GoldenMotor.com Forum
General Category => Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions => Topic started by: vapid2323 on May 19, 2010, 02:28:47 AM
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I have attached a video that shows what I am talking about...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZIfal2hWlR0 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZIfal2hWlR0)
This also will happen on a flat road aswell as a hill.
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Looks like some problem with the BMS - when the pie shutt down the lights still on.
So your battery is having a very deep low voltage when you use power.
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So, the BMS is nothing I myself can fix correct? Do you think this is something I need to pursue a replacement for?
How can I help confirm that your diagnosis is correct?
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I'm afraid that if I'm correct you can not fix yourself and could be considered to pursue a replacement.
Do you have a Voltmeter?
What type of charger do you have? Check its specification to see if it matches your battery.
To have confirmation about the problem you need to e-mail Tom, and wait for more reviews here about your problem.
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I'm afraid that if I'm correct you can not fix yourself and could be considered to pursue a replacement.
Do you have a Voltmeter?
What type of charger do you have? Check its specification to see if it matches your battery.
To have confirmation about the problem you need to e-mail Tom, and wait for more reviews here about your problem.
I can go get a Voltmeter (I need one anyhow lol)
I have a HP8204L3 but mine has a higher output than I see for this model 'Output: 54.6V/3A'
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I can go get a Voltmeter (I need one anyhow lol)
I have a HP8204L3 but mine has a higher output than I see for this model 'Output: 54.6V/3A'
If your battery is a 48v one it is the right one. Turn on the battery without the cable connected to it and measure the voltage right after charging, and then again after some use of the battery. I hope someone else could give a tip here too. I'm new with this too :D
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Test the voltage after a charge, post the results. Then put the volt meter probes over the battery output and repeat what you did in the video simulate the hill and observe the voltage. If it drops more 10v before it cuts out its not the controller. If the battery stays solid then its the controller.
The 48v pack I believe consists of 13 3.8v cells that require 4.2v to recharge each. Can I get a confirmation on this?
Gary could be right and the BMS is defunct, or a cell block is failing or something.
But it is important to rule out the controller or anything else before you move for a return.
LOL
I tried to rig up a GM brushless controller to a brushed motor by jumping the hall on the one channel IU was using. The bike would ride for 10 seconds and cut out.
I think there are a few things that can actually trigger symptoms like this one. A proper daignoses is going to take a little time and patients.
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Gary could be right and the BMS is defunct, or a cell block is failing or something.
I believe you mean Bruno? I just read this thread for the first time ;)
Gary
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It looks to me like a bad connection or throttle failure. But im not a tech guy. Leslie's test does seem to make sence. Did you receive both throttles? if so does the other throttle have the same result?
Gary
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Test the voltage after a charge, post the results. Then put the volt meter probes over the battery output and repeat what you did in the video simulate the hill and observe the voltage. If it drops more 10v before it cuts out its not the controller. If the battery stays solid then its the controller.
The 48v pack I believe consists of 13 3.8v cells that require 4.2v to recharge each. Can I get a confirmation on this?
Gary could be right and the BMS is defunct, or a cell block is failing or something.
But it is important to rule out the controller or anything else before you move for a return.
LOL
I tried to rig up a GM brushless controller to a brushed motor by jumping the hall on the one channel IU was using. The bike would ride for 10 seconds and cut out.
I think there are a few things that can actually trigger symptoms like this one. A proper daignoses is going to take a little time and patients.
I will go buy a volt meter today and run some tests, thank you all for your help!
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If the battery terminal has a broken core wire this cut out could happen, so where to test along the power cable for a volatge sag can make a difference.
If there is a bad short in the motor windings some controllers will cut from excessive current ect.
A loose, frayed wire or dry joint wire in the controller or battery pack might be shorting or disconnecting.
Does the vapid2323 have any experience with a volt meter? Some extra help here may be required.
Hey Vapid
Do you know how to do a volt test and a different test called current test with a multimeter?
