GoldenMotor.com Forum
General Category => Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions => Topic started by: MonkeyMagic on August 25, 2010, 01:58:17 PM
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Ok so I had a call from home saying there was a 'big' parcel for me....
I was suspicious what it was at first, but coming home from work I suddenly realised... I think I even began running lol
My cast 20" front wheel is here!!!
As much as I'm tempted to slap it on and go for a spin, I'm making front torque plates for it first and locking in the axle as much as I can.
It's on a steel frame bike with front suspension [steel forks] and I'm going to have it at full speed but only have 15% regen
Has anyone with a front wheel hub & front suspension had any problems?
I'm just thinking now that it weighs about 10 times the amount of my current front wheel lol my bike is a horse now, well 2 horse haha excuse my pun ;)
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Ok so I had a call from home saying there was a 'big' parcel for me....
I was suspicious what it was at first, but coming home from work I suddenly realised... I think I even began running lol
My cast 20" front wheel is here!!!
As much as I'm tempted to slap it on and go for a spin, I'm making front torque plates for it first and locking in the axle as much as I can.
It's on a steel frame bike with front suspension [steel forks] and I'm going to have it at full speed but only have 15% regen
Has anyone with a front wheel hub & front suspension had any problems?
I'm just thinking now that it weighs about 10 times the amount of my current front wheel lol my bike is a horse now, well 2 horse haha excuse my pun ;)
OH man, you are crazy! :D 2 pies on the one bike!
Modify them... I dare you ! muhahahaha ;D
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All I can say.
You got a dual cast Pie bike. Lucky you.
Hmmmm ::)
LOL
Cant wait to see some pics.
Monkey
I got some of those 60 amp relays you suggested. They both work but they are weird. I thought they latched with a pulses.
Well they do latch with pulses but to switch off and on you need to reverse the polarity.
Those relays are awesome as you can use a SPDT momentary switch to pulse the switch. Saves so much work working any heat off resistive components you would need to hold a relay reed closed for the entire ride. Way more efficient than my previous design.
Thanks for that!
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Exactly why I bought them mate ;) no worries
I work a fair bit with PIC chips so I usually throw something together that has a menu screen and a few buttons, maybe a voltage & current reference. I knew I could pulse them with even a $0.30c 555 so they were a good buy.
Haha try buying 2 switches with that rating cheaper than that! And they are relays sealed in epoxy so they will last until the switch contacts fail muhuahhahahaa
cheers
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Exactly why I bought them mate ;) no worries
I work a fair bit with PIC chips so I usually throw something together that has a menu screen and a few buttons, maybe a voltage & current reference. I knew I could pulse them with even a $0.30c 555 so they were a good buy.
Haha try buying 2 switches with that rating cheaper than that! And they are relays sealed in epoxy so they will last until the switch contacts fail muhuahhahahaa
cheers
LMAO.
Thats gonna be scary.
PIC, Been meaning to get into these again.
My eye sight isnt like what it was. I found that you don't even need the cap. I don't want to be running stuff when the bike is supposed to be off. But that doesnt make your alarm system active this way..
I got a momentary DPDT centre off switch as I want to make it a "to hold it down for precharge and then relay kicks in about 500ms" so the pulse idea gets a little bit more complicated again.
How did you get the pic to invert the polarity for both wires to the relay coil terminals? Use four pins? Program it. Can you share you code? The timer wouldn't do this so easy. Gets a little complicated. Need a dual timer.
With the pic things could get a little screwed if the power was to fail and the relay was revered. Off would be on and on would be off. Makes me dizzy.
You would need the program to check the output to set the pic to the right inversion. More coding?.
I just hooked up my 3x3 watt cree clones I got fro AE. Blinded the family in the lounge room. I can pump up to 3 amps @ 3.2v down from 60v through my LM2567 switcher.
Damned heat transfer adhesive I got from jaycar today was dried out and halted this project for today.
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PICS!
