48V12Ah Battery problem

[Leslie]

This can be easy installed onto the BMS module.



The idea allows one to bypass the BMS with a simple 14 pin adapter connection to the BMS sensor wire connector that is soldered onboard the BMS PCB to B+ and B-

You just unplug the BMS sensor 12 pin connector and plug into the new on board adapter connector that pin 1 and 14 is soldered to B+ and B-.

The access cable is which can be plugged in at anytime to have easy safe access to cell blocks.

It looks complicated but it is easy and just needs two wires to be soldered to install the adapter.  The access cable is a 14 pin connector with 7 12 two pin connectors that one can plug an individual cell block charger onto any one or more connectors.

All connectors can only be inserted in one polarity orientation to avoid use error.

Requires GM to make the adapter and install the adapter to the BMS, (two wires) and to make available the access cable online.

[GM Brazil]

Well, the only thing we need is to have the authorization to open the product without loosing the warranty - this should be automatic for dealers. At least I'll do papers on the battery test to certify the analysis for clients.

The authorization from tom to open the products should be only necessary to direct clients - so he will have less load and better response time!

With this thread I'l writing the "manual of GM batteries malfunction analysis" or "Standard procedures to determine warranty issues" Is very simple by now and look that it can fit a small notepaper

A- Before all, check for impact scars

1- Check the charger feed voltage settings and output
2- Check if there is current from the charger to the battery during charge and charge times from an BMS cutted off battery
3- Test the battery capacity in Ah using the standard 0.5C load
4- Check the battery voltage on full and empty states
5- Ope the battery and check for cold welds, test continuity of cables
6- Test the cells blocks voltages in full and empty states
7- Check the cells block voltages during load
8- Check the resistance of cell blocks and state of the soldering (is this possible?)

With this procedure sequence and expected values do compare it is possible to eliminate the cell problem. For the BMS we need the schematics for testing the circuits - like those we an buy for any electronic equipment repairs or have the BMS board for sale as replacement parts for dealers. We need a procedure to test the BMS

When this procedures became well documented here, just the authorization to open the battery from tom to final clients would be enough to start a community test sequence less e-mails needed to Tom

[GM Brazil]

Still no answer from tom or anybody about what to do after the cell testing and how to solve and identify the origin of the problem. With some planning I"m able to use the bike to ride to work - I just need to use my force for two kilometers when going to and for come back it is ok as I charge the battery there during the day

But today I have a new problem - not the battery, but the charger. I forgot to turn off the charger before plug it in the wall. Some spark comes out from the wall plug while connecting and now the charger says that the battery is always charged and DO NOT CHARGE ANYMORE.

After that I blow the internal fuse by mistake, when I chage the set up from 220v to 110v while connected to a 220v wall plug. This problem is simple to solve, just change the internal fuse, that you can see in the picture attached. But about the charger not charging the battery I have no solution and no visually aparent burned component.... How Can I fix or test it if there is service schematics available??

Anyone have any ideas? Thank you.

By the way - the charger guts look of great quality besides the fact it failed....

[e-lmer]

When I blew my charger it fried a diode on the board
and it opened one of the transformer legs (melted little
wires.)  The diode was easy to replace, but the transformer
was not.

[TOM]

need to replace cells

[MonkeyMagic]

Yes I would head straight for the transformer

As you noticed the failure upon plug in, I would be looking at the components closest to the power supply input

cheers

[GM Brazil]

The internal fuse is burned for sure.

All the common diodes are ok. The problem was that the charger always acts like the battery was fully charged - So I'm afraid that could be an IC problem...

The transformer seems to be ok. I'll change the board fuse today and check it while on.

Thanks for the help!!

The battery stills waiting for Tom reponse....

[dicko]

Hello

Any of you guys with battery problems had a reply from GoldenMotor regarding returns or warrenty?
Everyone seems to be testing their batteries (Myself included) but no action from GM to replace the faulty cells.

Any help would be greatly apreciated.

thanks
Australia

[Leslie]

Yes seems a few are getting slow response.


Try tom@goldenmotors.com

You could try leaving the charger on for a few days to allow the battery to balance.  Especially if you drain the battery down below 30% SOC.


I'm not sure of the success but you could use a timer to aid this balance stage.  You time the charger to go on and off every 30 mins for 12 hours 6 hours on and six hours off then set the timer to stay on for the remainder of the 12 hours on the dial.

This can allow the high cells time to cool and let the BMS bleed the high cells down when chargher switches off and when the charger switches back on the lower cell get another chance to catch up.

[GM Brazil]

I can not find the on board fuse. I'll put an external type and jump the burned one. Besides the fuse the Charger still acting like the battery is full and does not charge it. I'm waiting my product stock to be released from our customs so I can buy one from my self to substitute the old one.

And a new battery.... As it is a warranty problem... I'll keep my old battery for future needs.... Like use all the good cells for other (clients) warranty problems.

I'll care about the warranty with my own resources.... For now...

[Leslie]

Hi Bruno.

If youre gettingsparks from the wall connection it about time you threw the charger out.  The parts that could need replacing could be dangerous to work on and test.  There are fets that pulse into the primary winding of that transformerthat maybe not functioning properly or the transformer winding varnish is leaking,   


You take a risk palying with the primary circuits.  Some things are better to make on blank etched PCB and then use and other things easy to repair.

[GM Brazil]

Thank you!

The sparks happened because of a defunct "computer filter" at the wall and by the fact that I plugged the charger to the wall while the charger was turned on by the switch - something I never did before.... I always connected the charger off and then turn the switch on, this times when I plugged I forgot to check the button and the charger instantly detected the battery as fully charged and shutting down the relay, turning the led green and with no more current for the battery... After the sparks comes from the wall plug.

I know that is the "computer filter" fault because this filter already burned other electronics with this spark problem (I should already put that thing on the trash by the way... lol)

I'll get a new on from my stock, as it is not a warranty problem for the charger.

But still the battery problem. I do not know if is a quality problem or not and how to determine it when it comes to be my clients battery problems.

For my battery I'm not worry, I'll just buy a new one from myself, but for the clients I'll need to know HOW to clearly define witch is and witch is not a warranty problem - this is is my warranty problem besides the no answer from Tom.