Volts test the aggression of the electricity and the current is how thick that aggression is. Think of a river. High volts is a powerful river and high current is a wide river where much water passes by.
So a powerful and wide electric supply can give many watts. Any resistance and this gives heat by forcing power through a thin long area of conductor creating heat and thus creates both a V drop and I drop.
After the voltage test, Try testing the current you can find out how much current is going into the controller when it cuts out.
If the pack voltage sags by 5v to and the current is 2O amps at the touch of the throttle this means there is a short circuit in or after the controller.
Some pictures of the setup could be handy.
I will start to post up a glossary of technical terms soon and everyone's help will be much needed as terms differ from place to place.
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I just took my first reading, I am adding in the pictures so you can tell me if I did it correctly.. Also I cant seem to figure out how to read the amps, all I get on the meter is 000.
This is a reading after the Pie had ran for about 10-15 seconds (dont know if that matters)
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If your battery has just been charged, 48.5V is far too low, as it should be somewhere around 54.5V.
If the battery is 6 Volts too low to start with, I'm not surprised it's shutting down under load.
I suspect that the BMS is cutting out correctly due to the low battery voltage activating the
LVC as soon as the battery is subjected to any loading.
Either the correct charging voltage is not getting to the battery (charger voltage too low or BMS not passing the current) or there could be a problem with some of the individual cells within the battery.
Try checking the battery voltage while it's on charge and let us know what the voltage reading is.
It would also help if you can check the voltage coming directly from the charger output plug, but be very careful not to short the meter probes together.
I would expect the charger output to be at least 54V.
Also I cant seem to figure out how to read the amps, all I get on the meter is 000.
Your particular meter is only suitable for measuring very low current (0.2Amp max), if you were to try and measure your motor current with it, it would simply blow the built in fuse, so there's not much point in trying. ;)
Alan
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Output of Charger: 53.1V
Output of batt while on charger: 48.5V
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Is the charger finished charging befor you take it off the battery?
If it's an SLA charger, it won't work for the Li Ion batteries. (e.g. The battery will never fully charge)
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I have a HP8204L3
Kinda like this:
(http://img.diytrade.com/cdimg/334944/2072091/0/1260782280/HP8204L3_10S_42_2V_2_5A_Lithium_battery_charger.jpg)
It shows a Green LED when fully charged, and mine is showing just that :)
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If is the same as mine:
(http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2095.0;attach=1960;image)
So this chrager dows not give any voltage when it is disconnected of the battery, when it detects the battery it starts to work.
Im having problems with my battery, so when the BMS kicks off the battery the charger does not detect the battery! So I need to manually move the wheel pedaling with my hands than use the regenerative braking, this activates the controller and then you turn on the bms. And also my pie does not have even 5km of range anymore.
I'm sure mine is a battery problem, but yours could be the charger or be like mine but worst. (at least I can go to the bakery)
:D
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I just took my first reading, I am adding in the pictures so you can tell me if I did it correctly.. Also I cant seem to figure out how to read the amps, all I get on the meter is 000.
This is a reading after the Pie had ran for about 10-15 seconds (dont know if that matters)
Output of Charger: 53.1V
Output of batt while on charger: 48.5V
I will restate what Bikemad has posted before.
Test the voltage when it is charging and close to finish. Does the charger light go red at all when charger is connected? Test the voltage from the charger plugs on both sides when disconnected.
Test the volts from the charger unplugged, and the volts coming from the pack where you plug the charger in to see if there is a voltage to the pack for the charger,
Be sure not to connect the red and black wires when testing.
And the meter is not suitable for high amps.
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If there are good volts on both charger input plug and and charger output plug and you have no red light on the charger, Leave it plugged in over a whole night and try the bike late in the morning.
Post all voltages I mentioned before this post.
This is not how it should be but you can charge the pack slowly like this and it is a good idea to leave the pack on float charge while you await a possible replacement charger.