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Damn jaycar and their rarely inferior products!!! arrghhhh
Gotta love jaycar tho... eat that dick smith you wanker lol beat you out of the small electronics competition!! haha
Okay, so PIC's are a piece of pie. Well as some aussies may say they are a a piece of piss haha what ever that is.
Anywho it is all logic, there is a standard set of commands. I use proton picbasic compiler
So I write my code in BASIC. And it is basic lol. I just have a bit of practice thats all.
And yeh its a 40pin pic so I have plenty of IO. I do it with 4 and 4 transistors (2xpnp,2xnpn) You could do it this way with 2 pins & a relay however.. Now that I think about it I could have done 2 pins with pullup/pulldown resistors lol oh well
Or you could use n~gate and simply send high or low signals to route the correct one to the transistors instead of a relay. A few options anyways
code is easy, build it into what ever
PULSOUT, (pin name/number), amount in milliseconds (100)
So my code is not based on a timer or interrupt or anything its just;
"IF this pin has voltage on it (the remote start is activated) THEN pulse this pin for 100 MS. If
There are a few different methods to get 'hooked' into. Much like guys like a holden or ford if you know what I mean... Anyways I prefer this group http://www.protonbasic.co.uk/ (http://www.protonbasic.co.uk/) I think you will like them to because the name of a head creator and key code compiler is Les ;)
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Ohhh getting there finally...
I've got to take more pics along the way but I've mainly been working on my junction box.
The wireless controller I was going to use doesn't work! (the receiver is faulty) so lucky I tested that haha
I was also going to mount my screens and panel meters inside the handlebars, with perspex pressed on each side making a dash type display. I decided to mount everything on top of my battery, using up that space instead.
So I've hard wired everything and have just finished hooking up the heated handlebars part lol
I'll take more pics tonight but heres the specs so far:
-Casted dual 20" cast MP
-48v mid frame mounted GM battery (with connections ready for 2nd on rear rack if I want)
-12v 6.8Ah lithium [system] battery hidden in frame, 135dB hidden mini siren
-Remote start with alarm, removed key wiring and replaced with relay coming from alarm wiring
(no more keys just use remote control to turn on and off the bike)
-Front & rear flashing signal indicators, rear taillight/brake light
-27W cree LED headlight, 2 x 5W LED removable torches wired to 5v circuit
-300dB police traffic horn, also acts as a decoy if alarm goes off because this is not the actual siren...
-16w Heated handlebar grips
-Handlebar controls [throttle, ebrake button, cruise, killswitch, heated grips switch,indicators,horn] wired through bars
-Backlight of speedo computer hooked up to headlight circuit so is always on at night. Hardwired computer.
-Computer wired to 2Ah 3.7v lithium battery [with resistor] so will last for ages! charges via in built circuit from 12v
-Rear night vision camera hidden under seat
-4.3" TFT lcd mounted on top of battery
-Isolated 5v circuit for panel meters, derived from 12v battery separate from 48v wiring
-3.5" panel mount blue led volt meter, monitors 48v & 12v battery
-3.5" panel mount blue led amp meter [100A shunt in junction box], 4AWG connections, with relay to monitor regen
-Mp3, am/fm stereo with ipod input. Speakers mounted on top of battery, removable
All of the accessories are run on the 12v 6.8Ah battery, pies are run on the 48v. All of the accessories are from eBay haha and cost me around $100 or so
I thought if I'm going to make a dual drive I might as well do something different. Plus all of the wiring is custom length and hidden where possible.
Anywho ill post more pics as I go ;) so excited!
*had to PDF the pics cos you can only attach 4 at once?
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It's looking very good so far, but will be even better when it's finished. ;)
keep up the good work!
Alan
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Anywho ill post more pics as I go ;) so excited!
*had to PDF the pics cos you can only attach 4 at once?
Great work!
