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Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / Re: Magic Pie 4 Display shows error 9 and usb programming not working
« Last post by Cloudy on Today at 12:14:08 AM »Thanks Alan for your help. It is 
running great now
running great nowNews:
Magic Pie 5, Magic Pie Edge and Smart Pie 5 now available with Bluetooth connectivity for setting and monitoring.
(Bluetooth connection requires Android 4.4 onwards)
Recent Posts
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Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / Re: Magic Pie 4 Display shows error 9 and usb programming not working
« Last post by Bikemad on December 02, 2025, 01:11:57 AM »Unfortunately I was unable to get the screen working, it powers on and shows "error 9", the three button controls for it allow me to change PAS mode, but nothing useful is displayed when the motor spins. I'm not sure if this means I have an incompatible screen or what the issue is. The previous owner never installed the motor on a bike but may have bench tested it. The screen does look like it has been used, but the motor is still mint.It does sound like the display might be the wrong version for your controller.
I see no settings for Motor or Controller Temperature protection. Do you know if this motor/controller will overheat or is there inbuilt temperature protection? I intend on going up some very big hills!The controller has a built in temperature sensor and will cut all power to the motor if it gets too hot.
Max Forward Speed, default setting is 380rpm, the software does not let me upload any changes to this setting?You should be able to enter a lower value if you need to reduce the maximum speed, but it will not accept a higher value than 380rpm.
Regen was a little abrupt, and I was able to adjust it by reducing EBS Phase current from 70 to 60A. Default regen returns up to 1200W to the battery when braking. I'm unsure if this rate of charge is sensible in the long run for my 8p14s battery made of 18650 cells.You can lower the EBS phase current (regen current) if you want to lower the power being sent to your battery, but this will obviously reduce the braking effect of the regen.
1200W @ 58.8V is just over 20A. If your 18650 cells are 2.6Ah or above this is still only charging the individual cells at a maximum of 1C, which should be fine.
I reduced "Decel Level 1 (rpm)" from 65 to 20 but I could not say for sure if this changed anything. Do you know what this setting does?The Decel Level 1 (rpm) setting is incorrectly labelled and is very misleading, as it actually relates to the maximum reverse speed in rpm.
Check out this post for further information on the program settings.
If you don't have a reverse switch, you won't need to worry about this setting.
Regards,
Alan
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Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / Re: Magic Pie 4 Display shows error 9 and usb programming not working
« Last post by Cloudy on December 01, 2025, 02:10:03 AM »Hi Alan, Thanks for taking the time to write such a detailed response!
I was successful in connecting the programming cable. I simply had to select COM16, in the drop-down menu next to the "Connect" button. Thanks for the tip.
Unfortunately I was unable to get the screen working, it powers on and shows "error 9", the three button controls for it allow me to change PAS mode, but nothing useful is displayed when the motor spins. I'm not sure if this means I have an incompatible screen or what the issue is. The previous owner never installed the motor on a bike but may have bench tested it. The screen does look like it has been used, but the motor is still mint.
My battery is 14s, but I charge it up with a 13s charger to approximately 54.6V. Sorry, I should have been clearer about that in my original post.
I've been able to increase the battery current setting from 25 to 30A
Max Power is now about 1500W as measured by my battery B.M.S. I'm pretty happy with the motor performance and it has reasonably good torque at low speed. I've left Max Phase Current at 70A (maximum allowed setting).
Over Voltage Protection - Reduced from 62 to 61V. I was unable to set this below 61 for some reason? It's a little weird this cannot be set below 61V, but maybe not a big deal as my B.M.S should cut out at around 58V anyway
I see no settings for Motor or Controller Temperature protection. Do you know if this motor/controller will overheat or is there inbuilt temperature protection? I intend on going up some very big hills!
Max Forward Speed, default setting is 380rpm, the software does not let me upload any changes to this setting?