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Does the charger light go red at all when charger is connected? Yes, the red light never turns off unless the charger is off
Leave it plugged in over a whole night and try the bike late in the morning. Still Showing 48.5V
Test the volts from the charger unplugged. 53.1V
see if there is a voltage to the pack for the charger. I do have Volts
volts when the charger shows a yellow light.. The output of the battery will slowly increase has it gains more charge, data dosent seem usefull
I am not the best with electrical things but my guess is that my battery is bad not the charger?
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Is the charger finished charging befor you take it off the battery?
Yes I get a green light before disconnecting the battery
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see if there is a voltage to the pack for the charger. I do have Volts
volts when the charger shows a yellow light.. The output of the battery will slowly increase has it gains more charge, data dosent seem usefull
I am not the best with electrical things but my guess is that my battery is bad not the charger?
My bad I asked the wrong question. I am very sorry to put you through more tests. I thank you for your patients.
I am trying to post for you to understand yet I understand not much of the charger. Yellow green and red. My charger has green yellow and red. and red means its charging not yellow.
Ok the battery is charging when yellow light is on and the battery rises until it goes green.
You would be sure that the charger is charging the battery? SO your charger is working.
Ok next question.. this is important
When the motor cuts out is there any volts from the battery from the motor/controller connection? or is the battery not giving volts to the motor/controller and the battery management system (BMS) has cut the power from the battery to the controller.
Test.
Connect the probes so you can measure the volts from the battery when the controller is connected and turned on. Y. If you get volts from the battery socket on the pack when the controller is switched on, place your probes into the battery socket holes to test and do the following.
See the voltage 53.1v, twist the throttle and watch the volts. Do they drop fast and motor cuts out?
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He should have the same charger I have.
Two leds
One red that does not change color, it is only a power on led.
Second led is orange, or yellow, when charging, green when charged and off when the battery is not connected or the charger does not detects the battery (my case)
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See the voltage 53.1v, twist the throttle and watch the volts. Do they drop fast and motor cuts out?
If I've understood the test results correctly, it's only the charger voltage which is 53.1V, as the battery voltage does not rise above 48.5V (even during charging).
To me, this indicates that the BMS is not allowing the charging voltage to reach the battery, and the battery is therefore not being charged.
Unfortunately, the green light coming on does not necessarily mean that the battery has been charged, it just signifies that the charger output has risen to a pre-defined maximum voltage, combined with minimal (very low) current draw.
This would usually occur only when the battery is fully charged, but it can also happen if there is a poor or open circuit between the charger and the battery.
In this case the break in the circuit will be somewhere on (or connected to) the BMS.
If this battery was purchased direct from GM, an email will need to be sent to Tom (zhourenli@goldenmotor.com) explaining that the charger appears to work correctly, yet the battery remains at 48.5V and is not receiving any charge.
Alan
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I do have Volts
volts when the charger shows a yellow light.. The output of the battery will slowly increase has it gains more charge, data dosent seem usefull
I am not the best with electrical things but my guess is that my battery is bad not the charger?
I think the battery is charging. His English skills are making this a little difficult. I am still confused as to whether the charger is working or not.
Data doesnt seem useful.
What does this mean?
We will get to the bottom of this.
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I think the battery is charging. His English skills are making this a little difficult. I am still confused as to whether the charger is working or not.
His English is on the whole pretty good, and I don't see how you can misinterpret this statement:
Output of Charger: 53.1V
Output of batt while on charger: 48.5V
I therefore assumed that the charger is working, but the battery is not being charged.
Alan
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I do have Volts
volts when the charger shows a yellow light.. The output of the battery will slowly increase has it gains more charge, data dosent seem usefull
Yes but ::) ::) ::)
;D
He says here he has a yellow light here and the battery voltages rise when the charger charges. Or does he?
LiMn cells:
4.2v hot, 3.8v nominal and 2.5v discharged.
54.6/4.2v=13 cells.