Looking forward to the magical end and the belonging magical pictures. ;)
Peter
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Okay so still a little tinkering going on, I put it on charge and thought it was a good time to take a few more pics.
Need to install torque plate on the forks or I was going to buy a couple or arms from ebike.ca but they are out of stock! waaa
Also need to get some black cable ties lol and possibly make a fiber glass cover if I can be bothered. Then maybe a bit of paint here and there. The wiring took some serious time and effort but all is good now (after quite a bit of troubleshooting mainly with remote start)
If I do make a cover, I'll get some cells and take out the horn speaker and replace with battery cells I think is a better place for them rather than a horn ;)
Might take it out for a careful test run once I drill the holes on my front disc I had off the original wheel a bit bigger as the existing ones didn't line up with the front motor disc brake mount holes.
I'm hoping I only lose about 10-15km range and not sure how it will go running 1 wheel at a time then 2 on demand. Also a bit scared about the current draw even though Tom had given the OK in an email to set both the wheels to Max power settings :S
I have the rear wheel set at 65% regen and the front at 20% which I think should be OK, 75% on the rear wheel is what I had running, which I felt was Max appropriate for the battery and torque stress effects it would have.
Also thinking the wheels will actually draw much less with both going up a hill at once unless it is a really steep hill lol then I might be in trouble with the battery BMS.
Tom if you read this, can you please confirm again that I can leave the amp settings at Max on the controller with my 48v 12Ah battery? Thanks
Anyways heres some pics, I PDF'd a few others
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I have the rear wheel set at 65% regen and the front at 20% which I think should be OK, 75% on the rear wheel is what I had running, which I felt was Max appropriate for the battery and torque stress effects it would have.
This is just my opinion, but I would have though it would be advantageous to have it the other way around, giving the larger braking force on the front where there is much more grip available during braking. You could even put additional switches in to enable you to independently switch either wheel between "regen" or "throttle kill" mode. It should be reasonably easy to configure the wiring, just ask if you would like more details and I'll see what I can come up with.
Do you currently have the brake switches wired separately to give independent front and rear regen?
If they are separate, you could put a diode (and switch if wanted) between the two switches to give rear only on the rear lever and dual regen on the front lever. This would give you the option of minimal or full regen according to which lever you used.
Alan
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How you fit all this in that small bike and still looks and is functional is awesome, but you still havemt fixed those damned pedals, tsk tsk.
Its a work of art though.
So well done.
One question. How does that rear view work at night? Do the car lights bleed in the CCD or Cmos sensor? Still tells you something is comming rather well in any case.
Excuse me to make some advise, maybe some infrared crees and go the full stealth assault mode for both front and rear night vision.. Drools
This would make the God of E-bikes the God of gods outright..
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Yes Alan even the front disc operates the rear regen and the rear disks operate the front regen. But Im not sure about the throttle operating the same time when either brakes are applied.
I keep thinking of how good it would be to have both or either brakes switch both motors off and each brake independently operates regen on a single wheel at a time..
I still trying to find out what brake high and brake low pads are for on the controllers.
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G'day
Hey cheers for the advice its good to bounce ideas plus I need some ;)
The reason I didn't want much regen at all on the front is all due to the torque forces on the suspension forks I thought could be an issue there. The rear is very solid and tight and you can literally nearly go over the handlebars if you are standing up and hit regen coming down a hill at speed lol
So I didn't want too much 'bend and flex' happening with the front forks I guess.
The infrared Cree lights sounds like a good idea. Lol I think it has enough stuff on there though and the lights would be somewhat directional anyways would you think? The cameras sensor is for a car rear view so it is okay with car headlights and shows where the headlights are coming from to let me know where the car(s) is. Its not too glarey during the day but could use a anti-glare screen
My electric brake levers are just hooked up to my brake lights, so liking the high and low regen idea I might change this because usually I just use one disc brake or regen alone when I want to slow a bit, and regen and disc brake at once when I am stopping quickly.
