Motor Stopped - High speed with it switched off

[benm]

Thanks for the posts.  It sounds like a new controller is the next step. It also sounds like installing a cut off switch may not be the answer, from what Oliver has said, its dangerous to cut the motor in or out while the bike is in motion.  The only reason I want to, is the amount of drag/resistance it placed on the downhills and flats while pedalling faster than the 20 or so kms/hr that the controller is set for.

Can anyone comment on the drag/resistance of the new Cruise controller?

[biohazardman]

Thanks for your detailed reply.  I'm new to electronics and quite interested in how it all works. 

After reading the two posts I did the quick check suggested by philf - always good to check and recheck the easy stuff first!  Unfortunately still no luck.

So, I re-read Oliver's post a couple of times, and my layman's understanding is basically the motor fed back power which blew up the controller!  (I assume the FETs are in the controller and not in the motor) - I'm not sure what FETs or flyback diodes look like - but would I notice black burn marks if they were blown, by looking at the controller circuit board?  Assuming I shouldn't expect to see anything obvious, everything about the theoy fits...

...which means my next step is a new controller. 

Once I get a new controller, it sounds like a cut off switch between the controller and the motor is the go.  Which wires would be the ones feeding back the power?  ie.  which wires would need the cut off switch?  the 3 heavy phase wires?  Would I need to worry about the 5 smaller ones (I think these are the hall sensors)

Any tips on best/quickest place to get a controller (I'm in Sydney, Australia)?

Thanks

Ben

These are likely the diodes spoken of.  They are cheap and did fix my problems.  I also turned my regen off untill I can get some batteries that will accept the charge a bit more readily.  Dewalts for me? ;^)


http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?topic=279.msg3696#msg3696

[e-lmer]

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