13cells x 3.8v = 49.9v nominal.
13x 2.5v = 32.5v
32.5v = empty pack.
48.5v is not an empty pack.
Why is his battery BMS cutting out at 48.5v?
There is more to it I think.
I would assume the same if his battery was not going up in volts. I do assume its the BMS but I don't want to submit to this possibility just yet.
I have never owned an LI battery and I just go on what I read here. I'm scared to ask the question again you know.
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I vote for damaged cells. It can explain the low maximum voltage and high voltage drop during any load!
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I vote for damaged cells. It can explain the low maximum voltage and high voltage drop during any load!
Yes this is what the test with voltage probes on pack when twisting the throttle looking at the voltmeter is for.
I was thinking it could be a short in the motor drawing excessive current.
I do believe the controller has a safety off function for a few things too, overheating and other stuff.
He must rule out the charger, BMS or cells first.
Another test is a load test.
4X 15v 150 watt halogen bulbs in series.
(http://www.traderscity.com/board/userpix43/21842-15volt-150watt-halogen-lamp-50mm-diameter-reflector-gx5-3-g6-35-mr16-microscope-1.jpg)
Place four of these in series between both pack output terminals and use an amp meter to test load, These draw almost 15 amps and output almost 600 watts on a full pack, You only need to test for 5 minutes or so. More than 45 minutes and the battery may LVC. All lamps will get very hot so be careful.
This can work as a capacity test too.
With no controller connected and lamps placed over the terminals, the above test will weed out the bad packs from the good ones with no problems or chance of mistakes, providing human error is not any cause of failure.
The above 15 amp load test will test everything from the pack battery output, BMS, and detect possible battery terminal or cable intermittent failure.
I find dry joints in old TV's and stuff by tapping the operating circuit board gently with the plastic butt of a screw driver and observing the screen in a mirror. A singe flicker or noise crackle from the speaker and I mark the area of the PCB I was tapping and resolder the area.
I would do similar tests on an intermittent controller to see if a bumpy ride would cause me grief.
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Ok let me try and clear things up...
Originally I never had a volt meter, for instance when I recorded that video I had no way to test the volts.
When fully charged I only show 48.5v on the battery connectors (also the charging port shows the same number)
The output of the Charger itself is 53.1v (I don’t have a way to test if this is the same when connected to the battery)
While the battery is charging the outputs will show the battery’s current voltage, for example is will start at 40v and slowly increase over time to 48.5v.
I love the test idea with the lights but I don’t really have the time to do that.
I don’t believe it’s the Pie, as I am able to ride it up hills and really push it without it over heating or cutting out (hell I am 260lbs) the issue seems to show up because of the drop in voltage and because I am not receiving a full charge so I am only able to ride for about 1 mile before running into issues.
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One last thing, should my charger be giving the output that its rated for? Or is that ONLY when the battery is connected?
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Ok let me try and clear things up...
Originally I never had a volt meter, for instance when I recorded that video I had no way to test the volts.
When fully charged I only show 48.5v on the battery connectors (also the charging port shows the same number)
The output of the Charger itself is 53.1v (I don’t have a way to test if this is the same when connected to the battery)
While the battery is charging the outputs will show the battery’s current voltage, for example is will start at 40v and slowly increase over time to 48.5v.
I love the test idea with the lights but I don’t really have the time to do that.
I don’t believe it’s the Pie, as I am able to ride it up hills and really push it without it over heating or cutting out (hell I am 260lbs) the issue seems to show up because of the drop in voltage and because I am not receiving a full charge so I am only able to ride for about 1 mile before running into issues.
Yes this new information is the most important. The fact you get 1 mile is the sign. And your battery is charging from 40v to 48.5v.
Bruno I think has hit the nail on the head.
A damaged cell will give lower volts on a cell block maybe.
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One last thing, should my charger be giving the output that its rated for? Or is that ONLY when the battery is connected?
No only with the yellow light on.