What are your thoughts on having both wheel regen values equal more than 100%? I would assume this would be bad for my pal Mr. GM 48v Lithium so I didn't want to go near the 100% value with the combined total.
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front disc operates the rear regen and the rear disks operate the front regen.
It would be far safer to keep the mechanical and electrical braking on the same wheel/lever, otherwise if the front wheel started to skid you would have to remember to release both brakes in order to stop the front regen, which is not an instinctive reaction.
I would definitely swap them over, even if nothing else was done to the brakes.
The reason I didn't want much regen at all on the front is all due to the torque forces on the suspension forks I thought could be an issue there. The rear is very solid and tight and you can literally nearly go over the handlebars if you are standing up and hit regen coming down a hill at speed lol
So I didn't want too much 'bend and flex' happening with the front forks I guess.
The suspension forks should be able to withstand the braking forces as the same torsional force will be applied between the lower section and the fork legs regardless of whether it is disc brakes, V brakes or regen braking. As long as the dropouts can handle the axle torque, you will not have a problem.
To avoid going over the handlebars you could use a switch on the rear suspension to cut the regen when the shock absorber is is fully extended (just before it tries to lift off the back end off the deck), and to avoid flipping over the backward on hills you could also use a switch on the front suspension linked to the rear throttle! :D
As your bike is already hi tech, why not go with a solid state gyro instead, with an adjustable setting for the perfect wheelie angle.
I'm sure you could make it work. ;)
Alan
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front disc operates the rear regen and the rear disks operate the front regen.
It would be far safer to keep the mechanical and electrical braking on the same wheel/lever, otherwise if the front wheel started to skid you would have to remember to release both brakes in order to stop the front regen, which is not an instinctive reaction.
I would definitely swap them over, even if nothing else was done to the brakes.
Alan
Yes I understand now, good point, I can put this one to bed as the same applies to both front and rear. . Originally I was thinking both regen and mechanical brakes on a single front wheel would be too much and to spread the braking to both wheels would be better.
Monkey I bought the brake light with 8 tunes or what ever.
The switches are good and not hair trigger and to adjust properly you need to pull the levers in about 20%, I didnt care much for the rest of that thing but Im not entirely sure how those switches would go with a disc brake.
Im thinking of using the standard brake switches for the lights as they indicate immediately if the brakes are engaged and the new switxhes for regen.
There still the chance this way that both motor and brakes are engaged at the same time but it not so crucial unless the bike is going to full stop.
The torque force on the forks sure will be a concern with the small rim Pie but think about the force when you operate the motor and brakes at the same time just by accident. This has been seen to cause dropout failure too.
You should have the motor disengage when operating the mechanical brakes. Well at least for the front. Operating the brakes and motor at any time draws much power from the pack too, If your stopping and starting a lot this will become evident with much power loss.
Ive found this not too bad but when the months roll on I catch myself out doing both throttle and brakes to often as awareness to this dulls. And more so when emergency stopping is required the motor cut off is crucial when operating mechanical brakes.
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Haha I think this could possibly get a bit out of control ;)
Alan, no joke I was considering this instead of a tilt switch to engage both pies going up a hill, and automatic regen going down a hill
great minds think alike ;)
http://www.sureelectronics.net/goods.php?id=176 (http://www.sureelectronics.net/goods.php?id=176)
It could feed into a PIC and provide an analogue voltage reference to control the throttle, or both throttles and then regen. Okay so I think I'll have to buy one and do some tinkering
I can fit a small 12v air compressor in front of the back wheel on the back. Imagine you had a flat on the road, and some guy pulls up while you are pumping your tyre and whips out a air compressor! Even funnier if you were in your car
Then I could get an air spring so I can lower the bike to the ground for those main street runs lol pimpin !
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And do the beat sensor switches to the air compressors so it can bounce in time and strobe those Monkey wheel lights in time with Black Eyed Peas.
Such the long way around to fix those pedals close to the ground. Do you ever do something easy for once? ::)
:D
No!
