are + s - where s is the signal.   It would appear that the new throttle strays from the standard and puts it + - s.  

Draggin,

If you test with a voltmeter between the controller casing and battery +ve you should be able to tell if it is insulated or grounded.
If you can read battery voltage it's grounded, if no voltage reading is shown, it's probably insulated.

I do agree with you,  Red should be +5V, Black should be 0V and the White (which was green on the old throttle) should be the 0-5V throttle signal, it appears that the new plug is just wired differently to the older throttle.

If the connectors are compatible, you should be able to easily transpose the black and white wires in the plug housing.

Alan
 

[Draggin]

Thanks Alan.  Thats what I needed to know.  And no of course the connectors are not compatible.  they're both male.  I don't really mind.  I prefer them soldered and a bit of shrink wrap.  besides I'm past the point where I take this thing apart every couple of weeks.  Heck I only take it apart a couple of times a year now!  Andre   

[Draggin]

Dr Draggin is out of surgury and the patient is resting comfortably.  The throttle was straight forward red-red black-black and green-white.  Incidently the battery indicator will not light till the throttle is hooked up.  The yellow(switched) wire did indeed get soldered to the black lead on the light.  But the green and brown wires got twisted together and fastened to the red +ve(old bat indicator harness) and the red wire on the light got connected to the black -ve side of the (old battery indicator harness).  That makes my light backwards to the one in the diagram above.       

[Bikemad]

That makes my light backwards to the one in the diagram above.       

Dr D,

Does that mean the light unit is supposed to have a negative ground connection?

Alan
 

[Draggin]

Mine did.  I put a red pigtail on the center screw thingy where the spring touches and makes contact with the pc board inside the light.  I even cut the bus link off with the dremel so that there is no conection from the spring to the mounting bracket.  When I tried it, once again, the red wire got twisted to the the black lead comming from the old battery meter lead.  I even checked the polarity of the leads on the old battery meter on the speed control and sure enough red is positive.  I couldn't beleive my eyes so I tried it the other way and sure enough it doesn't work.  so I'm now thinking that; here' when we start a motor the light turns green, at the intersection when you go the light turns green, but in some parts of the world it just doesnt matter what colour.     

[Draggin]

I rode my bike into work today and thoroughly enjoyed these new parts on my bike.  I had been using an ozone 9, 9 watt LED.  I leave at 05:30 so its pitch dark.  My old light was so dim that people didn't even turn off there highbeams.  About the only traffic on the road at that hour is the guys I work with and they all commented on how bright my new light was.  The LED on the thumb throttle was incredible.  I pull out onto the road and I get a flick.  Brain activated.  I must have forgotten to charge battery! I hate pedalling.  I had installed an o ring jammed between the brake bracket and the thumb throttle to act as a cruise control.  I turn down the power, just a bit, and the battery makes it the entire 17 km before the green light extinguishes.  The old one on the fork didn't give any real warning before the low voltage cut out activated. By the time it flicked it was to late to do anything about it.  The old battery meter used to light up when the bike rolled even with the battery unplugged.  It might be my imagination but I would swear that my bike rolls easier with no back EMF created by lighting the LEDs.  My jaw dropped when I opened the package and got the new brake handles.  No plastic!  I got all those parts, light, throttle and brakes, including tax, delivered to my house for less than the price of the Ozone 9 headlight!       

[GM Canada]

Well thanks for the vote of confidence Draggin. I'm not sure who you actually are because I don't recognize your screen name but I have met a few of my customers and have had a few issues to resolve. Hey if your in business there are bound to be a few problems. I do my best to solve any issues with our products and believe I have never let anyone down. One thing I must caution the readers of this thread is the wiring diagram shown. The head light is shown with the positive conected to the headlight near the headlight arm and the negative conected to the headlight near the lens. DON'T DO IT THAT WAY! I did and burned out my button on the throttle. The connector that is near the arm of the headlight is actually the ground and is conected to the arm of the light. You actually want to conect the positive to the lead that is near the front lens.

Gary Salo

Going Green at www.GoldenMotor.CA