New Project bike, Schwinn Grand 6.3 29er

[GM Canada]

Dropped into Canadian Tire today for a spare tube for my townie, Came out with this..



Crappy picture of a great looking bike. On sale for 549.00. That is 300 off. Can see better pictures on the website page here. 

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/5/SportsRec/BikesAccessories/BikesFullSuspension/PRD~0711072P/Schwinn+Grande+6.3%2C+29-in+Full-Suspension+Mountain+Bike.jsp?locale=en

So a 29er it is!

Gary

[TERA6]

Beauty, so I'll give you a week and a half and then we can all see it at Snug Harbour. What's it going to be, dual drive, CA III ?

Doug

[GM Canada]

I had no plans to buy this bike so I'm still deciding. Most likely a rear Smart Pie to start and take it from there. Time to sell off a few bikes the stable is getting crowded

I have been really enjoying the thun torque sensor ca3 combo on my townie and I have been thinking I need a bike that would be easier to pedal. I guess this could be it. The upright seating position of he townie is great for thumbing around with the throttle. But any long distance peddling at 32 kph and it seems like its not designed for that.

So when I say I had no plans to buy it, maybe I should clarify I was thinking about a 29er and stumbled across a good deal

I also need to keep the bike under 88 lbs so I can ride the bicycle paths in the progressive city of Mississauga and have the ability to easily pedal with the motor shut off when I enter the backward city of Toronto that considers Ebikes silent and deadly machines.

Gary

[GM Canada]

Ok Some Progress,

Here is the official before picture



Ok Flipped the bike and removed the pedals. Found out I needed a tool to remove the bottom bracket different then the one I have. So I took it to the local bike shop and had it removed for 10 bucks.



So now I have the THUN sensor installed.



I showed how to install the THUN sensor in this video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vy7yOZsyuU

Then I added a Spacer ring and 8 speed freewheel to one side of the pie and a disk brake to the other side. It Seemed to just fall into the rear dropouts without any effort at all. This side dropped in nice and deep.



This side not so much...



It seems like its riding out just a bit. But the steel plate there holds it in that position. I looked over the wheel and it seems straight. So I assume it's ok.

Now I decided to add torque arms. Probably don't need them on a rear Smart Pie set in the dropouts so well but I like them. I tried the Rear torque arm in the recommended position it hits the frame of the bike. Remember the bike is upside down.



The arms hits the frame. I actually have to add three washers so it does not make contact and now there is not enough threads showing for the nut.



The other side hits as well when using a rear torque arm.



So the rear torque arms go back in the drawer and I try the front torque arm on the rear wheel.



Seems a better fit so I used two front torque arms on the rear wheel.



And the other side is fine too...



Just goes to show you how sometimes you need fron torque arms on the rear of your bike. Stidy these photos before you decide. I have always had good luck with front torque arms on the front and rear of my bikes. Hers a a few pictures of other builds.

On my tandem..




On my 26 CCM mountain bike




None of these bikes would have worked with rear torque arms.

Gary

[GM Canada]

More Progress.

Since I always seem to like multiple batteries. I thought I would try something a little different. SO I went to my local metal fabrication friend and had a few things made.. First some of these.



There is always an issue with the standard racks and no where to attach it on a suspension frame so with two of these a little black paint and some hose clamps, voila!



What you are seeing is black electrical tape around the frame. The new piece painted black and attached with two hose clamps. I will have to get smaller hose clamps to make it look a little cleaner. Now I have a spot for the rack to attach cleanly that is still somewhat flexible. I added three washers in between everything so it flexes nicely.



There is the head of the bolt, a washer then the rack, another washer, then the new piece then another washer and a lock nut. I tightened it snugly then loosened it a quarter turn. Next I had some triangular pieces of aluminum added to the lower struts of the standard rack.


 
I Held the sliding battery plate against the rack and drilled three holes through. Then bolted the plates securely to each side.



Now when the batteries are slid on they are much lower then before and really lowering the center of gravity.