I really mean go as far as you desire and show us some stuff.
You only wish you had my 20" dynos as a starting point.
(http://www.reanimatedresidue.com/residuary/images/dynobikenov2007.jpg)
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That bike is awesome !!
What bike is that??
I want one :D my gear would go crazy on that thing!
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DYNO/Mongoose CX 24V 200 Electric Motocross Bicycle. They had Currie tech written al over them.
I bought three of them for $130 each from Kmart with 2*12ah batteries, 1.8A charger, throttle and all.
Playcorp was distributing them I don't know whether you can pick em up in Australia you may have to import, but they are legal as is.
I replace the controller with a 36v ecrazy one and jammed 3 * 12ah SLA in the triangle.
http://urbanscooters.com/P/Electric-Bikes/mongoose/Mongoose-Electric-Motocross-Bike.html?SSAID=204502 (http://urbanscooters.com/P/Electric-Bikes/mongoose/Mongoose-Electric-Motocross-Bike.html?SSAID=204502)
http://www.tootoo.com/d-rp11299272-Mongoose_Electric_Motocross_Bicycle_Cx24v450/ (http://www.tootoo.com/d-rp11299272-Mongoose_Electric_Motocross_Bicycle_Cx24v450/)
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After a few 10,000+ kms the other 2 bikes have been all used to keep one bike on the road. I have a flat there I need to fix. This happened yesterday. Been anoying me because I fixed a large puncture only to find a small puncture today.
It gets me to the shops and I have to pump it up to get home. Nothing was open today so I didn't get a new tube.
(http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2431.0;attach=3301;image)
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Thats my kind of bike ;)
Hey are the forks and rear part of the frame alloy? The middle looks like it might be steel but I haven't noticed the material in the specs.
Anyways sweet ride :P
I like this automated idea that Alan has prompted... And with the room I have in front of the rear wheel, I was thinking of something like this:
(http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:4K7rIWH25kiNMM:http://img1.topfreebiz.com/o2010-5/Electric-Brushless-DC-Motor-BM1418ZX-Brushless--188126428.jpg&t=1)
Its a 500w BLDC motor, at 500rpm (I doubt that..), 48v. I was just going to put a high and low switch with resistors on the throttle circuit to give it a 'low/high' speed.
$150 delivered with a controller so I thought that was an okay price.
So Leslie/Alan do you think I can get a higher top speed? I'll admit to be new at knowing what type of rear freewheel/sprocket type I will need to accommodate the single speed pedal freewheel, and the brushless motor freewheel.
This I want to turn on when I reach a max or near max speed on both pies, then switch off the rear pie and turn on the brushless motor.
I'll need a big sprocket on the wheel or on the motor? I think the take off will be fine with both pies, and don't want to run all 3 at once unless I upgrade my battery pack. That is not a priority because the range is fine the way it is and if I go really far distances I use the trains which are really good to get around Melbourne.
Something else that came to mind is I might have to run a switched, high current diode or current limiter while the rear pie and possibly the front are going past their rated RPM for so long. Maybe this is not a good idea? I was hoping for a max top speed of say 60 or 70km/h?
Again, pretty new to the chain drive idea. Not sure if I can run a sprocket on the other side of the wheel screwed into the disc brake slot and check with the supplier that the motor can freewheel for long periods of time?
Any advice would be great
Cheers
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This bike is steel all the way.
I bent two sets of forks, one I ran into a railway sleeper sticking out of the ground at 30kph at night and did my self a real number I had an egg sticking out of my shin (crushed bone), cracked ribs, bad grazes and I freaken yelled in pain.. The second I was lucky doubling my son down the park and I ditched the front wheel into a hidden grassy drain hole in the ground. It was like we both did a somersault over the handle bars him in my arms and I landed oin my back with him still in my arms. The landing was ok but it scared him. Weve had the hole since fixed by the council with a good grill as it would of did some serious injury. If we were going slower, like a small child on a normal kids bike, we may not of made such a perfect flip and landing as we did,.
