One Bar, Bad reception ???

[Lewis Balentine]

The title is a bit misleading but if you tell someone that you only have "one bar" most folks think of mobile phones and the inevitable 'dead zones'. My 'dead zone' was my brand new Golden Motor 36 volt 12 Ahr flat pack battery when attached to my brand new Smart Pie Version 4 front wheel (700x35C). I also ordered the LCD display along with it and that is the item that was consistently showing "one bar".

This scenario started when I received the battery (it arrived several days before the motor). I plugged it in and charged it overnight. The next morning I had a green LED indicator on the charger so I assumed it was charged. Several days later I received the SP4 wheel, display, etc. First thing was to mount a new tire and tube. The tire is be installed in a specific rotational direction. There is NOTHING on the new SP4 to indicate the normal rotation direction. Looking at the hub the disk brake mounting is on one side and the cable is on the other. Logic dictates that the disk brake should be on the left side looking forward ---- however daddy taught me well, "NEVER ASSUME!".

It appears the only way to verify the rotation direction is to plug everything together and test it out. So I connect the main cable, brakes, switches and battery. Then I switch on the power and tap the throttle: NADA, NOTHING, ZIP, ZERO, NAUGHT. So says I, "Perhaps the brakes switches are engaged because they are not mounted." Thus I unplug everything other than the throttle, battery and of course the Smart Pie. Then I try the throttle again (surprisingly strong spring on that thing): no joy. Next I dig out the LCD display and plug it in: Error Code 4 "Low voltage". It appears that the battery has bled down in less than a week while totally disconnected. So I plugged in the charger overnight again.

The next morning I have a nice green charge indicator (looks just like it did when I plugged it in). So next I turn on the power and check LCD display: "ONE BAR". Then I note the RED LED on the "36 Volt" throttle! ---- however daddy taught me well, "NEVER PANIC!". So I dig out (dust off) the VOM meter and check the battery voltage: 42.8 Volts. Something smells of bad fish here. It is time to dig deeper.

Thus I started searching all the posts on this forum for a possible solution to my delima: http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?topic=5330.msg30521#msg30521

Fortunately I had ordered the programing cable as well.  Unfortunately I normally run Linux not Windoze but I do have a machine upstairs that has Vmware and a emergency copy of Windows 7 X64. Thus I haul everything upstairs and after an inordinate amount of configuration changes get the Golden Motors software running. Sure enough all the parameters are set for a 48 Volt battery. I changed the parameters to match those in the previous referenced post for 36 volts. Then I search for the save icon... there is not one but there is one that says UPLOAD. NO JOY: that got the original parameters back. The next time through I use the DOWNLOAD icon .... much better. I now have a Smart Pie programed for 36 volts and my "reception" is up to "FIVE BARS".      

There is however that nagging little RED LED on the throttle despite the clearly printed "36V" sticker. I guess that means that I need to order a replacement throttle (twist version this time).

Now at last I can determine the wheel rotation: facing forward the unused disk brake mount goes on the left and the cable side goes on the right.

I am still waiting for the torque arms to be delivered from the UK but hopefully I will get to try this thing out in a fews days.

One really nagging issue is left: Is there a Linux version of the GM software that I have not located ?

by the way: What is the purpose of the GRAY button on the throttle assembly?

[Bikemad]

Hi Lewis andto the forum.

Good to hear you have finally got to the bottom of the problem, and fortunately it was an easy fix.

Where in the UK are the Torque Arms coming from?

Unfortunately there is no GM software for Linux as yet, and I don't know whether anything is currently being developed for it either.

I'm puzzled by the "GRAY" button as all the throttles I've seen have always had red buttons, but the button on the throttle (regardless of its colour) is normally wired to switch a battery feed to the LED headlamp through the unused red wire on the control harness.



