Smart pie motor broke down after two days - *FIXED*

[Bikemad]

Gary, the picture is of a front motor which does not have the outer fan assembly covering the controller.

Niklas, I think you may have inadvertently been trying to prise off the complete controller housing instead of just the cover assembly:



If this is the case, it might explain why it won't come off. 

Make sure you are actually trying to separate the cover assembly from the housing, as you should be able to see the joint line if you look carefully in the right place.



Alan
 

[rcnicke]

Thanks Gary, your post made me realize I was trying what Alan suggested.
Removing just the cover plate was really easy with a small screwdriver, and very light force/bending.
I will start separate threads for the issues encountered, where I think it may be of any use for others.

[thomab]

Hi,

I received my replacement controller the other day, and managed to fix my bike yesterday.
It is now running smoothly, I hope it lasts

To change the controller took some time, and it was a lot of back and forth, but easy enough. I'm unsure if the controller is still as watertight as it used the be,
since I had to re-assemble it a couple of times. Mainly because I thought I had screwed up since there was play on the bearings (see this post: http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?topic=4637.0), but apparently this is normal(?) and not something I had caused. I did not realize that until
I went on the forum.

I have attached a picture of the previous controller with wires attached, since someone requested that.

If you for any reason need access to your internal controller, you will have to cut a metal circlip that holds the control cable in place.
EDIT: You actually don't have to cut the circlip, see the post below

When you re-assemble the motor+controller on your bike, it is *very* important that you inspect that the control cable is not in contact with the "fan" housing.
This housing moves around with the wheel (the cable does not), and if there is contact the wheel will cut the insulation, which will give water an easy way in.
Even worse, it could short circuit the battery and probably ruin it.

If you know about it, you'll be fine, but it is quite an easy (and expensive) error to make.

Edit:
The new controller did not come with a plug for the battery. Luckily for me, I had not returned the old controller plug yet, so I had to cut it off from the old cable,
and solder it on to the new one.

[Bikemad]

If you for any reason need access to your internal controller, you will have to cut a metal wire that holds the control cable in place.

Thomas, you shouldn't have needed to cut the circlip as it just fits into two tiny holes in the axle. All you need to do is use a pair of pointed tweezers or a small thin flat blade screwdriver to gently ease out each end of the clip in turn:



Here is a picture showing the clip holding the cable nice and snug into the axle's recess, to keep it well away from the centre of the rotating cooling fan/disc mount assembly, as described by Thomas in the previous post:



Check out Gary's video at ~2:12 to see him removing the same clip from a Magic Pie III:


Anyway, I'm very pleased to hear that your Smart Pie is now working properly.

Alan
 

[thomab]

Thanks for the info, your pictures helps a lot to explain what I'm talking about.

I must have not understood that when removing the controller a few weeks back.
I've updated my post above.

[GM Canada]

Alan,

As usual your creativity in answering the simplest (or difficult) questions is remarkable. The words, photos and diagrams you reference or create on a whim  really are amazing. Second to none! I tip my hat again to you!

thomab,

I am surprised you did not receive a replacement kit with all the necessary screws, Oring and Clip. That is how they come on my site and how I send out replacements. I did not have all these parts at first but once I got my hands on them I send them around. Since GM China is the source for all these parts I am sure they have them.

Gary