Casted Dual Drive ;)

[Bikemad]

front disc operates the rear regen and the rear disks operate the front regen.

It would be far safer to keep the mechanical and electrical braking on the same wheel/lever, otherwise if the front wheel started to skid you would have to remember to release both brakes in order to stop the front regen, which is not an instinctive reaction.

I would definitely swap them over, even if nothing else was done to the brakes.

The reason I didn't want much regen at all on the front is all due to the torque forces on the suspension forks I thought could be an issue there. The rear is very solid and tight and you can literally nearly go over the handlebars if you are standing up and hit regen coming down a hill at speed lol

So I didn't want too much 'bend and flex' happening with the front forks I guess.

The suspension forks should be able to withstand the braking forces as the same torsional force will be applied between the lower section and the fork legs regardless of whether it is disc brakes, V brakes or regen braking. As long as the dropouts can handle the axle torque, you will not have a problem.

To avoid going over the handlebars you could use a switch on the rear suspension to cut the regen when the shock absorber is is fully extended (just before it tries to lift off the back end off the deck), and to avoid flipping over the backward on hills you could also use a switch on the front suspension linked to the rear throttle!

As your bike is already hi tech, why not go with a solid state gyro instead, with an adjustable setting for the perfect wheelie angle.
I'm sure you could make it work.

Alan
 

[Leslie]

front disc operates the rear regen and the rear disks operate the front regen.

It would be far safer to keep the mechanical and electrical braking on the same wheel/lever, otherwise if the front wheel started to skid you would have to remember to release both brakes in order to stop the front regen, which is not an instinctive reaction.

I would definitely swap them over, even if nothing else was done to the brakes.




Alan
 

Yes I understand now, good point, I can put this one to bed as the same applies to both front and rear.  .  Originally  I was thinking both regen and mechanical brakes on a single front wheel would be too much and to spread the braking to both wheels would be better.

Monkey I bought the brake light with 8 tunes or what ever.

The switches are good and not hair trigger and to adjust properly you need to pull the levers in about 20%, I didnt care much for the rest of that thing but Im not entirely sure how those switches would go with a disc brake.


Im thinking of using the standard brake switches for the lights as they indicate immediately if the brakes are engaged and the new switxhes for regen.

There still the chance this way that both motor and brakes are engaged at the same time but it not so crucial unless the bike is going to full stop.

The torque force on the forks sure will be a concern with the small rim Pie but think about the force when you operate the motor and brakes at the same time just by accident.  This has been seen to cause dropout failure too.

You should have the motor disengage when operating the mechanical brakes.  Well at least for the front.  Operating the brakes and motor at any time draws much power from the pack too,  If your stopping and starting a lot this will become evident with much power loss.

Ive found this not too bad but when the months roll on I catch myself out doing both throttle and brakes to often as awareness to this dulls.  And more so when emergency stopping is required the motor cut off is crucial when operating mechanical brakes.

[MonkeyMagic]

Haha I think this could possibly get a bit out of control

Alan, no joke I was considering this instead of a tilt switch to engage both pies going up a hill, and automatic regen going down a hill
great minds think alike

http://www.sureelectronics.net/goods.php?id=176

It could feed into a PIC and provide an analogue voltage reference to control the throttle, or both throttles and then regen. Okay so I think I'll have to buy one and do some tinkering

I can fit a small 12v air compressor in front of the back wheel on the back. Imagine you had a flat on the road, and some guy pulls up while you are pumping your tyre and whips out a air compressor! Even funnier if you were in your car

Then I could get an air spring so I can lower the bike to the ground for those main street runs lol pimpin !

[Leslie]

And do the beat sensor switches to the air compressors so it can bounce in time and strobe those Monkey wheel lights in time with Black Eyed Peas.


Such the long way around to fix those pedals close to the ground.  Do you ever do something easy for once?  



No!

I really mean go as far as you desire and show us some stuff.


You only wish you had my 20" dynos as a starting point.

[MonkeyMagic]

That bike is awesome !!

What bike is that??

I want one my gear would go crazy on that thing!

[Leslie]

DYNO/Mongoose CX 24V 200 Electric Motocross Bicycle.  They had Currie tech written al over them.