Regen was a little abrupt, and I was able to adjust it by reducing EBS Phase current from 70 to 60A. Default regen returns up to 1200W to the battery when braking. I'm unsure if this rate of charge is sensible in the long run for my 8p14s battery made of 18650 cells.
I reduced "Decel Level 1 (rpm)" from 65 to 20 but I could not say for sure if this changed anything. Do you know what this setting does?
I was successful in connecting the programming cable. I simply had to select COM16, in the drop-down menu next to the "Connect" button. Thanks for the tip.
Unfortunately I was unable to get the screen working, it powers on and shows "error 9", the three button controls for it allow me to change PAS mode, but nothing useful is displayed when the motor spins. I'm not sure if this means I have an incompatible screen or what the issue is. The previous owner never installed the motor on a bike but may have bench tested it. The screen does look like it has been used, but the motor is still mint.
My battery is 14s, but I charge it up with a 13s charger to approximately 54.6V. Sorry, I should have been clearer about that in my original post.
I've been able to increase the battery current setting from 25 to 30A
Max Power is now about 1500W as measured by my battery B.M.S. I'm pretty happy with the motor performance and it has reasonably good torque at low speed. I've left Max Phase Current at 70A (maximum allowed setting).
Over Voltage Protection - Reduced from 62 to 61V. I was unable to set this below 61 for some reason? It's a little weird this cannot be set below 61V, but maybe not a big deal as my B.M.S should cut out at around 58V anyway
I see no settings for Motor or Controller Temperature protection. Do you know if this motor/controller will overheat or is there inbuilt temperature protection? I intend on going up some very big hills!
Max Forward Speed, default setting is 380rpm, the software does not let me upload any changes to this setting?
Regen was a little abrupt, and I was able to adjust it by reducing EBS Phase current from 70 to 60A. Default regen returns up to 1200W to the battery when braking. I'm unsure if this rate of charge is sensible in the long run for my 8p14s battery made of 18650 cells.
I reduced "Decel Level 1 (rpm)" from 65 to 20 but I could not say for sure if this changed anything. Do you know what this setting does?
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Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / Re: Magic Pie 4 Display shows error 9 and usb programming not working
« Last post by Bikemad on November 30, 2025, 01:50:08 AM »Hi and
to the forum.
Do you know if everything was working correctly before you purchased it?
Try to connect using the following sequence which typically enables a successful connection:
1) Connect the USB lead. (Vector controllers use a USB lead fitted with a five pin connector)
2) Open the programming software.
3) Select the correct COM port from the dropdown option box (was showing as COM 16 on your screenshot).
4) Click the “Connect” icon and wait for the timeout error.
5) Then connect the battery power!!
The controller should instantly connect and the relevant parameters should automatically be uploaded and displayed.
If it is unable to connect, power off and then disconnect the 10 pin connector on the controller and see if you are then able to connect by repeating the previous steps.
If you are still unable to connect with the USB programming lead, try plugging in the display back in (with the 10 pin control harness connector still unplugged) to see if the battery gauge is reading higher than before. You might also see "ERROR 2" with the throttle disconnected.
If the controller will still not connect successfully to either the programming cable or the display unit then I suspect there may be a problem somewhere within the controller or its external wiring.
The MP4 and MP5 wheels are identical except for the controllers and there are 2 versions of the BAC-601 displays which only work with the specific controller. Early versions were used for SP4 & MP4 and later versions were used for MP5, MP Edge and SP5.
Unfortunately, I don't know how you can tell the difference between the MP4 & MP5 controllers or the BAC-601 displays to confirm that you have the correct version to match your controller.
My original Smart Pie 4 controller had a MP5 sticker on it, but was not compatible with the MP5 Bluetooth dongle.
I also have A BAC-601 display on my MP4 but it does not work with my MP5.
I presume you must have a 13S battery (13S x 4.2V = 54.6V) as a 14S battery would be 58.8V fully charged.
