GoldenMotor.com Forum

I have one of the original golden motor wheels and upgraded to the first generation BAC Controllers
with Molex connectors and Chinese labeling.  I then upgraded to the newer BAC controller, but the wiring is different on
the 12 pin connector.

The wheel came with 2 and 3 connectors going to a 12 pin white molex style connector.   
(Like a PC power harness)

The new controller came with multi-color JST style locking connectors.
Where can I source the male version of the JST style wire to wire connectors?

Thanks for the advice.

It looks like either the disc or the caliper mounting bracket is incorrect, therefore you have three options:
1) Use a 140mm disc with the existing caliper and bracket.
2) Use the correct 180mm caliper adapter with the 180mm disc rotor (the adapter attached to the brake caliper not the new adapter bolted to the axle).
3) Use longer bolts and spacers/washers with the existing 140mm caliper bracket and 180mm disc.

If Golden Motor were supposed to have supplied you with a matching disc and brake caliper, I would ask them to rectify the problem.
I'm not sure how their return system works as I have never needed to return anything, so you'll have to contact them directly and ask.

Alan
 

Right.  I did miss the link.  I'm not a genius but I'm looking at the rear bracket I installed, the disc and actuator (caliper) low and behold it doesn't fit.  The caliper is down on the disc all the way one screw is in and the other screw looks to be held back by the disc. from going down to the bracket (5mm).  But looking at the disc it is a 180 and I'm looking at the actuator and it is for a 140.  Could that be the reason it doesn't fit?

Does Golden Motor do returns?

Unfortunately I have no experience with the Curtis ET-135 throttle or Curtis controllers, so it is difficult for me to understand exactly how the (Forward) and (Reverse) connections on the throttle are supposed to be implemented.
Therefore, I would simply use a separate switch connected to the Brown and Black (Reverse) wires on the controller to select the reverse function (closing the switch contacts should engage Reverse).
Please Note: 48V must not be used to operate the Reverse function.

For the throttle connections you probably need to connect the Black/White wire to Pin 1 (Pot Lo) and the Green/White wire to Pin 8 (0-5V output).
Please Note: the +5V Red/White wire from the VEC300 controller must not be connected to the ET-135 throttle!

Hopefully this wiring diagram below is the same as the ET-135 throttle as the only difference between the two throttles appears to be a return spring fitted to the ET-126:



I suggest that you check the output voltage measured between the (PotLo) and the (0-5V output) connectors using a voltmeter to confirm it is working correctly (and stays within the expected 0-5V range).
This voltage should change progressively from 0V to 5V when the throttle is moved slowly from the OFF position to the FULL THROTTLE position.

If the maximum output voltage exceeds 4.8V then the motor may cut out at maximum throttle position due to the VEC300 controller's throttle protection function.
However, it should be possible to add a 10kOhm variable resistor (or physically limit the full movement of the throttle) to reduce the maximum output voltage to an acceptable value if necessary.

I suggest that you also make a note of the maximum and minimum voltage readings, as they will be very useful if you want to fine tune the throttle range voltages in the controller to closely match the available throttle movement. 

Alan
 

I'm pleased to hear that you've got both motors working, but the 902 mini motors are unable to produce any torque in reverse due to the internal unidirectional clutch.

Without know what voltage motors and battery you are using it is difficult to know what the best settings will be, but I would not set them anywhere near the controller's maximum settings as passing too much current through the mini motors can strip the teeth off the nylon gears and also overheat the windings, which sometimes melts the insulation on the wires resulting in a short circuits:



Drawing just 10 amps at 36 volts (or 15 amps at 24 volts) equates to 360 watts, which should produce an output power of 288 watts at 80% motor efficiency, which is already more than the 250 watt rated power for the mini motors.

However, I suspect that your smaller diameter wheels and dual motors will be less susceptible to overheating as they should be under a lot less load than an identical single motor in a larger diameter wheel.

Alan