This 53.1v on the charger is standby voltage made to keep the pack fully charged at its best without damaging the cells.. Which should be around 49v 50v when connected depending on the battery cycle life and size.
Your fully charged battery should read around 49.4v resting on no charger.
You can not trust the cheap volt meter for exact voltages and maybe expect a battery a few runs to get up its full charged resting voltages.
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Bruno I think has hit the nail on the head.
A damaged cell will give lower volts on a cell block maybe.
I keep calling Bruno Gary and Gary Bruno. I am very sorry. :-X
Its your avatars that confuses me, they have the same colour and the user name has GM in it, they are alike and I get mixed up.
Thanks Bikemad ;D
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Thank you everyone,
I will work on getting a replacement!
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One last thing, should my charger be giving the output that its rated for? Or is that ONLY when the battery is connected?
Your fully charged battery should read around 49.4v resting on no charger.
You can not trust the cheap volt meter for exact voltages and maybe expect a battery a few runs to get up its full charged resting voltages.
The voltage of Lithium batteries (unlike lead acid) does not tend to drop very much after they are fully charged, and I would expect the battery to still be up around 53-54V when unplugged from the charger.
I charge my LiPo packs to 4.2V per cell and they only drop around 0.1V per cell if unused for a couple of days!
From experience, I've found that my cheap digital voltmeters are all within ±0.02V, which is normally close enough. ;)
This battery should be accepting full charge, but for some reason it is not. This could be due to faulty cells, or the BMS/charger not supplying enough current/volts.
It should be relatively simple to check the voltage of each group of cells to determine whether they are all at a similar low level (indicating a BMS or Charger fault), or if just one or two groups of cells are low.
If a single cell fails in a short circuit condition, it will take the two other paralleled cells with it. If you lose 1/13th of you pack voltage, the LVC will cut in much earlier than it should, even if the rest of the cells are still quite full.
To do this would require removal of the end cover to access the balance lead connector on the BMS (see attached diagram) but I wouldn't advise doing this without obtaining Tom's permission to do so first, because the battery is presumably still under warranty.
Alan
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Yah and they have stickers on the caps that will show removal...
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One last thing, should my charger be giving the output that its rated for? Or is that ONLY when the battery is connected?
Your fully charged battery should read around 49.4v resting on no charger.
You can not trust the cheap volt meter for exact voltages and maybe expect a battery a few runs to get up its full charged resting voltages.
The voltage of Lithium batteries (unlike lead acid) does not tend to drop very much after they are fully charged, and I would expect the battery to still be up around 53-54V when unplugged from the charger.
I charge my LiPo packs to 4.2V per cell and they only drop around 0.1V per cell if unused for a couple of days!
From experience, I've found that my cheap digital voltmeters are all within ±0.02V, which is normally close enough. ;)
This battery should be accepting full charge, but for some reason it is not. This could be due to faulty cells, or the BMS/charger not supplying enough current/volts.
It should be relatively simple to check the voltage of each group of cells to determine whether they are all at a similar low level (indicating a BMS or Charger fault), or if just one or two groups of cells are low.
If a single cell fails in a short circuit condition, it will take the two other paralleled cells with it. If you lose 1/13th of you pack voltage, the LVC will cut in much earlier than it should, even if the rest of the cells are still quite full.
To do this would require removal of the end cover to access the balance lead connector on the BMS (see attached diagram) but I wouldn't advise doing this without obtaining Tom's permission to do so first, because the battery is presumably still under warranty.
Alan
Yes Ok. Thank you. Good to know about the rest voltage.
What if 2P out of 3p are faulty and only have a low voltage? There would be a voltage difference potential between the low cells and high cell, creating a discharge of watts until the good cells sits closer to the low cell voltage.
Then draw 20 amps through this series. Say there is a 1v difference between the good cell and bad cells when they are solo unconnected, 20 amps @1v = 20 watts. We have one cell providing 20 watts between the p connections of the bad cell and good cell and a two bad cells proving nothing at all.