Alan
to the forum.Do you know if everything was working correctly before you purchased it?
Try to connect using the following sequence which typically enables a successful connection:
1) Connect the USB lead. (Vector controllers use a USB lead fitted with a five pin connector)
2) Open the programming software.
3) Select the correct COM port from the dropdown option box (was showing as COM 16 on your screenshot).
4) Click the “Connect” icon and wait for the timeout error.
5) Then connect the battery power!!
The controller should instantly connect and the relevant parameters should automatically be uploaded and displayed.
If it is unable to connect, power off and then disconnect the 10 pin connector on the controller and see if you are then able to connect by repeating the previous steps.
If you are still unable to connect with the USB programming lead, try plugging in the display back in (with the 10 pin control harness connector still unplugged) to see if the battery gauge is reading higher than before. You might also see "ERROR 2" with the throttle disconnected.
If the controller will still not connect successfully to either the programming cable or the display unit then I suspect there may be a problem somewhere within the controller or its external wiring.
The MP4 and MP5 wheels are identical except for the controllers and there are 2 versions of the BAC-601 displays which only work with the specific controller. Early versions were used for SP4 & MP4 and later versions were used for MP5, MP Edge and SP5.
Unfortunately, I don't know how you can tell the difference between the MP4 & MP5 controllers or the BAC-601 displays to confirm that you have the correct version to match your controller.
My original Smart Pie 4 controller had a MP5 sticker on it, but was not compatible with the MP5 Bluetooth dongle.
I also have A BAC-601 display on my MP4 but it does not work with my MP5.
I presume you must have a 13S battery (13S x 4.2V = 54.6V) as a 14S battery would be 58.8V fully charged.
Alan
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Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / Magic Pie 4 Display shows error 9 and usb programming not working
« Last post by Cloudy on November 29, 2025, 10:19:26 PM »Hello, I have bought second hand what I think is a Magic Pie 4 motor. It has "2018" on a sticker on the hub body. I have the motor running at 14s battery (54.6V), both throttle and regen work as expected.
I would really appreciate some help with this older motor. In particular:
I would like to change settings with the USB cable that came with the motor. I have installed the windows software, but am unable to connect to the motor when plugged in. I get the error : Fail to open serial port COM09600. I have tried both USB ports on my laptop and get this error regardless. How do I connect the software?
I have a display that came with the motor, this is not showing "error 9" and 0km/hr speed when the motor is spinning. How do I make this one work?
I would really appreciate some help with this older motor. In particular:
I would like to change settings with the USB cable that came with the motor. I have installed the windows software, but am unable to connect to the motor when plugged in. I get the error : Fail to open serial port COM09600. I have tried both USB ports on my laptop and get this error regardless. How do I connect the software?
I have a display that came with the motor, this is not showing "error 9" and 0km/hr speed when the motor is spinning. How do I make this one work?
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General Discussions / How to adjust the engine inertia, controller EZkontrol A48500 and 5 kW motor
« Last post by Bublifuk21 on November 24, 2025, 06:42:29 AM »Hallo everyone. I would like to ask you. I am working on new project with EZkontrol A48500 and 5 kW motor. Everything work fine, except one problem. The motor has very long enertia or run-down, (don't know if I translate it correctly). In other words, when I have the gas turned on, and I turn it off, the motor is spinning very long time, till it stop. It is problem for me, because it is connected on gearbox and my machine go further couple seconds. I think, that in app for EZkontrol A48500, should be parameter, which could change this behavior. I know, that probably it is not possible to set it directly, that motor will run exactly and react immediately, when I let of the gas, but at least to short that time, when the motor will spin after gas turn off.
I know, there is a brake, which I can use, but for me it is last option, because it is operation moreover.
Thank you very much for all comments.
I know, there is a brake, which I can use, but for me it is last option, because it is operation moreover.
Thank you very much for all comments.
