Hi everybody,
I’m a brand new member to this forum and I need to give my greatest praise - it’s a fantastic site!
I must capitulate and need your expertises order to get further with my ‘patient’ in surgery 😅
First of all:
I’m not that great at English and especially not the grammar and yet this post is very long - now you have been warned 🙈
It’s my first Golden Motor experience and I have been busy reading 85% of the posts and answers at this forum but unfortunately I haven’t yet found the answers I’m so desperately searching for, but now you know that I have tried to do my homework before just asking the grownups 😜
Long story short:
No, it’s not 😅 If you’re not interested in reading the whole initial report to my actual question, just skip it and scroll down to the #################
Well, once upon a time...
An old friend of mine adopted an electric ‘kick bike’ years ago and uses it at work, since his old knees is getting worse.
A Dutch company built this kind of a ‘kick bike’ named Swing in 2012-2014 or something like that.
The front wheel is a 48v Golden Motor and it drove like a charm until it suddenly and out of nowhere just reversed the function and direction of the throttle. It just took of at max rpm and decreased when moving the lever 🤷
He asked me for help since I’m a nerd of another dimension and enjoy to make desk research and troubleshoot within all the technical/mechanical/electrical areas (etc) that I haven’t already worked with/studied.
He told me that one of his colleagues, a electrician, had helped him fixing other thing on the bike before, but it were expensive and it took him weeks to perform.
It gave me reason to believe that I should be worried. I examined the bike and its setup thoroughly and found out that I were right: an absolute incompetent moron of a electrician had made some extreme idiotic quick fixes within the ‘wiring harness’ and even worse - he had chopped of every single connector and plug and made some even more idiotic soldering with three different wire combinations and colors ending up in a talentless and terminal solution which was also just dangling and unprotected inside the frame (see the picture and feel my anger). I was terrified. It’s unnecessary to do such things and especially when it wasn’t even cheap. Sad for my old friend that got “robbed” by that moron ??
I started to troubleshoot the system and tried to gain the relevant specs for the system. I found this amazing forum and a was eager to ask you for help, since it was a very strange and uncommon issues within e-bike systems.
A lot of your questions/answers helped me further, but I could not find a solution from these. I was worried that it relayed on the programming of the hub or a fried component in the PCB.
I searched and read all what I could find and nothing really helped me further until I found a explanation of how this particular type of throttle was actually working. Two neodymium magnets making a field that with the rotation of the lever led to a change in the distance between the magnets and the sensor... etc. etc. etc.
The throttle was actually working at some point and I did not suspect it at first. I got curios and disabled the throttle and found the magnets side-by-side holding hands instead of holding the needed distance and field - sweet but not acceptable 😅😅😅 Furthermore the sensor was loose too and one of its pins was almost close to breaking off, so it needed to be replaced.
Major success - I found the cause of its malfunction and was able to find a cheap replacement throttle for another system, but easy to modify when determining and comparing the wires and the pins of the sensor. Nice and easy, BUT that was the solution to the original problem.
The original throttle had a battery indicator with three LEDs and the new one has a LED digit. I tried to wire it up the same way as for the throttle and it worked very well too, but not for long. It suddenly lost the function when testing it. I can’t find out if the wires was shorted by mistake, if this relays on a simple programming or they just weren’t made for each other. It’s not a dealbreaker as it is not a necessary function in order to use it, but...
My inner perfectionist and my warm blooded need to fix things properly cannot just throw it back together and return it. It’s not good enough.
I need to give the whole wiring harness a nice brush up and cut of all the bad quick fixes made by the so-called electrician before returning it and I’m eager to find out if the battery indicator function can be fixed and now I am finally getting closer to the origin of my post, sorry guys 🤦😂
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I need your help to determine ALL the wires from the controller in the hub in order to ‘restore’ the programming connector and the functions that have been cut off. I have found some very nice wiring diagrams with extra explanations of what pin/plug goes to and so on, but it cannot help me map these from only the colors of the wires ??
I do not need the overview of the connectors, plugs and pins, since I have non of them. I do have a nice collection of high quality connectors and multi cables, so the final result will end up even better than the original.
Does anyone have a detailed wiring diagram with wiring colors and explanations? And maybe a hint to how/where I can connect a USB cable so that I’m able to connect the controller in the hub to a PC?
I have no insight I the complete Golden Motor catalogue and I cannot determine the type of the hub, the exact Magic Pie version/type from other posts/pictures etc., but I hope that some of you can help me further by looking at the pictures of the creature 🙏 I’m located in Denmark and these systems isn’t that common here, so you are my only hope 😀
I cannot upload pictures due to the size, so have a look at this link 👍
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1FUfDsB3_EFEIbVSU_f8LTh3IMuUbrvX1Regards,
Aron