Each cell can produce around 23 watts 70 watts in total for a 3p block. So the broken P block is actually useless and takes from the whole pack.
Possibly no current is allowed through the broken block at high load because the only good cell power is wasted on the bad cells instead of passing its energy to the next p block. Creating a high load bottle neck.
On a 20 amp draw at 48v = 960 watts. 1/13th of 960 watts is 76 watts. One cell block equals approx to 70 watts.
Could this be correct?
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Doing some tests with Tom
without BMS (B- and battery anode) 46.8V~53.95V (positive of battery(+) and B- 47.5)
with BMS (D- and battery anode) 46.8V~53.95V (positive of battery(+) and D- 47.6)
B1 green wire to: Specification
B2 yellow wire(the second wire) 3.6V ~ 4.15V I get 3.7v
B3 yellow wire(the third wire) 7.2V ~ 8.30V I get 7.3v
B4 yellow wire(the fourth wire) 10.8V ~ 12.45V I get 10.9v
B5 yellow wire(the fifth wire) 14.4V ~ 16.60V I get 14.6v
B6 yellow wire(the sixth wire) 18.0V ~ 20.75V I get 18.3v
B7 yellow wire(the seventh wire) 21.6V ~ 24.90V I get 21.9v
B8 yellow wire(the eighth wire) 25.2V ~ 29.05V I get 25.6v
B9 yellow wire(the ninth wire) 28.8V ~ 33.20V I get 29.2v
B10 yellow wire (the tenth wire) 32.4V ~ 37.35V I get 32.9v
B11 yellow wire(the eleven wire) 36.0V ~ 41.5V I get 36.6v
B12 yellow wire(the twelve wire) 39.6V ~ 45.65V I get 40.2v
B13 black wire(the thirteen wire) 43.2V ~ 49.8V I get 43.9v
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Sorry my last post was wrong..
Look for the largest voltage jump and the smallest jump.
Oh dear its getting confusing.
Give me a minute. LOL
43.9v - 40.2v = 3.7v
40.2v - 36.6v = 3.6v
36.6v - 32.9 = 3.7v
32.9v - 29.2v = 3.7
29.2v - 25.6v = 3.6v
25.6v - 21.9v = 3.7v
21.9v- 18.3v = 3.6v
18.3v - 14.6v = 3.7v
14.6v - 10.9v = 3.7v
10.9v - 7.3v = 3.6v
7.3v - 3.7v = 3.6v
Cell 1 3,6v
Cell 2 3.6v
Cell 3 3.7v
Cell 4 3.7v
Cell 5 3.6v
Cell 6 3.7v
Cell 7 3.6v
Cell 8 3.7v
Cell 9 3.6v
Cell 10 3.7v
Cell 11 3.7v
Cell 12 3.6v
Cell 13 3.7v
I am no expert here but the cell voltages appear to be good here.
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Yah I just updated my post, the odd readings where user error I have fixed them.
Could it be the charger?
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Why was you battery 48.5v and now 43.9v?
Can you charge it to 48.5v again.
You say.
While the battery is charging the outputs will show the battery’s current voltage, for example is will start at 40v and slowly increase over time to 48.5v.
If it charges to 48,5v this should enough to get you a lot further than 1 mile up the road. A lot further.
Even if the charger doesn't get you to full pack voltage and it is faulty you should be able to ride your bike until the pack voltage is down to 32.5v not 40v.
If your batteries are good the volts wont tell lies and pretend to be charged.
Maybe your BMS LVC is set too high.
Unless you do a load test I really cant tell you the absolute truth. The load test is definitive and allways tells it is your pack as you don't need the damned controller to get results. It is what professionals do to test batteries..
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When I did the test the battery was at 47.5v (one volt under my normal level)
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Battery load test. google it.
There are a few ways you can do this.