They are now about as low as most would hope for when they hang the battery in the frame.



I was so pleased with this I decided to see how low I can go with the batteries on my chopper as well. I drilled the same three holes on each side this time going as low as possible.



The chopper being a solid no suspension frame had mounts for the rack.



I also moved the batteries as far back as seemed possible.



I think it worked out pretty well.



The battery weight is now far lower then it was even when I was hanging a battery in the frame.

Gawd I love my bikes! I think I'll go hug them again before bed

Gary

[GM Canada]

This time I thought I would try something I have been thinking about for a while. Why not make this bike like a true European pedelec. In other words, no throttle and you have to peddle to make it go. If you stop pedalling then it stops.

This was actually a very simple thing to do. First I located the throttle signal input on the plug coming directly out of the MP3 in this diagram. The red dot in this picture is it.



Then I carefully inserted the green wire coming from the CA3 shunt into that hole. Sorry about the picture quality.



Then I taped it up good. Of course I realize this is not the best way to make a connection. But I am experimenting and a more reliable permanent connection can be made later.

Next I changed two settings in the CA3. I set the minimum throttle voltage in to zero so the CA3 is not looking for a throttle. Then set the minimum throttle out to .8 volts. That way the controller thinks a throttle does exist.

Now when I pedal the motor goes. When I don't pedal the motor stops.

Wow was that easy!

Gary

[GM Canada]

Bike fell over and rack broke!

Well I thought having aluminum plates added to the sides of the rack would make it strong enough to mount my batteries nice and low. Turns out that I actuall made a weak point in the rack right where the plates ended. My bike fell over in the grass and when the battery hit the gound it bent the rack in right when the plate ended.



So back to the drawing board. This time I had fulll sheets of aluminum wrapped right around the rack.



Plus small triangular plates down this inside of the rack to make the bottom as strong as possible. Just need to drill two new holes and paint it up again.



Mounted on the bike now it blends in pretty good and the batteries are really low this time. Sorry the picture is not so clear.



Please keep in mind this modification is not necessary if you are just mounting a battery on top of the rack. I'm doing this to experiment with getting two batteries as low as possible.

Gary

[GM Canada]

Quite often my projects end up the way they are from discussions I see it the forum. So here we go again!

I read somewhere that someone was thinking of a 902 mini motor on the front in a dual drive setup. This way the front motor freewheels with no resistance and when an extra boost is needed it can be engaged. So here we are looking at the front of my Schwinn 29er. I have a bag hanging from the frame deciding where to put the controller. I end up changing it to a different bag later.



This is a good chance to see how well a disk brake can mount on a 902 wheel.



Also if you notice I didn't have mounts for the front fender so I used parts from two rear toque arms to create mounting eyelets. Its a bit of an expensive fix but works well. Sometimes its too easy to just pull parts from inventory without considering the cost.



Next step is to transfer. the tire and tube from the old rim to the 902 wheel.



It amazes me that a 29er is just a 700c with a mountain bike style tire. Why do they have to make things so confusing.



Ok tire is swapped not to swap the disk.



Im quite impressed with the lock washers on the 902 and how snugly the fit in the forks. Also how they are tapered to fit perfectly in the layer lips on the fork.



First thing I notice when I start to tighten the wheel nuts is the disk is jammed against the fork and side of the brake caliper. You can even see it is bending.



So there is a black plastic spacer behind the disk. I have to take the wheel and disk off and remove it.



Now it is removed



Now its back on the bike. No longer bent and jammed on the fork. But it is still rubbing one side of the brake caliper. So looking down at the axle you can see there is a nut and two thin spacer washers.



Back to the drawer for a thicker washer.



So I swapped out one of the thin washers for a thicker one.



Voila! all though the you can see it that well in the picture the disk is now centered and the wheel spins freely.



Here is a YouTube video of a quick description of the bike and a test ride!

What an awesome ride!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tam51MdAnJ8



Gary

[BikeSlob]

What type of torque arm would I use for this Mt Bike dropouts? I'd hate to buy the wrong ones.