Casted Dual Drive ;)

[MonkeyMagic]

Ok so I had a call from home saying there was a 'big' parcel for me....

I was suspicious what it was at first, but coming home from work I suddenly realised... I think I even began running lol
My cast 20" front wheel is here!!!

As much as I'm tempted to slap it on and go for a spin, I'm making front torque plates for it first and locking in the axle as much as I can.
It's on a steel frame bike with front suspension [steel forks] and I'm going to have it at full speed but only have 15% regen

Has anyone with a front wheel hub & front suspension had any problems?

I'm just thinking now that it weighs about 10 times the amount of my current front wheel lol my bike is a horse now, well 2 horse haha excuse my pun

[o00scorpion00o]

Ok so I had a call from home saying there was a 'big' parcel for me....

I was suspicious what it was at first, but coming home from work I suddenly realised... I think I even began running lol
My cast 20" front wheel is here!!!

As much as I'm tempted to slap it on and go for a spin, I'm making front torque plates for it first and locking in the axle as much as I can.
It's on a steel frame bike with front suspension [steel forks] and I'm going to have it at full speed but only have 15% regen

Has anyone with a front wheel hub & front suspension had any problems?

I'm just thinking now that it weighs about 10 times the amount of my current front wheel lol my bike is a horse now, well 2 horse haha excuse my pun

OH man, you are crazy!     2 pies on the one bike!

Modify them... I dare you ! muhahahaha

[Leslie]

All I can say.

You got a dual cast Pie bike.  Lucky you.

Hmmmm


LOL

Cant wait to see some pics.

Monkey

I got some of those 60 amp relays you suggested.  They both work but they are weird.  I thought they latched with a pulses.  

Well they do latch with pulses but to switch off and on you need to reverse the polarity.



Those relays are awesome as you can use a SPDT momentary switch to pulse the switch.  Saves so much work working any heat off resistive components you would need to hold a relay reed closed for the entire ride. Way more efficient than my previous design.

Thanks for that!

[MonkeyMagic]

Exactly why I bought them mate no worries

I work a fair bit with PIC chips so I usually throw something together that has a menu screen and a few buttons, maybe a voltage & current reference. I knew I could pulse them with even a $0.30c 555 so they were a good buy.

Haha try buying 2 switches with that rating cheaper than that! And they are relays sealed in epoxy so they will last until the switch contacts fail muhuahhahahaa

cheers

[Leslie]

Exactly why I bought them mate no worries

I work a fair bit with PIC chips so I usually throw something together that has a menu screen and a few buttons, maybe a voltage & current reference. I knew I could pulse them with even a $0.30c 555 so they were a good buy.

Haha try buying 2 switches with that rating cheaper than that! And they are relays sealed in epoxy so they will last until the switch contacts fail muhuahhahahaa

cheers

LMAO.

Thats gonna be scary.

PIC,  Been meaning to get into these again.

My eye sight isnt like what it was.  I found that you don't even need the cap.  I don't want to be running stuff when the bike is supposed to be off.  But that doesnt make your alarm system active this way..

I got a momentary DPDT centre off switch as I want to make it a "to hold it down for precharge and then relay kicks in about 500ms" so the pulse idea gets a little bit more complicated again.

How did you get the pic to invert the polarity for both wires to the relay coil terminals? Use four pins? Program it.  Can you share you code? The timer wouldn't do this so easy.  Gets a little complicated.  Need a dual timer.

With the pic things could get a little screwed if the power was to fail and the relay was revered.  Off would be on and on would be off.  Makes me dizzy.

You would need the program to check the output to set the pic to the right inversion.  More coding?.

I just hooked up my 3x3 watt cree clones I got fro AE. Blinded the family in the lounge room.  I can pump up to 3 amps @ 3.2v down from 60v through my LM2567 switcher.

Damned heat transfer adhesive I got from jaycar today was dried out and halted this project for today.

[vapid2323]

PICS!

