Magic Pie 3 with Cycle Analyst V3 "stuttering"

[MrWallyMan]

Hello, I've been lingering around the forum for over a year now; ever since I received my Magic Pie 3 new but old stock without the 4 way harness. Well I finally bought all needed parts and finished building my 2+KWh battery pack out of LG HE4 cells and finally got everything hooked up but have run into an issue:

If I turn the throttle faster than very very gradually the motor starts to stutter and won't get Upto speed. If I very very gradually apply the throttle then I can get it  to spin up nice and fast but if I apply too much pressure on the tire (I have thus far only tested it by picking up the rear wheel and turning the throttle) then it slows to a stop and begins stuttering while not really moving forward then quits after  two or three seconds of stuttering.

I am using a Cycle analyst 3dps along with a thumb throttle, both purchased from GM website. I TRIED messing with the settings in the CA3 but it made the problem worse so I reset it back to default values.

Please tell me someone has experienced similar issues and was able to fix it by tweaking the settings in the ca3?

[Bikemad]

Hi andto the forum.

Unfortunately, I have never used a Cycle Analyst so I don't know what the correct settings should be when used with an MPIII controller.

After looking at the CA3 setup details on goldenmotor.bike, I am wondering whether you may have the Current level set incorrectly:

Current (A): User throttle controls the battery current, from 0A up to the value in Max Current. If using this mode, it makes sense to have your CA’s Max Current equal to or lower than the controller’s current limit, otherwise, only part of the range will be mapped.

I would suggest a default setting of 25 Amps for this setting, but if that's not causing the problem, you should be able to temporarily select the "Pass-Thru" option (hopefully preventing the CA3 from controlling the throttle signal output) to check that the MPIII controller is working correctly.

Hopefully, someone who has used a Cycle Analyst will be able to make further suggestions.



Alan
 

[MrWallyMan]

Thank you for your reply, it is much appreciated.

So I went thru and set the amps to match the 35A that the controller is rated for. The default CA throttle mode is pass thru, which stutters a bit less but still renders the electric propulsion unusable.

[MrWallyMan]

Could this in some way be related to a battery voltage that is higher than the internal controller is set for? I don't have a USB cable adapter with which to adjust the internal controllers settings and am using a 14 series li-ion pack which charges to 58.8V. Could this possibly cause this issue? My understanding is that it shouldn't matter and really only comes into play when using a pack with a voltage lower than the controller's LVC (low voltage cutoff).

[Bikemad]

Something obviously isn't working correctly, perhaps a poor connection somewhere on the battery wiring or even a Hall Sensor wire or Phase wire connection within the controller itself.

I would suggest removing the internal controller and checking the Hall Sensor and Phase wire connections to ensure everything is properly connected. Make sure that none of the pins/sockets in the Hall Sensor connector have been pushed out the rear of the connector during insertion.



If you cannot find an obvious fault, it could possibly be that the controller itself is causing the stuttering. 

It is unlikely to be your battery voltage causing the problem as the MPIII controllers can handle actual voltages from ~20V up to 60V maximum (Please note that it will not work with a nominal 60V battery, which is much too high, as it would be nearer to 70V when fully charged).

Unlike the MP4 and MP5 Vector controllers, the MPIII square wave controllers used to run on 24V, 36V or 48V batteries regardless of the voltage setting in the programming software.
Before I replaced it with a MP4, I regularly used my MPIII on both 7S and 14S lithium packs on the 24V setting without a problem.

The typical battery current draw with a MPIII controller was 25~30A maximum, which is why I suggested setting your CA current setting to 25A.

Alan
 

[MrWallyMan]

So I just took my motor controller out to check it for bad connections etc. which were all in order. I put everything back together thinking maybe one of the connections had been loose but it still is doing the exact same thing. I'm starting to think my controller is bad and that my plans to convert it to an external controller may just need to be expedited.

I have had this controller sitting around for quite a while now that I'm thinking may just fit the bill. It says it's made by sican industry and has "www.sicanindustry.com" on the label but my efforts to locate any information about it at all have proven to be completely fruitless. The label States that it is rated at 35A at 48v or 64v and it says that it's 1500w. When I removed the board from the aluminum shell the circuit has little jumper pads labeled 60v, 64v, 72v, and 80v and the large capacitors on it indicate that they're good up to 80v. It has 3 shunts on the board and there's 15 fets.

Am I correct in thinking that I can run this controller at 80v and perhaps modify it a bit to get at least a little more that 35A out of it reliably? Also, with the exception of the obvious wires (such as the phase, Hall sensor and battery +/-wires) I have no way of knowing which wires to connect to where on my CA3 and MAGIC PIE 3, any chance anyone knows what all these little 1, 2, and 3 character labels are on the bottom of the board and what the correct way to implement this controller into my system would be?And are there any mods that I can likely perform to this controller to make it handle more amps? And are those little places to solder in a Cycle analyst plug down in the bottom right hand side of the board?

I am going to have to post a couple replies so I can get all the pictures uploaded

 Any assistance with this is very very much appreciated..

-Wallace.

[MrWallyMan]

And here's the rest of the pictures...

[Tommycat]

Hi Wally,

Just wanted to say you might want to take the time to verify that your motor's hall sensors, and phase wires check out O.K. Before going to all that effort.

This link will provide you with helpful information with some simple checks. And testing of the motor's hall sensors without the need of a controller.
https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/kits/golden-motor-magic-pie/110168-testing-bldc-motor-s-phase-wiring-hall-sensors-and-wiring


Best of luck,
T.C.