Questions/issue with new mp5

[Toocrazy_allday]

Hello everyone,
I just got a new Magic Pie v5 and I finally got to use someone's computer and changed the amps from 25 to 30,  turned off regen braking, and dropped the low voltage cutoff to 40. Now the battery gauge on the throttle just stops lighting up intermittently. Now I'm assuming it's because I lowered the low voltage cutoff? I don't have my own computer or I would just mess with it on my own.

My other two questions.

1. Do I really have to buy the dongle to make my mp5 bluetooth? I seriously only bought the motor because of the bluetooth. I've tried on two different phones and the motor doesnt come up when I search for it in the app.

2. Can I run a different (bafang) thumb throttle? And can I separate the battery gauge from the throttle? Obviously I would have to rewire the plug or whatever but I really enjoy soldering anyway. Lol

Thanks in advance for the help.

[JJ]

I can answer some of your questions, but not all. 

When my battery level lights would momentarily turn off, my battery was also cutting out. I found it was a problem in the Luna Cycle 52V battery-to-cradle connectors. As soon as I got that fixed, I had regen problems that burned out my controller, so like you, I turned off my regen. So, I understand turning off the regen (it doesn't provide much in the way of battery regeneration either), but, I'm curious, why did you raise the amps and why did you adjust the LVC.

Yes, you have to buy the dongle to get Bluetooth capability. It plugs into the same plug as the Smart Display (same as the USB cable) and your phone will then display much the same information (as well as have the ability to change some of the parameters). However, be aware that as you motate on down the road, you may run into BT interference that will cause your Android phone's bluetooth to lose connection. Many have said that it doesn't change the pedelec level properly, either.

The thumb throttle is said to be a generic Wuxing throttle (designed for SLA batteries, not LifePO or Li-ion -- and so doesn't display power levels properly), but the plug is a Golden Motor special.  You will need to cut the plug from your Wuxing/GM throttle and connect it to the new throttle so that you may connect it properly to the main harness. I've been tempted by generic throttles with an LED or LCD readout of the actual volts the battery is supplying. Various switches are available, too, so one can keep the light switch on the throttle just like the GM one.

BTW, Gary Salo (GM Canada) tells me the motor will not work without a throttle connected, which kinda screws w/ those people in countries that only allow PAS systems. I'd like to see that confirmed, but my experience tells me it's probably correct. The Wuxing throttle (and others using Hall sensors, AFAIK) put about .8V into the signal wire when off, up to about 4.2V when all the way on. I don't get that from my PAS sensor, so my smart Pie won't work without the throttle.

HTH,
JJ

[Toocrazy_allday]

Thanks for the reply. I have a big battery pack rated for 50 amps so I wanted a little more power. As for the lvc I have a 30ah battery that I almost never fully drain, so I lowered the lvc for emergency situations when I need every last drop of the battery, which is super rare.

[Sam.Vanratt]

Hi  Toocrazy_allday
the throttle has no interaction with the controller, so whatever you set is in no relation to the LEDs there. What the throttle shows you are the voltage levels (a so called window) Wuxing or anyone defined as "safe" unaware of the voltage level you are using (so there are three different throttles available 24/36/48). If you change the battery (24 vs 48V) the throttle does not know.
As example: A LFP (LiFePO4) with 12S is 95% fully charged with 12*3,3V=>39,6V and 100% (overcharged already) with 12*3,6V=>43,2V, deepcharged with 2,8V*12=>33,6V and discharged with 5-10% remaining at 3,2V=>38,4V. So the right windows to show would be 38,4V - 39,6V as everything happy. LTO+LFP chemistry has the smallest window (about 100mV per Cell) of all Lithium based batteries. While LiPO differ 1V from charged/Discharged, LiIon allow 2,5-4.2V per Cell.
What you have on your throttle is a "nice" disco for old people to stop damaging whatever battery. It's not a real gauge. Depending on the current, the lifecycle of your battery and the temperature the battery level changes quite a lot (LFP und LTO again no more than 1V for a 12S pack, while LiIon can drop up to 4V under the same load). There are really good small Cell-Loger available (cellLog e.g.) who do a very good job and allows even to diagnose it on PC how good your pack still is), which signal when any cell is below or above (LiPo+LiIon can burn when overcharged) their defined parameters.
To get more power out of the MP(x) simply upgrade the voltage, as the RPM is done via the voltage, not the currentflow. The current just do the power to be at a certain RPM in a certain time (or how big the incline could be).
Cheers
Sam

[Tommycat]

Now the battery gauge on the throttle just stops lighting up intermittently.

Like Sam mentions above, the power LED lights are connected to your battery power with the controller not in the loop. I just wanted to add to make sure that your throttle voltage rating matches your battery. Other wise it may be over heating. I have a throttle rated at 48 volts, and I'm running a 52 volt battery. So to compensate, added a resistor to the battery input power line to compensate. But it's still inaccurate and I find using just a volt meter is more accurate...

Read about it here... https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/builds/ebike-building-directions/48457-1st-build-e-bike-rider-magic-pie-v5-rear-bottle-batt-52v-11-5ah-huffy-parkside?p=58677#post58677

2. Can I run a different (bafang) thumb throttle? And can I separate the battery gauge from the throttle? Obviously I would have to rewire the plug or whatever but I really enjoy soldering anyway. Lol

Yes you can. Use the map below to see which pins/wires to separate and use. Note that the throttle hall sensor and the LED display both use the same ground. Caution with the full battery voltage about! And to secure the wire terminations mentioned...

Yes, the controller needs to see an input voltage from the throttle or it will lock out setting an error code of 2. But this could be easily worked around with a resistor between the 5vdc regulated power and said input of about .8vdc.  PAS and throttle systems are different.

I've got a write-up on hall sensor throttles... see it here.  https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/kits/golden-motor-magic-pie/70584-guide-to-hall-sensor-throttle-operation-testing-and-modification

Regards,
T.C.