[MonkeyMagic]

Damn jaycar and their rarely inferior products!!! arrghhhh

Gotta love jaycar tho... eat that dick smith you wanker lol beat you out of the small electronics competition!! haha
Okay, so PIC's are a piece of pie. Well as some aussies may say they are a a piece of piss haha what ever that is.

Anywho it is all logic, there is a standard set of commands. I use proton picbasic compiler
So I write my code in BASIC. And it is basic lol. I just have a bit of practice thats all.

And yeh its a 40pin pic so I have plenty of IO. I do it with 4 and 4 transistors (2xpnp,2xnpn) You could do it this way with 2 pins & a relay however.. Now that I think about it I could have done 2 pins with pullup/pulldown resistors lol oh well

Or you could use n~gate and simply send high or low signals to route the correct one to the transistors instead of a relay. A few options anyways

code is easy, build it into what ever
PULSOUT, (pin name/number), amount in milliseconds (100)

So my code is not based on a timer or interrupt or anything its just;
"IF this pin has voltage on it (the remote start is activated) THEN pulse this pin for 100 MS. If

There are a few different methods to get 'hooked' into. Much like guys like a holden or ford if you know what I mean... Anyways I prefer this group http://www.protonbasic.co.uk/ I think you will like them to because the name of a head creator and key code compiler is Les

[MonkeyMagic]

Ohhh getting there finally...

I've got to take more pics along the way but I've mainly been working on my junction box.

The wireless controller I was going to use doesn't work! (the receiver is faulty) so lucky I tested that haha
I was also going to mount my screens and panel meters inside the handlebars, with perspex pressed on each side making a dash type display. I decided to mount everything on top of my battery, using up that space instead.

So I've hard wired everything and have just finished hooking up the heated handlebars part lol

I'll take more pics tonight but heres the specs so far:

-Casted dual 20" cast MP
-48v mid frame mounted GM battery (with connections ready for 2nd on rear rack if I want)
-12v 6.8Ah lithium [system] battery hidden in frame, 135dB hidden mini siren
-Remote start with alarm, removed key wiring and replaced with relay coming from alarm wiring
(no more keys just use remote control to turn on and off the bike)
-Front & rear flashing signal indicators, rear taillight/brake light
-27W cree LED headlight, 2 x 5W LED removable torches wired to 5v circuit
-300dB police traffic horn, also acts as a decoy if alarm goes off because this is not the actual siren...
-16w Heated handlebar grips
-Handlebar controls [throttle, ebrake button, cruise, killswitch, heated grips switch,indicators,horn] wired through bars
-Backlight of speedo computer hooked up to headlight circuit so is always on at night. Hardwired computer.
-Computer wired to 2Ah 3.7v lithium battery [with resistor] so will last for ages! charges via in built circuit from 12v
-Rear night vision camera hidden under seat
-4.3" TFT lcd mounted on top of battery
-Isolated 5v circuit for panel meters, derived from 12v battery separate from 48v wiring
-3.5" panel mount blue led volt meter, monitors 48v & 12v battery
-3.5" panel mount blue led amp meter [100A shunt in junction box], 4AWG connections, with relay to monitor regen
-Mp3, am/fm stereo with ipod input. Speakers mounted on top of battery, removable

All of the accessories are run on the 12v 6.8Ah battery, pies are run on the 48v. All of the accessories are from eBay haha and cost me around $100 or so

I thought if I'm going to make a dual drive I might as well do something different. Plus all of the wiring is custom length and hidden where possible.

Anywho ill post more pics as I go so excited!


*had to PDF the pics cos you can only attach 4 at once?

[Bikemad]

It's looking very good so far, but will be even better when it's finished.

keep up the good work!

Alan
 

[Sundsvall]

Anywho ill post more pics as I go so excited!


*had to PDF the pics cos you can only attach 4 at once?

Great work!
Looking forward to the magical end and the belonging magical pictures.