I bought three of them for $130 each from Kmart with 2*12ah batteries, 1.8A charger, throttle and all.

Playcorp was distributing them I don't know whether you can pick em up in Australia you may have to import, but they are legal as is.


I replace the controller with a 36v ecrazy one and jammed 3 * 12ah SLA in the triangle.

http://urbanscooters.com/P/Electric-Bikes/mongoose/Mongoose-Electric-Motocross-Bike.html?SSAID=204502

http://www.tootoo.com/d-rp11299272-Mongoose_Electric_Motocross_Bicycle_Cx24v450/

[Leslie]

After a few 10,000+ kms the other 2 bikes have been all used to keep one bike on the road.  I have a flat there I need to fix.  This happened yesterday.  Been anoying me because I fixed a large puncture only to find a small puncture today.

It gets me to the shops and I have to pump it up to get home.  Nothing was open today so I didn't get a new tube.
 

[MonkeyMagic]

Thats my kind of bike

Hey are the forks and rear part of the frame alloy? The middle looks like it might be steel but I haven't noticed the material in the specs.
Anyways sweet ride

I like this automated idea that Alan has prompted... And with the room I have in front of the rear wheel, I was thinking of something like this:


Its a 500w BLDC motor, at 500rpm (I doubt that..), 48v. I was just going to put a high and low switch with resistors on the throttle circuit to give it a 'low/high' speed.
$150 delivered with a controller so I thought that was an okay price.

So Leslie/Alan do you think I can get a higher top speed? I'll admit to be new at knowing what type of rear freewheel/sprocket type I will need to accommodate the single speed pedal freewheel, and the brushless motor freewheel.

This I want to turn on when I reach a max or near max speed on both pies, then switch off the rear pie and turn on the brushless motor.
I'll need a big sprocket on the wheel or on the motor? I think the take off will be fine with both pies, and don't want to run all 3 at once unless I upgrade my battery pack. That is not a priority because the range is fine the way it is and if I go really far distances I use the trains which are really good to get around Melbourne.

Something else that came to mind is I might have to run a switched, high current diode or current limiter while the rear pie and possibly the front are going past their rated RPM for so long. Maybe this is not a good idea? I was hoping for a max top speed of say 60 or 70km/h?

Again, pretty new to the chain drive idea. Not sure if I can run a sprocket on the other side of the wheel screwed into the disc brake slot and check with the supplier that the motor can freewheel for long periods of time?

Any advice would be great

Cheers

[Leslie]

This bike is steel all the way.

I bent two sets of forks, one I ran into a railway sleeper sticking out of the ground at 30kph at night and did my self a real number I had an egg sticking out of my shin (crushed bone), cracked ribs, bad grazes and I freaken yelled in pain..  The second I was lucky doubling my son down the park and I ditched the front wheel into a hidden grassy drain hole in the ground.  It was like we both did a somersault over the handle bars him in my arms and I landed oin my back with him still in my arms.  The landing was ok but it scared him.  Weve had the hole since fixed by the council with a good grill as it would of did some serious injury. If we were going slower, like a small child on a normal kids bike, we may not of made such a perfect flip and landing as we did,.

Yeah the MX style bikes can encourage a different type of riding.  They don't quite handle as well as they can take the bumps.  

Just three night ago I run off a raised edge and stacked it at the servo in front of about three cars filling up,    I was showing off.

Ive only had one spill on the bigger bikes and this was when the front wheel slid on some gravel.  The Big SLA even though they protected my legs prolly was the cause of the slide to begin with.

[MonkeyMagic]

Wow! well the bike sounds tough, its holding up with you after all
Okay I'll keep my out for one but I don't like my chances, it looks like they were a thing a few years back and might be scarce now.

It would have been perfect as all of the mounts were there and I might have been able to salvage the left hand side freewheel or cog.

Also I'm tipping the rear drop out width is 135mm with the gear cluster?

Oh and was the raised edge a gutter? I went up one the other day trying to go in the middle of a traffic median and the front wheel slipped and I nearly face planted :S

Cheers

[Leslie]

Face plants.