Yeah the MX style bikes can encourage a different type of riding. They don't quite handle as well as they can take the bumps.
Just three night ago I run off a raised edge and stacked it at the servo in front of about three cars filling up, :-[ I was showing off.
Ive only had one spill on the bigger bikes and this was when the front wheel slid on some gravel. The Big SLA even though they protected my legs prolly was the cause of the slide to begin with.
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Wow! well the bike sounds tough, its holding up with you after all ;)
Okay I'll keep my out for one but I don't like my chances, it looks like they were a thing a few years back and might be scarce now.
It would have been perfect as all of the mounts were there and I might have been able to salvage the left hand side freewheel or cog.
Also I'm tipping the rear drop out width is 135mm with the gear cluster?
Oh and was the raised edge a gutter? I went up one the other day trying to go in the middle of a traffic median and the front wheel slipped and I nearly face planted :S
Cheers
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Face plants.
When young I was pretty dangerous on my Diamondback I could clear 5 people mono-hopping no problemo
I was flying down the road diagonal crossing it at night and some on comming trafic was comming my way. I was forced to leave the road and attempred to mono-hop and clear a gutter and misstimed it. Back wheel hit and my feet left the pedals. The handle bar some how sung and hit me in the eye, I must of spun around and smashed my head into the path concrete and split my scalp an inch long at the back of my head bleeding everywhere. One side of my face was grzed badly and the other looked like the elephant man all swollen. I was unconscious for about 20 mins and my friends brother carried me to the home.
He took me in a cab to the hospital where I stayed under observation over night.
I swear to this day I left my body floating 50 feet above watching my friends bro carry me up the road. Out of body experience was about the best thing about the accident but for a week later I couldnt even open my eye.
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Thats a story and a half....
Well touch wood that doesn't happen to me, were you wearing a helmet?
On another note, I just took the dual drive for a midnight spin. It is friggin crazy!!
Acceleration would have to be the biggest difference, I definitely need to upgrade my battery so I'm thinking I might need to stick another 48v pack on a rear rack and put up with the weight
I also have one of these
(http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/2/0/7/0/9/webimg/297978336_o.jpg)
But I feel its a bit too wide for the bike, and if it falls over that thing will smash to smitharinis
Anyways definitely was worth the dual drive :P now just to get a bigger suspension spring to get the ride height up otherwise I'm going to drill holes in the cranks and shorted the pedal distance.
Not sure exactly what goes on, but I take off slowly on the dual drive; then about 10km/h I hit full throttle and it jerks you back with the toque upto about 20-25km/h then for some reason it launches and jerks you back again until top speed. Feels weird and great at the same time :P
Really good riding experience, they do seem to fight eachother a bit. To stop this I think I am going to run the front only on the throttle because it seems alot stronger and then the rear wheel on a low/high switch (2.4V, 4.4V) like my chain drive motor add on idea
I'll try and get some speed readings but it is very close to 50km/h and probably about a 5-10km/h speed increase most likely due to the front motor seeming alot stronger.
woooooooo
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I also have one of these
(http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/2/0/7/0/9/webimg/297978336_o.jpg)
But I feel its a bit too wide for the bike, and if it falls over that thing will smash to smitharinis
Do you have a link on this?
I would like to see more of this.
Great bike btw
Peter
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Nice Box!
Sounds like you need some soft start happening there Monkey..
And no I wasnt wearing a helmet Im like 80% my way to granny hood 42yo my first children are getting married. So we didnt have to wear helmets I don't think one would of saved my face as this part took the worst trauna, I can not express how bad my swollen eye and grazed face look. The split in my head was ok, just a lil bit of skin.The skull usually is made for this trauma naturally reaction now is to protect your face.. Most stuff that will crack your skull will break the helmet and crack your skull. Try jumpin on one of those foam things, then you get the argument, they are stronger on your head, So I need my head to make a helmet strong?.. Useless in essence. Save a little cut thats all they will do. I only wear one to save the fine.