Peter

[MonkeyMagic]

Okay so still a little tinkering going on, I put it on charge and thought it was a good time to take a few more pics.
Need to install torque plate on the forks or I was going to buy a couple or arms from ebike.ca but they are out of stock! waaa

Also need to get some black cable ties lol and possibly make a fiber glass cover if I can be bothered. Then maybe a bit of paint here and there. The wiring took some serious time and effort but all is good now (after quite a bit of troubleshooting mainly with remote start)

If I do make a cover, I'll get some cells and take out the horn speaker and replace with battery cells I think is a better place for them rather than a horn

Might take it out for a careful test run once I drill the holes on my front disc I had off the original wheel a bit bigger as the existing ones didn't line up with the front motor disc brake mount holes.

I'm hoping I only lose about 10-15km range and not sure how it will go running 1 wheel at a time then 2 on demand. Also a bit scared about the current draw even though Tom had given the OK in an email to set both the wheels to Max power settings :S

I have the rear wheel set at 65% regen and the front at 20% which I think should be OK, 75% on the rear wheel is what I had running, which I felt was Max appropriate for the battery and torque stress effects it would have.

Also thinking the wheels will actually draw much less with both going up a hill at once unless it is a really steep hill lol then I might be in trouble with the battery BMS.

Tom if you read this, can you please confirm again that I can leave the amp settings at Max on the controller with my 48v 12Ah battery? Thanks

Anyways heres some pics, I PDF'd a few others

[Bikemad]

I have the rear wheel set at 65% regen and the front at 20% which I think should be OK, 75% on the rear wheel is what I had running, which I felt was Max appropriate for the battery and torque stress effects it would have.

This is just my opinion, but I would have though it would be advantageous to have it the other way around, giving the larger braking force on the front where there is much more grip available during braking. You could even put additional switches in to enable you to independently switch either wheel between "regen" or "throttle kill" mode. It should be reasonably easy to configure the wiring, just ask if you would like more details and I'll see what I can come up with.

Do you currently have the brake switches wired separately to give independent front and rear regen?

If they are separate, you could put a diode (and switch if wanted) between the two switches to give rear only on the rear lever and dual regen on the front lever. This would give you the option of minimal or full regen according to which lever you used.

Alan
 

[Leslie]

How you fit all this in that small bike and still looks and is functional is awesome, but you still havemt fixed those damned pedals, tsk tsk.

Its a work of art though.

So well done.

One question.  How does that rear view work at night?  Do the car lights  bleed in the CCD or Cmos sensor?  Still tells you something is comming rather well in any case.

Excuse me to make some advise, maybe some infrared crees and go the full stealth assault mode for both front and rear night vision..  Drools

This would make the God of E-bikes the God of gods outright..

[Leslie]

Yes Alan even the front disc operates the rear regen and the rear disks operate the front regen.  But Im not sure about the throttle operating the same time when either brakes are applied.

I keep thinking of how good it would be to have both or either brakes switch both motors off and each brake independently operates regen on a single wheel at a time..

I still trying to find out what brake high and brake low pads are for on the controllers.

[MonkeyMagic]

G'day

Hey cheers for the advice its good to bounce ideas plus I need some

The reason I didn't want much regen at all on the front is all due to the torque forces on the suspension forks I thought could be an issue there. The rear is very solid and tight and you can literally nearly go over the handlebars if you are standing up and hit regen coming down a hill at speed lol

So I didn't want too much 'bend and flex' happening with the front forks I guess.

The infrared Cree lights sounds like a good idea. Lol I think it has enough stuff on there though and the lights would be somewhat directional anyways would you think? The cameras sensor is for a car rear view so it is okay with car headlights and shows where the headlights are coming from to let me know where the car(s) is. Its not too glarey during the day but could use a anti-glare screen

My electric brake levers are just hooked up to my brake lights, so liking the high and low regen idea I might change this because usually I just use one disc brake or regen alone when I want to slow a bit, and regen and disc brake at once when I am stopping quickly.

What are your thoughts on having both wheel regen values equal more than 100%? I would assume this would be bad for my pal Mr. GM 48v Lithium so I didn't want to go near the 100% value with the combined total.