When young I was pretty dangerous on my Diamondback I could clear 5 people mono-hopping no problemo

I was flying down the road diagonal crossing it at night and some on comming trafic was comming my way.  I was forced to leave the road and attempred to mono-hop and clear a gutter and misstimed it. Back wheel hit and my feet left the pedals. The handle bar some how sung and hit me in the eye, I must of spun around and smashed my head into the path concrete and split my scalp an inch long at the back of my head bleeding everywhere. One side of my face was grzed badly and the other looked like the elephant man all swollen.  I was unconscious for about 20 mins and my friends brother carried me to the home.

He took me in a cab to the hospital where I stayed under observation over night.

I swear to this day I left my body floating 50 feet above watching my friends bro carry me up the road.  Out of body experience was about the best thing about the accident but for a week later I couldnt even open my eye.

[MonkeyMagic]

Thats a story and a half....

Well touch wood that doesn't happen to me, were you wearing a helmet?
On another note, I just took the dual drive for a midnight spin. It is friggin crazy!!

Acceleration would have to be the biggest difference, I definitely need to upgrade my battery so I'm thinking I might need to stick another 48v pack on a rear rack and put up with the weight

I also have one of these


But I feel its a bit too wide for the bike, and if it falls over that thing will smash to smitharinis

Anyways definitely was worth the dual drive now just to get a bigger suspension spring to get the ride height up otherwise I'm going to drill holes in the cranks and shorted the pedal distance.

Not sure exactly what goes on, but I take off slowly on the dual drive; then about 10km/h I hit full throttle and it jerks you back with the toque upto about 20-25km/h then for some reason it launches and jerks you back again until top speed. Feels weird and great at the same time

Really good riding experience, they do seem to fight eachother a bit. To stop this I think I am going to run the front only on the throttle because it seems alot stronger and then the rear wheel on a low/high switch (2.4V, 4.4V) like my chain drive motor add on idea

I'll try and get some speed readings but it is very close to 50km/h and probably about a 5-10km/h speed increase most likely due to the front motor seeming alot stronger.

woooooooo

[Sundsvall]

I also have one of these


But I feel its a bit too wide for the bike, and if it falls over that thing will smash to smitharinis

Do you have a link on this?
I would like to see more of this.
Great bike btw

Peter

[Leslie]

Nice Box!

Sounds like you need some soft start happening there Monkey..

And no I wasnt wearing a helmet Im like  80% my way to granny hood 42yo my first children are getting married.  So we didnt have to wear helmets I don't think one would of saved my face as this part took the worst trauna,  I can not express how bad my swollen eye and grazed face look.  The split in my head was ok, just a lil bit of skin.The skull usually is made for this trauma naturally reaction now is to protect your face..  Most stuff that will crack your skull will break the helmet and crack your skull.  Try jumpin on one of those foam things, then you get the argument, they are stronger on your head,  So I need my head to make a helmet strong?..  Useless in essence.  Save a little cut thats all they will do. I only wear one to save the fine.

When at school I could only see through one eye for a week and kept running onto to stuff and falling down stairs.  Was one horrible experience.

And with pealing with a head warmer on in the hot QLD heat I may as well stick my head in the oven.  Ebikes are good with the helmet as you don't overheat with motor assist.  Lots of brain cells die at a 3 or 4 degree body temperature raising above what it would be when your body temp is already soaring.  A foam helmet will give a pedal biker that headache that will last for days when using them on very hot days..  I met too many pro cyclists that cant do much but ride bikes.  Doh!




BTW have you fixed those pedals yet?  Touch wood hmmm.

[Sundsvall]

Sounds horrible Leslie.

Do you happen to be one of those guys whose always manage to get in trouble, one way or the other?

The guys who always to jumped a little higher, stayed on the rail a little longer or made that impossible that no other guy dared to do?

I can tell you I was not, at least until I was a teenager then I catch up.


I try to wear a helmet all the time I’m on a bike, ever since I hit the ground a few years ago. Especially in the winter this is very important when the roads are full of ice and snow. We don’t usually have a problem with the heat, even if it can get pretty warm in the summer the sun isn’t as scorching as it is for you. In the winter I wear a helmet and goggles for downhill skiing since they are made for cold weather. When the temperature was -25°C the eyelashes freezes until I didn’t see anything, but with the skiing goggles there’s no problem at all.

Peter