When at school I could only see through one eye for a week and kept running onto to stuff and falling down stairs. Was one horrible experience.
And with pealing with a head warmer on in the hot QLD heat I may as well stick my head in the oven. Ebikes are good with the helmet as you don't overheat with motor assist. Lots of brain cells die at a 3 or 4 degree body temperature raising above what it would be when your body temp is already soaring. A foam helmet will give a pedal biker that headache that will last for days when using them on very hot days.. I met too many pro cyclists that cant do much but ride bikes. Doh!
BTW have you fixed those pedals yet? Touch wood hmmm.
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Sounds horrible Leslie.
Do you happen to be one of those guys whose always manage to get in trouble, one way or the other? ;)
The guys who always to jumped a little higher, stayed on the rail a little longer or made that impossible that no other guy dared to do?
I can tell you I was not, at least until I was a teenager then I catch up. ;)
I try to wear a helmet all the time I’m on a bike, ever since I hit the ground a few years ago. Especially in the winter this is very important when the roads are full of ice and snow. We don’t usually have a problem with the heat, even if it can get pretty warm in the summer the sun isn’t as scorching as it is for you. In the winter I wear a helmet and goggles for downhill skiing since they are made for cold weather. When the temperature was -25°C the eyelashes freezes until I didn’t see anything, but with the skiing goggles there’s no problem at all.
Peter
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We never did that stuff as we were sort of the old school who just started to experiment with different stunts.
To this day I never thought some of the things they do and we dreamed of could be done, We had the dirt trck with massive jumps, cross ups and pancakes and high jumping and long jumping were the order of the day I managed to ride backwards. Do foot plants and 10ft drop offs.
One jump was cool. It was a massive pine bark pile and we set some boards up along it. I had the lowest gears so I could get way further than most. I think I could do over 15 meters on that thing and the landing was in the pine bark. Excellent :D. The other jump was scary, It was a mound of dirt we rode down hard and it was a good4 meters high fast incline and slow decline on the back of the jump.
After a few spills especially that one above I tell of I lost my nerve and started stacking all the time. I gave it up for a good guitar and surf board. 24ft waves were even safer for me.
I was very accident prone and since 9mths I have scares from top to bottom. Yeah I pulled a jug on me when I was 9mths old and had my fore arm and lower bicep fuse together and it had to be separated. At 4 year old I put the same arm into an electric clothes wringer and it stopped pulling my arm in below my elbow then proceeded to friction burn my the skin there unit I was saved by my cousin.
I used to try blow cars up by throwing matches down the fuel tanks in neighbors cars and almost burnt the shed down trying to make volcanoes out of petrol and sand at 5 yo.
By the time I was 15 my mother was on prescription drugs sinequan so she could sleep. She didnt understand, we had Aspergers syndrome running through the males in my family and I don't think knowing about this disability would of help much.
LOL danger was my second name. Much stupidity was my third name. :D
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Don’t get me wrong as I don’t think it’s funny that you were hurt, but that’s a very funny reading. I really had a good laugh when I read it and the answer to my question seems to be YES!!! ;D
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Haha it kind of has a ring to it
"Leslie Danger Stupidity"
;)
Wow well at least you have some stories to tell ya grand kids true!
Hey Peter how you been mate, here is a link I got mine just like a heap of other stuff from ebay lol
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Motorcycle-scooter-touring-trunk-box-top-case-w-light-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem255cf7f9ccQQitemZ160473545164QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Motorcycle-scooter-touring-trunk-box-top-case-w-light-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem255cf7f9ccQQitemZ160473545164QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories)
That link is about $20 cheaper than I got mine too so I didn't like seeing that!