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Electric Boat Conversions / Re: Low motor rpm from HPM-10kW 72V with EZKontrol 721000 controller
« Last post by Bikemad on October 17, 2025, 12:59:42 AM »Hi Terry,
I'm not familiar with the EZKontroller settings, so I don't know what gear/speed options are available or how they might affect the low rpm torque/current. It might be worth contacting your supplier direct and explain your low power/rpm problem to them to see if they have a simple solution.
If you don't have a switch to select different gears, try to make sure the default gear is set to the highest available and see if it makes any difference.
Are there any error codes (blinking LED) on the controller? If there are, check out page 9 of the User Manual to determine what's causing the error.
If you have (or are able to borrow for testing) a smaller pitch/diameter prop, it would be very useful to see what difference it makes to the rpm, current draw and the maximum boat speed at full throttle.
Hopefully you will be able to get it much closer to the expected ~5.5-6 knots. (1.34 x the square root of the waterline length of boat in feet.)
Alan
I'm not familiar with the EZKontroller settings, so I don't know what gear/speed options are available or how they might affect the low rpm torque/current. It might be worth contacting your supplier direct and explain your low power/rpm problem to them to see if they have a simple solution.
If you don't have a switch to select different gears, try to make sure the default gear is set to the highest available and see if it makes any difference.
Are there any error codes (blinking LED) on the controller? If there are, check out page 9 of the User Manual to determine what's causing the error.
If you have (or are able to borrow for testing) a smaller pitch/diameter prop, it would be very useful to see what difference it makes to the rpm, current draw and the maximum boat speed at full throttle.
Hopefully you will be able to get it much closer to the expected ~5.5-6 knots. (1.34 x the square root of the waterline length of boat in feet.)
Alan
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Electric Boat Conversions / Re: Low motor rpm from HPM-10kW 72V with EZKontrol 721000 controller
« Last post by Tez on October 15, 2025, 10:27:23 AM »Hi Alan,
Thank you for the detailed reply. The motor and controller are both liquid cooled and I am confident that overheating isn't the problem. I don't know what a lot of the controller settings mean but the maximum bus current is 150A and from memory I think the max phase current is set at 500A. The max rotor speed settings between 2000 and 4000 have made no difference.
Do you know if the controller gear settings would make any difference? EZ-Kontrol don't provide any setting information.
There are YouTube videos of similar setups in much larger and heavier yachts. One has actually successfully reverted his original gear reduction setup to direct drive. My diesel had about 2:1 reduction and no tacho but I assume the shaft speed would have been around 1200rpm.
The boat now has good torque at slow speeds up to about 3 knots but struggles to go any faster. It only needs a little more grunt. The mystery to me has been why the bus current stays so low under full throttle. load.
Terry
Thank you for the detailed reply. The motor and controller are both liquid cooled and I am confident that overheating isn't the problem. I don't know what a lot of the controller settings mean but the maximum bus current is 150A and from memory I think the max phase current is set at 500A. The max rotor speed settings between 2000 and 4000 have made no difference.
Do you know if the controller gear settings would make any difference? EZ-Kontrol don't provide any setting information.
There are YouTube videos of similar setups in much larger and heavier yachts. One has actually successfully reverted his original gear reduction setup to direct drive. My diesel had about 2:1 reduction and no tacho but I assume the shaft speed would have been around 1200rpm.
The boat now has good torque at slow speeds up to about 3 knots but struggles to go any faster. It only needs a little more grunt. The mystery to me has been why the bus current stays so low under full throttle. load.
Terry
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Electric Boat Conversions / Re: Low motor rpm from HPM-10kW 72V with EZKontrol 721000 controller
« Last post by Bikemad on October 14, 2025, 05:06:24 PM »Hi Tez andto the forum.
I have very little knowledge of the EZ range of controllers, but I suspect that you may well have something set incorrectly in the controller settings if it's only drawing 25A at 700rpm with full throttle.
According to the User manual, the maximum bus current for the B721000 controller is 500A!
