Author Topic: Questions about installing the Black Magic motor and external controller.  (Read 6669 times)

Offline Deedee

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Hello everyone, thank you for taking the time to read my post.
I am new here and I don't have any engineering background.

A couple questions if you could please help me out.

1. On the external controller (MX 25 V2.0) there is a thin red wire that connects pin G to pin S1. It is labeled power switch. In all the posts I have read, the red wire is spliced into the positive wire going into the battery. My question is, if I connect a switch to that wire, what does it disconnect? the controller from the motor? or the throttle from the controller?

2. Also, would a rocker switch work for the anti-theft alarm? or do I need a key switch like it says in the manual?

3. Which cycle analyst is compatible with the Black Magic motor? and are other brands of monitors compatible with the external controller?

4. I would like to add as many features to my bike as possible, this includes: horn, reverse, cruise control pedal assist and a headlight powered by my battery pack.
Which combination of switches and buttons do you recommend I should use for all these features. Right now I have a 3 button dashboard on my handlebars from G/M, with a rocker switch, an on/off button and a temporary-on button.
With another on/off button on the throttle.

I want the horn on the temporary-on button and the lights on the on/off button. Or is the horn just for malfunction warnings?

I think cruise control has to be on a temporary-on button too or else it will always be on right? So do I need to buy a separate button for the cruise control if I use the temporary-on button for the horn?
I obviously don't want the horn connected to a button I have to turn on then off, I would want the horn on a button that temporarily stays on while I push it.

Or can I use cruise control with a button that always stays on until I turn it off? This would defeat the purpose of cancelling the cruise control with the brakes right?

Thank you for reading my rant.
I appreciate any advice you all can give me.

-Deedee


« Last Edit: December 21, 2016, 09:33:21 PM by Deedee »

Offline Bikemad

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Re: Questions about installing the Black Magic motor and external controller.
« Reply #1 on: December 22, 2016, 12:32:34 AM »
Hi Deedee andto the forum.

1. The thin red wire simply disarms the controller and prevents the motor from running but the controller will still draw a small amount of power from the battery with this wire disconnected.

2. The manual for the external controller was written over seven years ago and the controllers have changed since then, and the antitheft function no longer works on newer controllers.
Many of the batteries come with their own key switch to turn the battery power on and off, therefore there is not  much point in having a separate switch on the thin red wire.

3. Speak to Gary (GM Canada) via his web chat or send him an email garysalo@goldenmotor.ca regarding the Cycle Analyst. I don't know what other monitors can be used with the external controller (apart from basic wattmeters).

4. The On/Off switch on the throttle unit is typically used to turn the light on and off, but as you have a dedicated light switch on the triple switch unit, the throttle switch could be rewired to select reverse instead.
You could then use the horn switch for the horn, the Light switch for the lights and the rocker switch could momentarily be flicked on and off again with your thumb to engage the cruise function when needed:



The cruise button should really be a momentary button (like a horn button) but I think the rocker switch should work as I've suggested.
Alternatively, you could probably replace the latching rocker switch with a momentary rocker switch like this:


You would need to select the "Black Momentary (On) OFF (I O)" option for the above switch (Click on the above image);)

Alan
 

Offline Deedee

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Re: Questions about installing the Black Magic motor and external controller.
« Reply #2 on: February 21, 2017, 12:05:22 PM »
Thank you so much for the information!
Sorry about the late reply, I wasn't expecting such a speedy reply.

I have decided to purchase the 2 button unit without the rocker switch and just use the on/off button on the throttle for my headlight and use the other on/off button for reverse on the 2 button unit with the momentary on/off switch for my cruise control.

I don't have too much background in wiring, but I was just wondering if it is pretty straightforward to connect the buttons to the various functions. The controller is already set up for those functions and it's pretty much plug and play right?

Also, I am having trouble finding the best way to wire my headlight to my battery pack.
I would like to solder the wires from my headlight directly into the on/off button on the throttle. The voltage running through the throttle is already stepped down right? I wouldn't have to buy a DC-DC converter?

Again thanks for the help!
-DeeDee


Offline Bikemad

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Re: Questions about installing the Black Magic motor and external controller.
« Reply #3 on: February 21, 2017, 11:20:05 PM »
I have never installed a GM external controller, so I am not sure how "plug'n'play" the connections on the harness are, but I presume they are clearly labeled on each of the plugs.

Regarding connecting your headlight, there is no stepped down voltage supply available for low voltage headlight use, as the switches normally switch full battery voltage directly from the battery (24V, 36V or 48V etc.) for use with high voltage LED headlight units. The +5V supply for the throttle Hall sensor would be overloaded if used to power a high power LED light unit.

If you are using a 5V usb powered or 8.4V LED headlight etc., you will need to fit a suitable DC-DC converter that can cope with your fully charged battery voltage, and can supply the required voltage and sufficient current for your particular headlight.

Cheaper DC-DC converters may not be able to supply much current if the voltage difference is high.
One was rated 60V 3A max, but the maximum output current was only 3/(input voltage - output voltage).
With a fully charged 48V battery the voltage is approx 54V, so that's 3/(54-5) = 3/49 = 0.061A or 61mA, but my USB powered LED headlight draws 1.73A or 1730mA!  ::)

Alan
 
« Last Edit: February 21, 2017, 11:22:29 PM by Bikemad »