Newb having trouble with mini motor and BAC-501

[Morgen 3Eman]

Hi Fly

Hey, I have recently been accused of being a board bully, so please don't take this the wrong way:  None of us can help you very much if you do not answer the questions we pose.

 Trouble shooting requires accurate information.  I'm sure you think some of our questions are dumb as a post,  and mine may be nothing more than the musings of an old geezer with a fading memory,  but I can assure you that Alan is one smart guy.  You have to help us by directly answering our questions....

Again, I have don't mean to bully you, I'm just trying to explain to you what we need to be able to help you.

TTFN,
Dennis

[simplyfly]

trying to answer your questions as acurately as possible, did I miss something?

[Morgen 3Eman]

Hi Fly

I hate to be pedantic, but you missed a few of these:

There is no wire in sight that looks to me like it is rated for 100 Amps.   Is there any sign of discoloration or bubbling on any of the wiring?  Are there areas that seem stiff? or floppy?  What wire is brittle?  These are all signs of overheating.  I have seen much larger wires burnt open by much less than 100 amps. 

There is a connector pair of yellow and white, with a red wire mating with a green wire.  What is that connecting?  As an old gear head, seeing red and green wires connected together scares the hell out of me.  Differing color connector pairs scare the hell out me, too. 

There are a lot of interconnections  that I assume are made with solder joints.  Bad electromechanical connections caused about 80% of all the electronics problems I resolved in a 40 year career as a troubleshooter.   What is your soldering experience?  What equipment and supplies did you use?  How did you join the wires before soldering?

Do you have access to a digital voltmeter?

How recently did you have this working on the bench?  Was it exactly this assembly of parts? 
 

There was a shot of a red wire with a bulge in the middle.  It looked like it was on a seat or something.  What is that for, and if it is important enough to photograph, why isn't in the circuit?

How do you plan to test the hall sensors?


TTFN,
Dennis

[simplyfly]

the wire from the battery is rated for 100A. There are no bulges, heat marks or any other type of indication that the system is failling or has failed due to this.

all connections are made according to the PDF relesed by golden motor. any solder joint was made using the higest grade materials, and using proven techniquies. I regularily use this type of equipment in my other hobby... so I am sure the connections are correct, and proper.

I have a nice digital volt meter, and I know how to use it

I have not had this working recently, it was tested almost a year ago, and lkeft due to other projects and commitments. The parts are as listed. Mini motor, controller and thottle. all golden motor equipment, all new.

the red wire, on  the seat is not part of the system. It is the cable that connects to the switch, which I have bypassed. it is not required, and as you can see from the video, the lights are on, but no body is home.....

I plan to test the hall sensors by following the methods described above.

I don't find you a bully, or pedantic... I just want my e-bike to work. any help is appreciated

[Morgen 3Eman]

Hi Fly

Ok, since you have experience with electronics, I wont bother telling you how to hook up the DVM, insulate disconnected wires, etc.   I'll just tell you what I would do:

1:  Electrically separate the two systems, and test them one at a time.  Ensure there are no electrical connections from one controller to the other.   

2: Measure the winding resistance from phase to phase.  All six measurements should be similar. 

3: Power up one system and see if it works.  If it doesn't, I would measure the 5VDC  going to the Hall sensors, then test that each of the Hall sensor outputs go up and down as the wheel is rotated. 

4: Measure the supply voltage to and the signal voltage from the throttle.   The signal should go up and down and stay steady as you move the throttle about.  Record the min and max signal voltage to compare when you test the other controller.

5: Measure the voltage at each of the rest of the controller connections and record for comparison.  Record the measurements for anything that you have to activate, re: brakes, etc

6:  Repeat for other system.


Hopefully, somewhere in the above, you will find an anomaly to lead you to a solution.

TTFN,
Dennis

[Sangesf]

If the hall sensors are shot, you won't get any motion from the mini-motors as they don't work sensorless (without hall sensors)...
Have you tested the halls yet?

[simplyfly]

what would/ could cause the sensors to fail?

[GM Canada]

I have a question. Please refer to the picture attached.

[simplyfly]

Gary, the switch connects to the positive terminal..... if you are sugersting that the switch does not connect to the terminal, why is it labeled B+, just like the terminal?

Also, what took you soo long to see this


What about al your estimeed cooleges, did them miss this as well... or are they just like all your other forum members.... imaginary.