Alan
 

[Lewis Balentine]

They are coming from:
 Panda Bikes Ltd 
 109 Vernon House, Friar Lane, Nottingham, NG1 6DQ
 Phone: +44 7934 781551
 SMTP: sales@pandabikes.co.uk

I ordered a pair of the eyelet variety: http://www.torq-reaction.co.uk/eyelet-torque-arm/4588327090
These were selected because the stackup calculation for the exposed threads left a little 'wiggle' room.

Regards Linux software:
It all boils down to a simple serial connection so writing a linux based program only requires knowing the Golden Motors protocol. I am guessing that they have not been overly forthcoming with releasing documentation for that ... but them there are always serial port sniffers.

See the attached picture. It really looks gray to me. Also note the last LED.
Guess I should send a note to GM (David ??) so they can get a fresh pot of coffee for the QC people.

[Bikemad]

This is the thumb throttle that has been supplied by GM for many years now:



I guess they must have decided to update the design.

Although I have not seen that particular version of thumb throttle before, after looking at your photos I would say that the LED indicators are actually working correctly.

All three lights should be on when the battery is full, and they gradually go out (one at a time) as the voltage drops, when the last LED is the only one lit, it means the battery is almost empty.
Unfortunately the battery gauge on the old thumb throttle was designed for use with lead acid batteries, so it was never very good with the newer lithium batteries. Check out this post for more details.
It will be interesting to see whether your thumb throttle is any more accurate than the original ones.

Anyway, it looks like they don't need that pot of coffee after all.

Alan
 

[Lewis Balentine]

Note I started this test prior to getting your latest message:
"All three lights should be on when the battery is full, and they gradually go out (one at a time) as the voltage drops, when the last LED is the only one lit, it means the battery is almost empty."
The results are recorded here for posterity ....

I am laboring under the assumption that at full charge there should be three Green LEDs. Fully charged there are two green LEDs and one red LED. I would wager that like the Smart Pie the LEDs are configured for a 48 Volt battery (resistor network ??). I think I may have an UPS with four 12 Volt SLA's in it .... well with 52.8 volts it still shows two green LEDs and one red LED. So my basic assumption must be flawed.

"Unfortunately the battery gauge on the old thumb throttle was designed for use with lead acid batteries, so it was never very good with the newer lithium batteries."
I  had a car like that once. The fuel gage sat on full until the it was down to the last couple of gallons ... then it dropped like a stone. It is pretty much like running to close the barn doors as the horse is trotting through them (the horse is always quicker).

I"t will be interesting to see whether your thumb throttle is any more accurate than the original ones."
That will require some time to verify. Are the LCD display bars known for better accuracy ?

Now I need to go put the UPS back together.

[Lewis Balentine]

Finally got the Torque Arms in today.
They be too short. I can not win 

There are numerous other problems as well:
"C" clips and/or washers do not fit within the diameter of the lawyer lips.
Axle does not settle far enough into the dropouts (would require grinding drop out to proper depth).
Power/Control cable and dropouts overlap (interfere).
Apparently I am going to have to replace the bicycle.

[GM Canada]

You could always use better torque arms.

http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?topic=3090.msg18803#msg18803

http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?topic=4849.msg28309#msg28309

Gary

[Lewis Balentine]

That would only solve one of the problems. I think that it is time to cut my losses and get a more appropriate frame.

[Bikemad]

A different pair of forks might be an easier alternative to replacing the complete frame assembly.

Alan
 

[Lewis Balentine]

Ironically I am bidding on an ebay fork that would probably work. I was planning on using it to use it to make a "wheel trueing" fixture because it has brake bosses that I can attach dial gauges to. However I do not have access to the proper equipment for threading a new fork.

I was using this particular frame because it was cheap (I already have it). I am not really partial to the style. This one can go on craigslist if I do not screw it up.  I think that I would rather start of with a frame I prefer than heavily modifying the existing one.

[Lewis Balentine]

Problem solved: See the following thread

http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?topic=5598.msg31822#msg31822