BAC-028x and Magic Pie

[DirtyGinge]

I got a lyen controller up to 65A ( more if modded traces), for $129 & 22 shipping to the UK from san fransisco

On a cold start, I can peak 52A though a rear pie on a 150KG bike  ( with controller set to 30A), then continue at 25MPH for 25 Miles using about 12AH.....

He has more powerful controllers, but personally, 40 amps average is a very powerful pie.... ( wheelie powerful, if your not careful at lights)

[MonkeyMagic]

Hey that means your signature is wrong now

[DirtyGinge]

well technically, I have dual pies, just that ones in the shed awaiting sale 

sure ill change it soon....erm, gotta think of something witty, maybe even with out a drunk typo

[suprted1]

Then I am running with my 0282 external, the internal one didnt like my shunt mod!
The external sounded nice at freewheel testing, and did 8Amps actually,sweet rpm
Ill be back with details and amps later, when ive done a proper ride in a few minutes.
testing with wattsup meter, and tightened spokes with thread lock added. And a backpack with proviant and tools

Cheers

[Bikemad]

Ill be back with details and amps later, when I've done a proper ride in a few minutes.

I'm guessing 20-21 Amps Max, but we'll just have to wait and see the actual results.

Alan
 

[suprted1]

Maxed out at 23 Amps, but actually very nice, average on flat road is 35-45kp/h depending on wind. Had to work a little to keep it above 30 in steep hills, but still allright. I would really like 5-10 amps more, then it would be perfect. But I am pretty satisfied.
Does anyone know if I may pick up another 5-10 amps through software mods ? Or do I have to do some hardware mods ?
Since the website says 48V/50A, and manual says 48V/30A.

Disatance on 15s 8000mah LiPo was about 20 kilometers, but I don't know exactly, there has been some testing++
And I have to run on 10S until I get beneath the 60V limit, tried to start at 60,15V, but NO. At 59,xx it works fine.

When running normally on full pedal, the power consumption was about 800-1100W, topped at 1300W or around there.
Both motor and controller is keeping cold, so in my opinion 30Amps would run smoothly.

50km/h is quickly achieved when slow downhill,

So its allright to bike onroad where 50km/h is the limit.

[Bikemad]

Does anyone know if I may pick up another 5-10 amps through software mods ? Or do I have to do some hardware mods ?
Since the website says 48V/50A, and manual says 48V/30A.

And actual figures tend to vary between 16 and 30 Amps.

I don't think you are going to increase the power by just using software, a shunt mod is the only way to get more power out of your controller, but unfortunately this can also cause controller shut-down and even total failure if the power is increased too much.

I'm genuinely amazed that my controller is still alive and working, and I hope it will continue to keep going for as long as possible.

Alan
 

[suprted1]

Is there any good ideas about what to do with the shunt, to increase power ut to 25_30 Amps ?
I tried my first shunt mod on an internal controller yesterday, and it didnt work afterwards for some reason.
Im pretty steady when soldering, so I don't understand why this works perfectly for some.

what did you do to the shunt ? Details is nice...

If im not completely wrong, the 0282 is the same as the internal controller, just in another casing.

[Bikemad]

I think a single loop of fine wire (a leg from an LED) soldered across the shunt, but not touching it should give you a reasonable power increase, without being too much:



Check out this post for more details of my shunt mod.

Please note that any shunt modification will invalidate the warranty and can also cause the death of a controller.

You have been warned!

Alan
 

[suprted1]

I saw this mod, when I tried on my internal controller.

I thought, since this led foot made a 5 amp increase, I added 3 led feet to my internal controller, and then might increas somewhere about 15 Amps, but the controller died

So this calculation didnt work flawless, but well, a lesson richer. The risk is a part of the fun when modding. But its always nice with some ideas when trying.

So when im ready for some more modding, ill try this a little more careful, and se what happens.
Otherwise I might remove the shunt from one of my f*%ked controllers, and check the resistance of it at work. And thereby I might find the perfect solution.

Did you do any programming as well, or just did this shunt mod and flew away with some amps extra ?

[Bikemad]

Did you do any programming as well, or just did this shunt mod and flew away with some amps extra ?

Mine's an early Pie, so programming was not an option for me.

Apart from a couple of exceptions, most controllers seem to have been pre-set for the lowest voltage and the maximum current as standard, which is why you're unlikely to increase the power just by reprogramming the controller.

I think GM should correct their advertised maximum current figures to match the actual controller output, or better still, provide controllers that actually produce the stated power output.

If a manufacturer sold a battery that was advertised as being a 50Ah capacity, but it turned out to only be 23Ah, people would rightly complain.

Would a car manufacturer be allowed to sell cars that were advertised as having a 50HP motor, but produced just 23HP?
I think we all know the answer to that one.

Perhaps, if the advert stated, "the standard 23HP motor supplied with this car can be modified to produce up to 50HP", then it might just be acceptable.

Alan
 

[o00scorpion00o]

If I remember correctly, while I added an extra "shunt" in the (external) controller, I turned the software max continuous amps down to 7 amps and the max, I think, to 10 or 12, not that will depend of course on your own shunt you added!

But in reality this controller by design is not built for more than 20 amps, the thermal limitations of the heatsink are just too much!

@ 30 amps I killed it mainly because it got too hot!

It's a pity it didn't have some form of thermal control.

I doubt my medded internal pie controller would have lasted either.

So if modding the external controller I strongly advise anyone to take apart the controller and install it on some big heatsink, or it will definitely die!

These controllers supplied by GM are just not for high power setups, I.E more than 1kw, and with all the write ups here, it's just a waste of money for anyone to use them for non stock use! For not much money extra you can get a decent Infineon or Kelly controller. The Kelly controllers are not that expensive if you go for one of the lower power ones such as the ones for E-Bikes. And there is a load of software settings you can change on them to match them perfectly to any motor.

My suggestion is always buy a controller that's way over rated for your current setup if it's up to 1kw because 1, it will be easier on it, 2 you will always want a more powerful setup and it will save money in the long term!


Mark