Id would just short it out with 20 meters of 10 amp cable through an amp meter designed to take 15+ amps and drain the pack until the wire was insulation was melting.
It takes me longer to do this post really than to do a load test..
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Cell 1 3,6v
Cell 2 3.6v
Cell 3 3.7v
Cell 4 3.7v
Cell 5 3.6v
Cell 6 3.7v
Cell 7 3.6v
Cell 8 3.7v
Cell 9 3.6v
Cell 10 3.7v
Cell 11 3.7v
Cell 12 3.6v
Cell 13 3.7v
I am no expert here but the cell voltages appear to be good here.
Good because they are pretty well balanced, but unfortunately they are in a low state of charge.
The readings for these cells would appear to be perfectly acceptable for an almost flat battery, which is basically what it is.
The cells are not being charged anywhere near enough. If it's only reaching 48.5V, that's only just over 3.7V per cell.
If you look at the attached diagram, you can see that it probably has less than 5% of its total capacity available for use, which is why it is cutting out so quickly.
I don't know whether the fault lies with the charger or the BMS, but having seen the cell readings, I'm now 100% sure it's just going to be a charging problem.
Hopefully Tom can come up with the answer.
Alan
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OMG I THINK I FIXED IT!!!!
On the back of the charger, you have a switch 230 for Europe and 115 for USA...
I had it on 230 the whole time, as soon as I changed it, the charger fliped from a green (done chargeing light) to a yellow light! now my volts jumped up to 49.5 I am going to let it finish and see if I am at the needed level!
I hope it was really this simple.
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OMG I THINK I FIXED IT!!!!
On the back of the charger, you have a switch 230 for Europe and 115 for USA...
I had it on 230 the whole time, as soon as I changed it, the charger fliped from a green (done chargeing light) to a yellow light! now my volts jumped up to 49.5 I am going to let it finish and see if I am at the needed level!
I hope it was really this simple.
That would definitely account for the poor charging problem, I assumed the charger would be an auto detect type, but obviously it's not.
Glad you've got it sorted anyway.
And don't forget to let us know what the fully charged voltage is. :D
Alan
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You know this should have been a quick fix on MY part but I don't think about this sort of thing, if I buy a charger in USA its always set to 115. It might be a good idea to place a sticker on the charger for us dumb USA people that don't check this sort of thing ;D
BTW I am now at 51.3 and still charging
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Oh my.
It was that simple. Any wonder between all this help couldn't put a finger on the problem.
If all goes well. We all learned something here and next time we have a similar problem even ourselves we know about this.
You know Vapid. Thank you for sharing this with us. And letting us know how good your bike rides is going to make it all worth while. For me anyway.
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End Volts = 54.5v
OUTSTANDING!! Thank you all for your help!!
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The range of the bike?
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OMG I THINK I FIXED IT!!!!
On the back of the charger, you have a switch 230 for Europe and 115 for USA...
I had it on 230 the whole time, as soon as I changed it, the charger fliped from a green (done chargeing light) to a yellow light! now my volts jumped up to 49.5 I am going to let it finish and see if I am at the needed level!
I hope it was really this simple.
I also thank you for posting this solution. It is one of those things that when you realize it you don't want to admit it. Doh!
Gary
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The range of the bike?
So I have been trying to get out and ride my bike but it has been raining for the last week :( And its STILL raining!
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Seems that a big black cloud is always over your head.
This maybe for good reason. I think its a test of patients.
The univeral powers maybe telling you something about the awesome powerfullness of your new bike and to make sure you have got everything from the kit install to brakes to the care you take riding it.
Waiting and wanting.
When you get out there, take care and always alert pedestrians with a bell when you ride up behind them and ride slow.
Another ebiker around town here just flies past pedestrians from behind, no warning. It makes me cringe to see this.
Even myself was guity of this on my first ride, its easy to do. I just didnt think.
I see in a vision of the close future, the clouds will go away and you will be very happy.
I hope it all goes to plan.
Good luck.