It is a really nice trunk (or as we call 'boot' in Australia), is waterproof and would be good for storage but no so much batteries in there or anything else valuable as you could literally rip it off the parcel rack being plastic and all.
So many accessories I have that have not been used, I'm sure if anyone has an idea for anything I have some input for it !
;)
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OH how could I nearly forget???
WOWWWW okay, so I plugged the front wheel into the PC and modified the regen. Upon connecting I noticed the battery voltage was set at 24v, thinking I had already set that to 48v previously I changed this.
The bike was then very smooth. Both wheels set at 48v, they do seem to have funny operation at extremely low speeds however at full depress of the throttle acted fine.
I rode it around late last night in the empty streets, only having regen as my brake I had to be extremely careful. I was somewhat overall satisfied with the dual drive, and my smile stayed on my face.
Today is another story....
At work I thought to myself (as one dreams about their pie at home haha what's wrong with me?? lol) anyway, I thought "Hey why would it have so much torque before but seem to be smooth now?" that pointed me back to the voltage settings.
So when I got home my battery was full charge, went for a sneaky ride around in 48v and noticed I'd say an 'moderate' increase in uphill torque and speed. I went up a pretty steep hill and was still fast enough for me to spin out pedalling. That was a good sign.
The point of my story? Well after the first ride, I came back and set them both to 24v HOLEY CRAP this thing absolutely launches like a drug dealer in a police raid! I went for a bit of a spin, this I guess follows a post I made about changing the voltage to 36v and noticing more torque. I never went for a spin on 24v with single drive so I guess I never knew...
So anyone who was bothered reading my novel above, the moral of the story is - if you have the USB cable, change the voltage settings more-so than the amp, max current settings and see if you like that change.
This thing accelerates uphill now, and the thought of modifying is gone but I'm not sure of the range and speed differences etc.
If anyone has a meter hooked up to their pie (if u have dual drive and single battery even better) but it would be good to get some different current and speed ratings from the voltage selection.
MASSIVE difference... All this typing has made me want to take it out again... lollllll I wonder what both wheels spinning in mud is like to control?
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Hmmm.
Thats got me thinking.
When you use lower volt batteries the resistance may impede the current somewhat and the PWM frequency is speed up to compensate to make the current adjustment to buffer the offset, Id be interested to find out what the forward voltage is of the front end switcher regulation is too.
I always thought that this voltage settings were for the controller LVC. It seems to change a few more things about the controller.
Thanks for sharing,
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I noticed something else today,
Will be taking it apart on the weekend but when I disconnect power from the rear pie, the front throttle doesn't work but the pie doesn't beep. So I must have hooked it through a single 5v circuit (rear wheel)
Anyways could be the reason why I have erratic slow speed throttle. My belief was the throttle sensor was just a analogue voltage reference. When riding I'm quite sure I get full throttle voltage signal but I will test this tomorrow just in case.
Full throttle & speed on a flat you can notice the wheel speed top out only when the ground declines a bit so maybe I have a couple of points off 4.2V throttle signal. I don't think it would have a problem topping out with both wheels running.
Also, today I was using cruise control and the front motor cut out for some reason. I thought 'what the hell this feels crap' and I noticed I was only running the rear wheel. Anyways at the traffic lights I unplugged and plugged the front motor power connector and it was fine again.
The front motor does not spark when connecting the power, but the rear one does and always has even running 1.
If someone was looking for a cast wheel type then I would 100% recommend the front motor. So much less trouble and it feels much better having the bike 'pulled' rather than pushed.
I'm going to fit torque arms on the front forks but I honestly don't think it needs them. Regen is only at 20% and the wheel fits so snug it was meant to be
I'll give it maybe another month before I pull open the rear one and change it to external controller and run 96V with 2 ping battery packs
Okay so what are thoughts on 2 x 48v packs in series for the rear wheel, and the front running off 1 of the 48v packs?
I can see this turning into 2 x external controllers and both wheels at 96v haha maybe I will wait until my warranty runs out