Check the Settings for the controller regarding the Max phase current(A), Max rotor speed(rpm) and Max bus current(A) etc. to see if anything is obviously wrong there.
Whilst belt reduction and/or a smaller propeller with less pitch may well be required to improve the efficiency of the motor, I would still expect the bus current to be a huge amount higher than 25A @ 700rpm if the motor is struggling with incorrect gearing/prop size etc..
Perhaps the motor or controller is simply getting too hot and is automatically reducing the current to prevent overheating, but I don't know for sure if this is the default action with the EZkontrol controllers.
If the current draw from cold is significantly higher, then this could be what's happening.
Hopefully, you will be able to monitor their temperatures using the App to see what is happening.
Do you have liquid cooling installed for both the controller and the motor?
Did the original diesel motor drive through a gear reduction unit? If so, what would the original propshaft rpm have been at maximum boat speed?
According to the Dynomometer figures, the HPM-10kW motor achieves maximum power and maximum efficiency @ just over 3,800 rpm, but I would aim for a gear reduction and/or smaller prop etc. that would allow the motor to run somewhere between 3,000 and 3,500rpm at maximum cruising speed.
Alan
to the forum.I have very little knowledge of the EZ range of controllers, but I suspect that you may well have something set incorrectly in the controller settings if it's only drawing 25A at 700rpm with full throttle.
According to the User manual, the maximum bus current for the B721000 controller is 500A!
Check the Settings for the controller regarding the Max phase current(A), Max rotor speed(rpm) and Max bus current(A) etc. to see if anything is obviously wrong there.
Whilst belt reduction and/or a smaller propeller with less pitch may well be required to improve the efficiency of the motor, I would still expect the bus current to be a huge amount higher than 25A @ 700rpm if the motor is struggling with incorrect gearing/prop size etc..
Perhaps the motor or controller is simply getting too hot and is automatically reducing the current to prevent overheating, but I don't know for sure if this is the default action with the EZkontrol controllers.
If the current draw from cold is significantly higher, then this could be what's happening.
Hopefully, you will be able to monitor their temperatures using the App to see what is happening.
Do you have liquid cooling installed for both the controller and the motor?
Did the original diesel motor drive through a gear reduction unit? If so, what would the original propshaft rpm have been at maximum boat speed?
According to the Dynomometer figures, the HPM-10kW motor achieves maximum power and maximum efficiency @ just over 3,800 rpm, but I would aim for a gear reduction and/or smaller prop etc. that would allow the motor to run somewhere between 3,000 and 3,500rpm at maximum cruising speed.
Alan
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Electric Boat Conversions / Low motor rpm from HPM-10kW 72V with EZKontrol 721000 controller
« Last post by Tez on October 13, 2025, 08:53:09 PM »Hi everyone,
I am new to this forum and need some advise. I have just converted my 22 ft displacement cabin cruiser from diesel to electric. The setup is a direct drive 10kw 72V bldc Golden motor with EZKontrol 721000 controller. The battery is 24 X 314ah cells in series with jk bms. The system operates smoothly but not reaching potential displacement hull speed. The maximum motor speed at full throttle is only about 700rpm and the bus current approximately 25A. Are there any controller settings that might increase the rpm or will belt reduction gearing and/or a smaller propeller with less pitch be required. The motor revs freely with the propeller shaft disconnected.
I am new to this forum and need some advise. I have just converted my 22 ft displacement cabin cruiser from diesel to electric. The setup is a direct drive 10kw 72V bldc Golden motor with EZKontrol 721000 controller. The battery is 24 X 314ah cells in series with jk bms. The system operates smoothly but not reaching potential displacement hull speed. The maximum motor speed at full throttle is only about 700rpm and the bus current approximately 25A. Are there any controller settings that might increase the rpm or will belt reduction gearing and/or a smaller propeller with less pitch be required. The motor revs freely with the propeller shaft disconnected.